OMC 5.0 runs rough no power

[angler84]

1984 Angler sterndrive with 5.0 GM and OMC outdrive. New to forum. Bought last year, ran fine for 30 minutes, then stalling rough idle etc. Thought was bad fuel or low on fuel. Died, wouldn't start. Tried to restart off the water with water hook up. Burned up the starter. New marine starter. still wouldn't start. Would turn over but seemed like it wasn't getting any fuel. Flooded carb. Getting fuel! Read that sometimes ignition coil going bad and getting hot simulates running out of gas. New coil installed. Engine starts and runs but is very rough with no power. I think I may have damaged the points? Purchased electronic conversion kit #18-5299 from Sierra. I am about to install the electronic ignition, but it asks which direction the distributor turns. Clockwise or counter-clockwise? I have read that the GM's all are clockwise, but would like confirmation for the marine application. Not sure if this will fix my problem. Might also be a possible Ethanol fuel problem. I did top off the fuel tank with premium fuel and an ethanol treatment before putting the boat up. My questions; could I have damaged the points while continuing trying to start with a bad coil? Which direction does the distributor turn? Any good ways to treat for Ethanol to prevent issues down the road?

Thanks

 

[rs1lollie]

give it a good old tune up, points,cap ,rotor,plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, fuel water separator. then see how it runs and go from there...

 

[angler84]

Thanks rs1. the previous (and original) owner completed a full tune up before I purchased it, that I believe included all you mentioned. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel water separator myself after thinking it was a fuel problem. I'm hoping to get more than 30 minutes of use per tune up. My apologies for not including that information in my post.

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard.

first, with points, if the points are not opening/closing properly, it wont run. if the condensor burned out, the points will burn out after that. sometimes its because someone bypasses the ballast resistor, sometimes it simply happens, sometimes the PO will tell you things just to make the sale.

never ever buy something and not check it out yourself.

with a new to you boat, unless you watched new components being installed, the dwell properly set, etc. its good practice to perform every bit of maintenance on the boat to get a fresh start.

the list includes
new points and condensor
new rotor and cap
new wires and plugs
oil and filter change
raw water change
outdrive gear lube change
new fuel/water filter

and on your stringer, I would also inspect the lower shift cable, the transom bellows, the tilt motor and while you have the water pump out, inspect the vertical drive shaft splines (known failure point).

I personally wouldnt use a conversion kit as I have had every one of them fail (their instructions even tell you to keep the points handy for a backup)

back to your no start. start with the points. remove them, file them, reinstall them, set the dwell correctly, then adjust timing. and go from there.

 

[angler84]

Thanks Scott D. At this point, I don't think I can return the conversion kit (I purchased it last fall). I want to give the points a shot, just not as confident as I would like to be in setting the dwell, timing, etc. Any advice to a novice when it comes to working on the points?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Fold business card (or match book) in half as initial gap, use dwell meter to get to right dwell. The adjust timing

 

[angler84]

Filed points, sanded burnt spot off rotor button and cleaned burnt carbon spot off inside of distributor cap. Boat runs quite a bit better. Tune up kit ordered. Not sure if I created this mess by trying to start with a bad coil, but believe I have found my problem. Plan on performing the best tune up I can muster when the new parts arrive. Thanks to all for the tips.Will be following Scott D's advice and service the other parts..