1978 OMC 800, changed to electronic ignition, and changed shift cable nothing works

Lostgirl

Cadet
Joined
Aug 18, 2016
Messages
6
Okay guys I am totally fried on this project that was given to me. I grew up skiing behind this great old boat but my dad let it sit for 10 years then decided to give it to me with some modifications that were never tested just installed arrggg.
Start with the first, old Mallory ignition with points replaced with Mallory upgrade to electronic: I have been reading here that I may need to change out some other points just to get it to go in gear, which I found out my dad had defeated the switch(don't know where) that doesn't allow you start in gear which it does now(not good).
Second, had to tear down outdrive due to water pump no longer working and shift cable was shot so replaced it with new one:
the problem with this is I can no longer get it in gear with it hooked to the lower unit or not. Attaching a few pictures with some descriptions and maybe someone can see what I have done wrong. I have worked on engines but this is definitely more confusing than I thought and a lot more seals still need to be replaced due to it sitting for way to long.
PLEASE HELP ANYONE, EVEN A NUMBER TO CALL
 

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southkogs

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
14,796
Do you have a manual? If not, I suggest finding a good shop manual (most likely source will be eBay) and using it for this.

I don't know the mechanical shift, so I'm not much help. But the manual is a MUST for Stringer owners.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,478
First thing you do before doing something as drastic as replacing points with electronic ignition is get it running first on points. Did you do that?
 

Lostgirl

Cadet
Joined
Aug 18, 2016
Messages
6
Sorry I wasn't able to post this weekend, my phone crashed and no access to anything. Yes it ran previously just fine on points. The major issue I have after changing to electronic is it kills as soon as you put it into forward gear. I am thinking it has something to do with not having an ESA module but I haven't dealt with boats and this is definitely a lot different than a standard motor. I did finally find a manual, I had the Seloc one but it isn't much help especially with installing the cable.
 

THE BEEF

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 11, 2005
Messages
432
That electronic ignition might be the problem. With point ignition the the ESA module turns on as you shift,that would be the switch on the left side of the shift controller. The button on the switch will set in the middle of the notch. as you move the shifter that notch will move pushing the button and turning on the ESA. as the shifter moves the second switch on the left side which is normally closed will open turning off the ESA. this all happens in about a second. The ESA module is needed to help get it out of gear, if you don't have it KING KONG won't be able to pull it out of gear. I would go back to the point ignition and put the ESA module in.
If you need help with the shift cables PM me , I have a factory manual which tells how to do the cables.
Beef
 

THE BEEF

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 11, 2005
Messages
432
As for the neutral switch, It is up in the shifter control ,a micro switch. Dad probably pulled the wires off and connected them together. PM me and I'll give you my number to call , I saw the switches in the picture,are you sure it's a 1978 ? A 78 had a hydromech lower unit ,no switches he might have changed it to a full mech unit.I see in the picture you do have a ESA module. On the lower unit above the prop about 10 inches up is there a small square anode in the housing ? A full mech lower unit has one a hydro mech does not.
Just call me at 419 708-3231
 
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