Those darn micro switches?

bruceb58

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Start storing it in the down position. This is why your cable is having a problem after only 2 years.
 

211libwtfo

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That is a great tip that I've never considered or have been told about. Thanks
 

bruceb58

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The cable is in a more relaxed position when it is down. Also, way easier on your bellows. The only time mine is up is when it is being trailered down the road or I am beaching my boat.
 

bruceb58

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Are you just trying to show us that its stumbling still after you shift?

I never run my drive tilted up that high. Hard on the u-joints. Especially hard at higher RPMS.
 

211libwtfo

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And this is why I love this site. I've never run a boat this long on muffs. I've usually only ever lived a couple miles away from the ramp. And mostly outboards. Soo I'm just shortening my time for BBC and mercruiser or Volvo transformation. Thanks for the info.
 

211libwtfo

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And yea I've had a hard time posting pics and videos on here and figured it out finally. But yes this is the stumbling problem in reverse and so I would also imagine that I would be compounding the problem with the outdrive trimmed up like so.
 

HT32BSX115

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Your lower shift cable is likely binding. It shouldn't "stumble" at all going into or out of gear out of the water like that.
 

Lou C

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OK take another vid, I want to see what the shift linkage on the engine bracket looks like when you shift it. And for God's sake TAKE OFF THE PROP!!
For sure it sounded like the ESA was sticking on in reverse. With a properly functioning shift system, it should ONLY engage for a split second when you shift from in gear to N, you will hear and feel the rpms drop to about 450 and as soon as the drive goes into N it will come back up to 600.
 

Lou C

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Specfically we want to see what parts # 37 and 58 are doing. Both shifting into gear and into neutral.
 

211libwtfo

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I may go for a boat ride tomorrow but other than that I'm not fond of using the muffs. And it's hard to get a helper hand.
 

bruceb58

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Looking at it with the engine not running doesn't tell you anything.
 

Lou C

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OK can't tell about the ESA operation from this, but we can see that when your lower cable is moving rearward, the stroke is longer than when it moves forward. When you shift a dog clutch gearbox with the engine off, someone has to turn the prop shaft (no key in ignition!!) so that the sliding dog clutch actually engages both the fwd and rev gears. But just from this, you may not be getting equal throw in FWD and REV, which could be part of your problem, the rest being that the lower cable needs to be replaced if the ESA is engaging in gear. BTW, when you run the boat on the water hose on land, because there is no force on the prop that it would experience in the water, the ESA normally should not engage at all. The drive will come out of gear easily with a good cable in proper adjustment. In the water with the force of the water against the prop, holding it in gear, when you try to shift this puts pressure on the cable casing and that causes the load lever (part # 37) to flex engaging the ESA (part 58). When the lower cable moves forward, the drive should be in FWD, and the lever that triggers the ESA should be centered in the V notch of the load lever when the gear is fully engaged. When the lower cable moves rearward, the drive should be in REV and the lever that triggers the ESA should be in the center of the V notch of the load lever when reverse is fully engaged. Notice when yours goes into both gears, the lever of the ESA switch is not in the V notch when its fully in either FWD or REV. You have to do this again, with someone spinning the prop shaft to check full engagement.
 
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HT32BSX115

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https://goo.gl/photos/19sTmuGs1wriFQBk9 I understand it's not running but this is the video of forwards and reverse
Yeah. When you move the shifter, (and subsequently the lower shift cable) the effort to move the shift actuator AND shift interrupter [centering] spring #40) should prevent the actuator from moving up and down far enough to close the switch.

When the drive shift mechanism in the pivot housing also should not require enough effort to move that shift "plate" from center enough to operate the switch until you actually try to pull "torque-locked" shift-dogs apart. pushing them together shouldn't take enough force either (to actuate the ESA)

As the lower shift cable ages, it gets harder and harder to slide in the cable sheath This is why you don't want to try to lubricate it. Anything on (IN) the lower cable just makes it get "sticky" faster.

Any additional binding in the shift linkage (on the drive end of the cable) just adds to the force required to push or pull the cable.

One thing you might try to eliminate the cable (even 2 year old cables can be defective) Remove the drive and operate the shifter. That shift actuator shouldn't move at all. Then disconnect the cable at the engine and move it by hand. It should move very easily. (although with nothing connected to the cable it may move more easily than if it has to push something)

There's more on this system here http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/hints.html

Lou is "spot-on" on the Cobra . He probably has more experience and success troubleshooting & adjusting one of these than anyone here!

Your boat is an 88 but you could have one of the following models.

754BMLGDP 1988
754BPRGDP 1988

754APFTC 1987
754APSRC 1987
754BPFTC 1987
754BPSRC 1987

It would be good to have the correct OMC OEM manual if you don't (Seloc or Clymer won't cut it.....use them to start your wood-stove!!)

GO to http://epc.brp.com/ to look at parts diagrams etc.
 

211libwtfo

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As I was moving the throttle assembly from forward and reverse I could definitely feel more resistance than last year. I believe I'll jus be putting in a new lower shift cable. I think I can tackle the project if not I've got bail out options. I just need to track down a gasket kit cable. I would imagine there will be other things I'll find along the way to repair.
 

bruceb58

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You will need the 2 adjusting tools. I posted the link in #15.

If you can, use an OEM lower shift cable. They are more money but worth it.

Then store your drive in the down position.
 

211libwtfo

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That's for sure rick. But I'll definitely be looking for a power plant with a bit more POP than this 460 and something tuned up. I've wondered how a flat plane crank will do in a marine motor. They're getting high rpms outta those motors.
 
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