Those darn micro switches?

211libwtfo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
346
Four WInns offered the 454 with the Mercruiser Alpha and the FOMOCO 460 + King (dog-clutch) Kobra. Back then, the Alpha was the only game in town until the Bravo came out (the Alphas used were 1.36:1 ratio) and some didn't survive the additional HP and torque. The Bravo solved that.

I think the 241 and 261 were the same width (and wider than the 211 I think) . Even so, pretty tight in there with twin 460's!! Double Trouble nowadays of course .....

You don't see Liberators on the west coats much these days. My brother bought mine new in 87 in Las Vegas. They had a 261 that he drive but all he could think about was double the fuel burn!! With the 460, he could top out at 60mph using a 20p 3-blade running at 5000RPM

I don't think he ever tried a higher pitch prop.

I have 26p props on the 1.81:1 Bravo III and the best speed has been 57mph at 4600RPM (rev limited) But with the drive I currently have, I can just about beat most ski-boats out of the hole! They actually beat me by 1/2-1 boat length out of the hole, then I just ROCKET by them!!

Yea really got me thinking on a 25 pitch 4 bladed prop. I'm doubting 73 mph but....I've gotta 14 1/4 x 23 ballistic on now. Runs pretty good I can trim and tab it up pretty high prop wash starts before porpoiseing and a lil chinny as you've stated before. Prolly should jus run it like it is until the it's time to repower it. A buddy of mine has like 9k in a 509ci 495hp pretty nasty but more than I'm interested in. In a python
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Yea really got me thinking on a 25 pitch 4 bladed prop. I'm doubting 73 mph but....I've gotta 14 1/4 x 23 ballistic on now. Runs pretty good I can trim and tab it up pretty high prop wash starts before porpoiseing and a lil chinny as you've stated before. Prolly should jus run it like it is until the it's time to repower it. A buddy of mine has like 9k in a 509ci 495hp pretty nasty but more than I'm interested in. In a python
what ever you do, you'll have more in the boat than it's worth. I think I could part out my engine and drive and get more than I could for the boat all ready to go!...........

It's worth it if you want to keep it though. Because it's 30 years old, my boat registration is only about $25/yr and the insurance is pretty cheap.
 

211libwtfo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
346
Yes this boat has solid transom stringers floor hull and interior. It has a bunch of little gel coat cracks above the rub rail some scratches but nothing that bothers me. It's perfect for our family rides rough water like no other and can still get up and run with the big dogs. 241 might be more desirable but that's jus greenery. And I really enjoy this site and the convo here. I'll be apart of this for awhile as well.
 

211libwtfo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
346
Sounds like you're on the right path. The lower shift cable is the one that actually shifts the drive.via the shift actuator

There should NOT be enough force on the lower cable to cause the shift actuator (#37 below) to move far enough to actuate the switches when going into gear (or out of gear for that matter if the drive is being shifted out of gear with the boat sitting on the trailer.....this also means that you cannot test for actual correct shift actuator operation unless you test it in the water. )

When in the water, there is sufficient holding force due to torque on the shift dogs .....so that the ESA provided torque (reduction) pulses , will allow the shift dogs to separate when the shift actuator moves far enough to actuate the switches. and it will since you provide the extra pull (or push) to the cable coming out of gear.


As indicated above, if the lower cable or mechanism in the drive is binding even a little bit, it will take extra force to shift into (and out of) gear. THe extra force is usually enough to move the actuator enough to actuate the switches. If this is happening, you need to either replace the cable and/or clean up and /or lubricate the mechanism Bruce was talking aobut
89_58_zpscpplgcwh.jpg

Sooo as I was making a late night adjustment on my switch i noticed that part 37 is not moving like I think it should example when I I pull into rev 37 kinda moves but then goes back to its original position. What is the acting force that operates that. Cornfused.
 
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