Another Foamy Oil Question

[phenicie]

I have been researching and can not find a problem that resembles mine exactly. So i figured i would post.

1989 Sunbird Corsair 195
OMC 3.0L 4cyl
OMC Cobra Outdrive

I winterized my boat two years ago, and it sat all last year, never started once. I have since found my winterization techniques are not the best. First i chaged the oil and the filter. Then I pulled the water hoses on the engine, and then I puled the petcocks on the block. I then used muffs and antifreeze to introduce AF into the raw water system. Next I fogged the engine through the carburetor. At the end, I used the the fogger to kill the engine. Lastly i sprayed the fogger in the spark plug holes. I drained the out drive completely, and now i filled in this year before i started it.


That is the background, Now heres my problem... I started the boat, and started getting milkshake out of the valve cover breather (the hose that goes to the spark aresstor)

I shut it down immediate and pulled the dipstick. The stick showed WAY over full with the same consistency of a milkshake.

I drained the oil; I would estimate about 10 quarts of fluid came out of the pan.

I replaced the oil, and started. Let run for ~20 mins on muffs. The consistency was milky, not nearly as bad, but still far from good.

I replaced the oil and filter again, Ran for ~30 mins on muffs and the oil looks fine....

Every time I started, it appeared to be running fine

I can not understand or explain what is going on!? I do not have the tools or access to the tools to do a compression test, or leak down test. Every marina around me will not touch the boat because it is an OMC.

Whats my next steps? Any recommendations or thoughts are appreciated. Sorry for being long winded

 

[alldodge]

Howdy

Is the motor overheating any?

 

[phenicie]

No I had kept an eye on the gauge and never went above half way, normal temperature from my experience

As mentioned the boat ran about 30 minutes, and within that 30 minutes i did bring the RPM's up to about 3k for short intervals a few times. (i was nervous to push it in case there was an issue)

 

[alldodge]

Have to agree this is weird. To drain about 10 quarts one time and then after a few changes it clears up. Only thing I can thing of that may have caused it, is when the anti freeze was poured in , some how it went into the block. How I have :noidea: but nothing else makes any since to me

 

[bruceb58]

It is weird. To be sure you don't have a cracked block, do a pressure test on it.

Next time, fog the engine, drain the block and manifold and then either leave it or add your antifreeze through the thermostat housing.

 

[phenicie]

Ok, just to be clear, pressure testing the block is The same as a leak down test ( add air pressure through spark plug port, and see how much air pressure is lost ) , correct?

Maybe you could also clarify, if that test would come back bad, it could be the block, head gasket, manifold gasket, or a manifold correct?

 

[alldodge]

Ok, just to be clear, pressure testing the block is The same as a leak down test ( add air pressure through spark plug port, and see how much air pressure is lost ) , correct?

Maybe you could also clarify, if that test would come back bad, it could be the block, head gasket, manifold gasket, or a manifold correct?

No, pressure testing the block, you apply pressure to the cooling system only. There should be a hose which goes from the thermostat housing to the intake/exhaust manifold. Remove from the intake and plug it. Remove the hose which comes from the outdrive to the thermostat housing. Apply 15 pounds pressure to the thermostat housing and see if it holds or you hear a leak.

 

[phenicie]

Thanks, I will start with that. This seems to be the cheapest test anyways

 

[HT32BSX115]

Maybe you could also clarify, if that test would come back bad, it could be the block, head gasket, manifold gasket, or a manifold correct?

Yes.

It could be any of those components leaking (cracked etc)

Sometimes there's cracks on the outside of the block (usually up under the manifold ) but internal cracks cause loss of cooling water into the crankcase.

Treat the block like an air tank with multiple openings. close them all off using whatever plumbing fittings you can scrounge (plastic or metal) connect a 0-30 psi gage to one of them and a valve and air connection to another. (or put the gage on the block side of the valve so you can read pressure when the valve is off)

Here's a manifold I just pressure tested holding 15 psi.

I just used old plumbing fittings, valve, a gage and pipe I had in the junkbox.

Below, you can see the manifold + 3" extension. I put the used thin stainless steel blocking plate + a home made gasket to seal under the extension.

Here you can see the pipe, valve, gage and air connection on the manifold. After pumping the manifold to 15psi, I closed the valve.

After an hour or so, I decided the manifold held air!

I had everything I needed EXCEPT a close-in 3/4" NPT nipple! (hence the LONG piece of 3/4" pipe!!) cooling water goes into a BBC manifold via a 3/4" NPT opening. (I guess if I was going to do this all the time, I would get a 3/4" to 1/8" bushing, and make it all look "pretty". )

You also should use T-tape or pipe "dope" to seal the connections. You don't want them leaking!

At the bottom, you can see the brass air quick-disconnect!

Do the block just like above. you'll have a couple more openings to close off but it's the same principle.

Cheers,

Rick

 

[phenicie]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to start with the block, and move to the manifold if need be.