Contemplating Outdrive Removal... To pull or not to pull, that is the question.

[stancalame]

The more I read this forum the more I realize the gold that is here. I thought after replacing my impeller and new prop that I would be good to go for a while. After reading some threads however; I notice that now when running at high RPM I hear a rythmic sound and am wondering if its gimbal or u joint. It only seems audible at high RPM and its like a " wowowowowowow" sound if that makes any sense. I dont think it changes frequency or volume during turns and I cant really detect at lower speeds but I have not really been listening. I have not tried to trim up and down and listen. I just thought sound was normal but now am beginning to wonder/worry about it. I have had the boat for three seasons; its been out of the water as much as in the water much of the time with motor issues. Motor was pulled twice, (once for piston replacement and one for main oil seal. Obviously since outdrive was not removed I have never check alignment nor do I have the tools to do so.

I now realize that pulling the outdrive is regular maintenance, I bought it used and not sure when last time it was pulled or inspected. The bellows looks good on outside but I have to believe not the original (1992 year model). I think the answer to my topic title is "when in doubt, pull it out" but just looking for some wisdom. Have a big weekend planned for memorial day with lots of folks. I hope Murphy's law does not prevail.

Any tips on what and how to listen for further diagnostics? I have minmal tools and keep the boat on lift or on trailer a rock driveway under cover at remote lake. Makeing outdrive stand for pulling may be difficult due to rocks. I suppose I could lay down sheet of ply to rolls the stand on. But there is no level ground.

Cant really afford to take to the shop to have this stuff done. Should I pull lower unit now or can I wait till end of season? I know you dont have a crystal ball. What would you do given my lack of tools and work space?

Look forward to your perspective.

 

[bruceb58]

I pull my drive every year. You have changed the gear oil right? That is also done every year and needs to be filled properly in your drive from the middle hole or you will wipe out your drive. Also, change all the o-rings/gaskets on the 3 plugs every time you change the gear oil

Check your gear oil every time you take it out.

U-joint bellows should be changed every 5 years. Store the drive in the down position saves your bellows and shift cable.

 

[bruceb58]

Forgot you have the King Cobra drive. Filling may be different than a standard Cobra.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Just the fact the motor's been pulled, Twice, 'n reinstalled, Without pullin' the drive says to me,......

Yer on borrowed time,.... The odds the alignment is Right, is somewhere 'tween slim, 'n None,....

If ya lack the tools, talent, 'n wherewithal,... Best advice I've got is, Sell it while it's runnin' Good,....

Then either buy a much newer boat, 'n service contract,... or buy the tools, 'n Learn the tricks, 'n necessary maintenance,...

Just get away from that OMC,....

 

[bruceb58]

I totally missed the part where the engine was removed without pulling the drive off. Hopefully the engine coupler is still in good shape. Not positive but I believe those King Cobra couplers are hard to come by and very expensive.

 

[Scotvl]

Great advice Bondo, plus nobody will take care of your boat like you will yourself if you have the patience and take your time.

 

[Scott Danforth]

You pulled the motor without pulling the drive....twice

Not only did you not read the manual, you did it the hard way....,twice

If your coupler survived, buy a lottery ticket

 

[stancalame]

Wow! now I'm really worried. I guess I'm learning the hard way. I certainly dont mind learning and can aquire necessary tools as I realize the alternative is much more expensive. I just dont have much boat experience.

At the lake, my neighbor is a retired mechanic, very experienced with just about every tool imaginable and can fix anything, (I thought) I beilieve him to be very good because he has a very active "driveway" business. However he is up in age and he's never suggested to check alignment. I would think he would know better. I dont think he is trying to set me up for future repairs but I suppose anything is possible. Perhaos he just didnt want to mess with it since last time I pulled it I was doing most the work myself.

I realize this falls on me and ignorance is no excuse. If I make it through the weekend then I'll be pulling unit immeadiately after these comments. How can I judge if the coupler is still good? Do I have to pull motor again? It was very tough last time with the equipment of my neighbor. If I'm thinking of the correct part, It looked like a giant rubber bushing in a metal housing.

I found the adults only section yesterday and found an bunch of good stuff. I clicked every link. I'll download the procedure for pulling the unit.
To answer some of the questions above, yes I changed gear oil in lower unit, no metal on drain plug, oil was black and not milky. Pumped a bunch of grease into gimbal zerk becuase I was not sure how much it required.

You read my mind on life of bellows and u joints, thank you. Bellows looke pretty good from the part I can acutally see. I've been watching tons of videos in anticipation of repairs, I didnt expect I'd need them as soon and some of you expect.

Any other common mistakes made by first timers related to pulling out drive? I suppose I could put done plywood and build the stand. My chalenge is that I always seem to be on short time when I work on it so I just need to accept I have to slow down and take my time and that its spend a little now or alot later.

Learning as I go, you guys have especially helpful.

 

[stancalame]

So I found this combo on ebay. Comes with alignment tool, bearing puller, donut and screw. I assume the donut is for driving in the new bearing. Will this work for me? What is the screw for?

Here is link : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-Bravo...bc66c&pid=100677&rk=10&rkt=14&sd=311144531809

How do I check my coupler for damage?

 

[stancalame]

So I found this combo on ebay. Comes with alignment tool, bearing puller, donut and screw. I assume the donut is for driving in the new bearing. Will this work for me? What is the screw for?

Here is link : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-Bravo...bc66c&pid=100677&rk=10&rkt=14&sd=311144531809

How do I check my coupler for damage?

 

[stancalame]

So, I have made significant progress. I bought a sevrvice manual, built sterndrive stand, pulled lower unit. When I broke the seal I speculate about maybe a couple cups of water came out of the lower drive. There was small amount of water in u joint bellows, see picture. Exhaust bellow was basically deteriorated. There was no gasket between the lower unit and pivot housing. There was grease in gimbal bearing from when I greased it recently, I rotated the bearing with my fingers and felt smooth with no catches or rough spots. Visual of coupler looked ok and looks likes it alight right down the middle but I will but the alignmwnt bar. I removed both bellows however I could not find any holes in the ujoint bellows so not sure how it got inthere unless the bellows was not cemented properly. Can water migrate to u joint bellows as result of the exhaust bellows being severly damaged. I'm having trouble understanding how it actually seals when lower unit is trimmed up.

Questions:

1) Do I need to sand and or paint the housing for the ujoint bellows so cement will stick? If so what kind of primer/paint?I assume I can find cement in this site.
2) Manual says to use gasket compound in several places, I assume I can use basic brown gasket selant in these applications?
3) Can I use marine grease for all applications for OMC Triple gaurd?
4) Seal aound shift cable looks to be in good shape. Do it need replaced if it looks good?
5) The water barb for the water intake does not look great but the parts list I found online indicates NLA. IF I cant replace it, what can I do to get it to seal besudes carefully clean off the scale.
6) I noticed last time I had boat out, that when I move shifter to neutral postition the drive does not shift into neutral sometimes. I have to shift slightly out of neutral detent towards reverse and then it comes out of gear. Is there something I should do before reassembling the drive? I notice that the shift cable connector in the pivot housing has torque on it as if its being turned clockwise as you look at it. I font know if this is a big deal or not. You'll notice the connector in the picture.

 

[stancalame]

anyone?

 

[bruceb58]

Wish I could help you more. I know pretty much zero about those cone clutch King Cobras.

The exhaust bellows will have nothing to do with water getting in the u-joint bellows.

 

[stancalame]

THanks Bruce, I'm assuming the water ingbress was due to poor sealing of bellows, it the only thing I can come up with. Can you or anyone comment on my other questions as I prepare to reinstall? This is my first time and I want to get it right. PLease take a look at the questions and offer any thoughts or guidance. Much appreciated.

 

[bruceb58]

It also can get in form inside the boat if water ever got high enough but that would be unlikely without taking out the gimbal bearing.

Make sure you get an OEM bellows if possible. Not sure if they are available still for King Cobras but they are the best quality.

 

[Lou C]

Like Bruce I have never worked on the Cone Clutch KC but I have owned a plain old dog clutch for about 15 years. So whatever advice I can give, is based on that.
​1) I would not paint the part of the gimble housing where the fwd end of the bellows clamps on, but I would carefully clean it, and use OMC gasket sealer when installing that end of the bellows, it says that in the shop manual. Also, there is a groove on the neck of the gimble housing and there is a ridge in the inner sealing surface of the bellows, that has to line up when you slide it on. The hose clamp should be in the 1:00 position.
​2) on the other end, the aft end of the bellows, snaps into a groove in the pivot housing, You should coat this groove with OMC triple guard grease (in the shop manual)
​3) before installing the drive, put the same grease on the nose of the bearing carrier that presses into the inner edge of the bellows, and also on that part of the bellows. This will help to keep water out.

hope that helps!

 

[stancalame]

Update:
Die to the very good help and advice. I aquired alignment bar and check alignment. Believe it or not, it was perfect! The motor has been pulled twice with out pulling outdrive. Gimball bearing is good and turns freely with no catches. U joints good. Waiting on parts then I'll put back together. I was also able to tear down my trim sender that is obsolete. Found water and corrosion so I cleaned it. I resealed it with 3M 5200 and will check it in a week. If it works I'll be stoked!

I hopre all goes back together ok. I anticipate a challenge with bellows and getting splined aligned but I think I can get it.

I found a youtube for a homemade tool to pull u joint bellows onto pivor housing, which I made for ~$5.

Thanks for all the help. Next jobe after this is new steering cable, mine is very sticky.