cobra shift cable adjustment in progress I have a few quick questions

[ruggles]

I have adjusted the shift cable with the tools and have taken off the tools now. it is still disconnected on the engine side.

1) Do I mount the outdrive now before attaching the cable end to the engine side or do I attach it first?

2)The remote shift cable and throttle cable are still attached to the engine. Should those be off before I attach the drive and the shift cable? I have the directions but I am still a little confused. Can someone please clarify the order of steps for me? I need to get this thing together tonight if possible. It's 5pm here in Vancouver Canada. Thanks guys!!!

 

[Gary H NC]

I believe it will be fine to leave the control cables hooked up at the engine bracket and mount the drive.

 

[ruggles]

do I need to have the shift cable attached first or mount the drive and then attach the shift cable? Just wonder if it's going to throw off neutral or bind anywhere...

 

[HT32BSX115]

do I need to have the shift cable attached first or mount the drive and then attach the shift cable? Just wonder if it's going to throw off neutral or bind anywhere...

Take a look at http://boatinfo.no/lib/omc/manuals/1...nual.html#/480 (page 12-3) "Sterndrive unit Removal and Installation"

It indicates to place the shifter (and the drive) in NEUTRAL prior to installation. Seems the only way to do that would be to have all the cables connected....... I didn't see anything in the manual that indicated to leave them disconnected.

According to the above manual, he procedure indicated is for 1986-93 Cobras (and 88-95 King Cobras)

It might be a good idea to get yourself an OEM manual for your model.....

Regards,


Rick

 

[ruggles]

Well I did that and I still can't get forward and reverse to go into gear without grinding. I'm wondering if my remote cable doesn't have enough throw to get both gears engaged without grinding

 

[ruggles]

I should qualify my last statement. I can get either or to shift nice but not both at the same time. I used the tools as per the instructions and had neutral. Then I hooked up the cable to the shift bracket and tried it. I tried adjusting the remote cable but I still couldn't get both... I don't understand the 5 steps to set up the other cables after using the tools and that's what I think is screwing with me. If I unhook the shift cable at the engine and put the tool back on I should have neutral again right? Then I should be able to still fix it without dropping the leg again? Can anyone walk me through the steps in laymans terms? Otherwise I'll have to to have a grindy reverse for the 2 week holiday. Thanks guys!

 

[Thajeffski]

Did you adjust step #15 in this document? http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/sb4052_4.jpg This is the exact problem I was having... until I took the drive off and apart again, adjusted it correctly and put it back on. Was no problem after that.

Now my problem is the shift interrupter isnt working

 

[ruggles]

No I didn't but this is a new drive and it's the same problem as the last. It's in way better shape than my last leg. I know I missed some steps with the remote cable adjustments so I'll try that first. You have to separate the lower from the upper to adjust the rod height correct?

 

[THE BEEF]

If you have the controller like a stringer with the 2 micro switches this is how it works. The switch at the W is a Normally open held closed switch, Which means when pushed in voltage flows,released it stops. The 2nd switch is a normally closed held open which means in a position released voltage flows,pushed, it stops.
When shifting the switch at the W closes and turns the ESA module on causing the engine to stumble and allows it to go in and out of gear easily.
When you shift in to gear the W switch closes making the engine stumble, as you move the shifter the 2nd switch called the over-stroke switch moves and gets pushed in opening the circuit and stopping the EAS module from staying on allowing the engine to run smooth.
Check both switches wit a ohm meter if good go down to were they plug in together, unplug and check for corrosion, spray some WD40 on both connection and reconnect. If you shift into gear and the engine still stumbles look at the switch (over stroke one) on the left side and see if it is being pushed by the white adjustable actuator. There are screws you loosen and move the actuator to make it actuate, opening the EAS circuit.

 

[THE BEEF]

This is for the interrupter problem .

 

[ruggles]

I have a cobra not a stringer. Thanks for the info though. I am not having an esa issue. I know I screwed up the remote cable adjustments after I put the leg back on. I'm going to put the tool back on the cable to get proper neutral and give it a go in a couple weeks when I get back to my boat. It's in a different town. If it still doesn't work I'm selling the boat and getting another one with a volvo penta or a mercruiser. I love the boat (1991 Mariah MX-19) but it needs interior and if the leg is going to give me problems all of the time it's not worth putting any money into it. Lesson learned lol

 

[Thajeffski]

No I didn't but this is a new drive and it's the same problem as the last. It's in way better shape than my last leg. I know I missed some steps with the remote cable adjustments so I'll try that first. You have to separate the lower from the upper to adjust the rod height correct?

Mine was also a new drive. They did not adjust it correctly from the factory! Yes, unfort. it does have to be seperated to do it correctly. If you can't get it to engage by manually pulling on the intermediate shift cable, this is your problem.

 

[ruggles]

Mine was also a new drive. They did not adjust it correctly from the factory! Yes, unfort. it does have to be seperated to do it correctly. If you can't get it to engage by manually pulling on the intermediate shift cable, this is your problem.

Fair enough. thank you for the info. I'll try to readjust the cables after resetting the shift cable with the jig. If that doesn't work I'll decide whether I want to dump anymore time and money into the boat or just cut my losses.

 

[Thajeffski]

I must have had the drive off and on 8 times before I realized what the problem was.. months of work, talk about frustrating.

 

[ruggles]

No sh*t! Next time I'll make sure its a merc or Volvo

 

[Thajeffski]

No sh*t! Next time I'll make sure its a merc or Volvo

I do have to say... after working it all out and giving the final push of taking the entire thing apart one last time, adjusting the shift rod height, buying more drive oil, filling it back up AGAIN and putting the whole damn thing back together... it does shift INTO gear like a dream and while it's running, it's perfectly smooth and nice. A TON of work, but in the end it paid off. ( I should note that I haven't fixed it going into neutral yet, which appears to be an easy fix..)