Shifting and idle issue

Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
21
I just had a 1989 2150 Bayliner Engine rebuilt. It is a 5.8 L OMC. I also had the lower shifter cable replaced because it was not going in reverse. Outside of the water it will go forward and reverse. I took it to the lake for the first time and it would not idol or go into reverse because it kept dying. It would go forward with throttle and go into neutral then die. I took it to the lake a second time and I adjusted the idol up and it went in reverse just fine and would not come out of reverse unless I turn off the engine. After this I tried going forward and it would not come out going forward unless I turned it off. The only thing I had adjusted was the idle rpm's and it went out of forward the first time it was at the lake so I thought I had it idling too high. I just did the idol back down and then the idol started acting really sporadic and I could not get it to go into reverse again, I just heard the clicking of the gears. I know this is really long, any thoughts on what is happening ?
 
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
21
OMC Shifting

I just had a 1989 2150 Bayliner Engine rebuilt. It is a 5.8 L OMC. I also had the lower shifter cable replaced. Why would it go into reverse once and very easily. But then only grinds after for reverse but still goes forward. It didn't want to come out of gear either.
 

jbetzelb

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
301
Search all of the posts on adjusting OMC shift cables. If it isnt adjusted perfectly it wont shift right.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,798
And if it goes into one gesr ok but grinds when shifting into the other, then it might be not getting equal travel in fwd & rev. That could be eithrr the transom shift cable adj or the remote cable adj.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,454
Very few people, including most boat mechanics, know how to properly adjust the cable. You definitely need the two OMC or aftermarket adjusting jigs to do it successfully. My suggestion is buy the tools, pull the drive and adjust properly.
 
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
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So I had my lower shift cable replaced and have had it back to the mechanic twice for shifting issues. the last time he told me that my shift cable had some slack going from the control box to the engine but he adjusted it as best as possible but it was maxed out. I just took it to the lake and it went right into reverse no problem. Drove it around for a bit and then it wouldn't go into reverse (I could hear the gears clicking). so I drove it around more and went right into reverse again and on and on.... I called the mechanic today and questioned him on if he had the Jig and proper tools for an OMC, he said yes. he is telling me the issue has to be the shift cable from the control box back to the engine. I think I can do this myself but want some Opinions, do we believe him? Please help. This boat will Kill Me.....
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
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he is telling me the issue has to be the shift cable from the control box back to the engine. I think I can do this myself but want some Opinions, do we believe him? Please help. This boat will Kill Me.....
That is very possible. I replaced a control for this very reason...too much lost motion in the control. The OMC Cobra is pretty finicky with how much throw it needs hence the need for the jig down at the drive to se the bellcrank angle.

Another thing you should nake sure of is that the shift cable from the control all the way to the stern is supported. If it is just flopping around, you will get lost motion from that too. I tie wrapped mine firmly to the steering cable.
 
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
21
Well I replaced the cable and made some adjustments on the water. Got it to start shifting every time in reverse but didnt want to come out of gear easily. After 10-15 times in reverse I thought I would try to make a small adjustment on the linkage to get it 100% and there went all progress. No more reverse. Gears just grind for reverse. Reverse was working at first 1000 rpm and had it down to 600-700 and gears grind now. If I shift by hand, it works
 
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
21
No Title

This isn't my engine but I have the exact linkage. I tried adjusting the very top right nut down to get more throw but then I lose my forward shift
 

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bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
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30,454
Like I said before, buy the tools, pull the drive and adjust properly. There are no shortcuts.

You didn't say if you used the adjustment tools when you replaced the cable. Did you?
 
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Messages
21
Ya I had a mechanic do the job and I have questioned him many times and he assures me that this was done with all the correct tools and jig..... now I did the control shift cable. Should the linkage adjustments really be that hard?
 

chiguy454

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 3, 2012
Messages
33
Bite the bullet and pay 35 bucks for the bell crank alignment and cable length adjustment tools on ebay. Go to this site and print these instructions out and laminate them. I can't stress to you how much pain and agony these tips will save you.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,798
Ya gotta do it right. I feared this adjustment for a long time but I had a good mechanic to do it for me. Then one day I decided it was time to learn. Got the 3 tools (one is the shift rod height gauge not 100% necessary but nice to have) and in 3 hrs or so had it done including pulling and re-installing the drive. Shifted even better than when the mechanic did it, and still does (this was about 4 years ago)....
​PS there are good updated instructions on midnight wolf's OMC parts site, print em out, more updated than Hastings......
 
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