prop/engine issues

cowboys2287

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Jan 26, 2016
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7
hey all, new to the forum but i imagine ill be spending quick a bit of time on here. i recently purchased a 1989 spectrum 1950. Its a inboard/outboard with a cobra lower unit. I bought this boat for penny's on the dollars knowing it would need alot of work. (this is what i set out for lol). so little history on the boat. A gentleman bought this boat brand new in 89. He pasted in 2003, than it sat with no cover on boat. causing the boat to rot. the gentlemen i bought it off had it given to him 4 years ago. at that time he did start the engine and he stated it ran. so spend up to recently when i bought it. i pulled it to my barn and started to tear the interior apart. i did this more so i didn't have to walk on rotten floors and make it easier to trace wires. im starting with getting motor and trim/outboard to function properly than moving onto the interior. but truthfully i have little experience with repairing/rebuilding boats. ( Im very handy, done construction my whole life so really not worried about interior) where i lack knowledge at is on the engines. heres where im at on that. i go to start the boat and i hear a click. Now i know i need to start with the starter and solenoid. (which i am going to test voltage tonight when i go back to work on the boat) my main concern is the prop does spin at all in neutral. ive never had to repair or fix this issues so im looking for a little insight of what to look for. now im thinking two things could be happenings. 1. something is really wrong lol or 2. things are just stiff from sitting for 13years. any help/insight would be greatly appreciated.
 

southkogs

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Jul 7, 2010
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14,792
Welcome aboard:

13 years of sittin' you could have a locked up drive. Not necessarily, but could be. In neutral the prop (I believe) should spin. Have you looked at the lube in the stern drive? If you get a lot of water, then that's a good indication you've got a problem. You may want to remove the drive and see if the engine will get going easily.

OMC has been gone for a while. You can find parts most of the time, but before you put a ton of blood, sweat and tears into her - there's a reasonable chance you could part it out, save up a few extra bucks and buy something more lake ready cheaper than you can rehab this boat. If the hull is in real bad shape, it may not really be worth fixin' the drive.

Got any photos?
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
I bought this boat for penny's on the dollars knowing it would need alot of work.

Howdy,

Welcome aboard!

Pennies on the dollars could still be too much! Any boat with all interior and underfloor wood rotted and possibly the transom rotted gives the boat negative value.

Your best bet (if the engine and drive are even remotely salvageable) might be to part it out, cut up the hull and use the money you get to find something else.

Even "FREE" boats can turn out to "cost" more than just buying something already usable.


Good luck!


Rick
 

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,476
Don't do any work on the boat itself until you are confident you don't have to spend money on the drive. Even in gear, the prop should still spin in one direction. If forward, it should spin clockwise and opposite for reverse. You should hear a ratcheting sound in the direction it spins.

Like Rick said, even a FREE boat is overpriced sometimes.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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47,494
the most expensive boats in the world are free.

based on the description in the post, you may need to scrap the boat, sell the trailer and find a different boat.
 

cowboys2287

Cadet
Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Messages
7
I really appreciate all the responses. So here's where I'm at. I removed the engine today, tore the engine apart. There was absolutely no rust in the interior of motor. I removed all pistons, shaft. Im honestly not completely sure what "locked" it up. Nothing came off easy due to it sitting so long. What I found was the piston rings where extremely lose and need replaced. There was no discolor waiting pistons or block. No Crack. Once removing motor prop does spin good. I'm now trying to find new seals for pistons. Anyone know where I could find these..?
 

cowboys2287

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Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Messages
7
Also as far as the starting issue, solenoid tested fine, issue was with starter, pulled it found due to rust nothing was making contacts within the starter. It's now been replaced. Also all electrical works properly, tilt/trim working perfect. Only thing left is to replace piston rings, put oil in, replace all seals, tune it up. And replace boat floors. Hull is in perfect shape. I'm also replacing trailer lights to led. Painting the upper boat and trailer.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
No Crack.
You pressure checked the block before you removed the heads?

If you did NOT, and the boat has been located where freezing temperatures occur, you will need to pressure check the block after you put it back together or just observe the oil for evidence of water intrusion. It's usually not possible to visually detect block cracks internally.

I'm now trying to find new seals for pistons. Anyone know where I could find these..?
You mean rings? Just about any autoparts store will be able to get them. You should measure the bore diameter for all cyls to see if they are in limits..........
 

cowboys2287

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Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Messages
7
You pressure checked the block before you removed the heads?

If you did NOT, and the boat has been located where freezing temperatures occur, you will need to pressure check the block after you put it back together or just observe the oil for evidence of water intrusion. It's usually not possible to visually detect block cracks internally.

You mean rings? Just about any autoparts store will be able to get them. You should measure the bore diameter for all cyls to see if they are in limits..........

I did not pressure test due to engine being locked up. I will pressure test everything once back together. Yes sorry rings not seals. How do I post pictures on here so I can share what I've been seeing and doing? (tried uploading with a reply but it wouldn't let me)
 
Last edited:

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
I did not pressure test due to engine being locked up. I will pressure test everything once back together. Yes sorry rings not seals. How do I post pictures on here so I can share what I've been seeing and doing? (tried uploading with a reply but it wouldn't let me)

I suppose you know then that if you pressure test after assembly and find the block leaking, you'll be tearing it back down to replace the block.

An easy way to post pictures is by using a (free) photo hosting site like Photobucket or other hosting site.

You can also have a look at the following thread.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum-rules-and-guidelines/9938375-photo-upload-tutorial
 

cowboys2287

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Jan 26, 2016
Messages
7
Update time

Thank you all for your help and guidance. I had the block tested at a machine shop. Everything tested fine. They honed it and are replacing bushings . Should have it back next week and am going to start rebuilding motor. I'm going to paint block and head ford blue. Also installing chrome headers and valve covers. Just going to dress it up. Also going to be replacing cap, wires plugs freeze plugs ect. Than moving onto the interior of boat. I have wood picked up. Where's the best place to get black Marine Carpet? Also need to replace rubber bumper that goes around the boat. (I'm also having a tough time finding this). I'm rebuilding both consoles, polishing the black dashes. Tinting the glass window. Adding a 6 speaker stereo with 2 subs. Installing lighting around boat and under trailer. I want to do a wrap on the boat. (anyone ordered one online that could refer me to a good place?).. Sorry I know I listed a lot of things but figured if one of you guys have done one or several of the things I listed, you might have advise to give me before buying something that won't work
 

cowboys2287

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Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Messages
7
sorry forgot i was still posting within engine forum. but while this post is still up, does anyone know where i can find the manual for this motor. im looking for specs for motor as im putting motor back together this week. need to know positioning of piston rings and what order they are firing in.
 

bajaunderground

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Apr 18, 2008
Messages
1,401
Cowboy...

You're about 6 weeks ahead of yourself...take the time and heed the advice that was given...while dreaming about being on the water is what drives a lot of us, our pocket books and common sense is what keeps things real!

DO NOT spend a penny on cosmetics (stereo, wrap, carpet) until you have the Hull, Engine, Drive addressed and figured out...the collective "WE" have seen too many people get to a point of frustration and just plain stop before the craft is even seaworthy. Take a breath and get thru each milestone...

Good Luck and a picture speaks a thousand words!

~Brett
 

bajaunderground

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Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
1,401
sorry forgot i was still posting within engine forum. but while this post is still up, does anyone know where i can find the manual for this motor. im looking for specs for motor as im putting motor back together this week. need to know positioning of piston rings and what order they are firing in.
Manuals...

boatinfo.us/lib/library.html#
 

Silvertip

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Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
The piston rings don't have a firing order -- the cylinders do however. You said you were painting the engine "Ford Blue". Have you determined if this is a Ford or GM engine? Ford has the distributor in front, GM in back. GM firing order on small blocks is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The ring set will have instructions on how to install them. You mentioned "bushings" that the machine shop was replacing. And those "bushings" would be where???? Or do you mean rod and main bearings? For an engine manual trot over to your local library and check out a Chiltons manual for Ford or Chevy depending on which engine you have. It will save you time and help avoid costly mistakes during the assembly. If you have a GM engine, don't forget to clean the head bolth threads and then apply sealer to them when assembling the heads. Bolt holes go into the water jacket and without sealant you will be doing the job again. Read and understand how to adjust hydraulic valve lifters.
 
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