Another leaking transom thread

[candiaoh]

1990 Four Winns Candia 180, Cobra 4.3

After 2 yrs out of the water, I decided this summer it was going back in. Early struggles included bad gas and a dirty carb along with bad shift cable and suspect bellows (exhaust was ripped). I had the tank pumped, the carb serviced, and the shift cable and bellows done. My long term goal was to compound the exterior and replace some stained/ripped seat covers.

Then came the water. I noticed the bilge pump running for about 30 seconds after a WOT run on the water. Does not seem to leak when tied off in a slip. I pulled it on to the trailer and while still on the ramp (in the water) let it run in gear. It appear to be getting a leak at the top corner below the shift cable. Now, I had gone through the seven stages of grief regarding an impending transom replacement, but I thought I would post it here for further consideration. I had the drive serviced- bellows and shift cable (no water tube) as well as a new impeller but started to think that one of those could be the issue? The shift cable sits above the waterline, so I doubt it would be the culprit. Here's the thing...I have not observed it, but water intrusion seems to increase considerably with speed. I've not done the screw driver test to the transom, but I have given the drive a considerable tug and no flexing. I also (don't hate on me) caulked with 5200 any on the drive below the water line. Still have the same leak.

Any thoughts or am I just kidding myself and should be prepared to do a transom.?

 

[Idlespeedonly]

The power steering cooler is in that area. It may be busted.
Probably not the transom. It would leak sitting still but nut on plane.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Then came the water. I noticed the bilge pump running for about 30 seconds after a WOT run on the water. Does not seem to leak when tied off in a slip. .......................
Any thoughts or am I just kidding myself and should be prepared to do a transom.?

If it's NOT leaking at the dock but is leaking when on a plane or at above planing speeds, it's likely NOT the transom. The water doesn't touch the transom mount when you're up on a plane.


You're really going to have to get back there with a mirror and a flashlight and have someone run the boat while you look for the leak.

It's sounding like the leak is coming from the raw water supply line that comes in through the transom mount.

 

[Lou C]

Other culprirts could be the seal at the bottom of the exhaust Y pipe or the tube that the shift cable is routed through.

 

[candiaoh]

Thanks all. I am going to take your comments and try and see if I can better diagnose the issue and post back. If its the raw water hose, I am going to kick myself and the guy that did my bellows and shift cable service because he said in his 20 years of servicing OMC he has not seen a water hose go bad.

 

[southkogs]

... make sure you don't have a water drain valve on the block open. If everything seems water tight, and the boat had been sitting up for a while, the valve may have been left open and not shut when you put her on the water.

- signed, your friend "voice of experience."

 

[candiaoh]

Well, good news, kind of. My 'leak" was coming from my power steering cooler. I observed it spewing water and increased as the motor speed increased. It was leaking from the "cone" of the down stream side, that eventually blew completely off (another tow in). My question is can I use a cold solder like JB weld to repair it, or is it a lost cause and just replace it?

 

[bruceb58]

See if a radiator shop can repair it.

 

[Offrddrver]

Candiaoh,

I agree with Bruce on this.

However, if you know how to pipe weld (soldering), my dad repaired his solder joint failure with standard pipe welding techniques. He said it has held for more then 5 years now.
He noted to clean away the paint real well around the failure.
He noted to evenly heat the broken side with a torch until it pulls apart (in your case it sounds like it came apart already).
Then he noted to focus heavily on cleaning the old parts (old solder, old paint, corrosion). Very important so new solder will hold.
Flux and solder the fittings then pressure test with water or air after it is cool.
Paint as you see fit.

Just to note he has been doing construction, plumbing, welding and such all his life.
Only point here is "if you know pipe welding/soldering" then go for it. If you like DIY work.
And of coarse it depends if your solder joint failed, or if the part broke/split....big difference.

The other choice is aftermarket, to be around $270.00 (quick look). One site has 9 in stock. (I'm sure you could find it cheaper with more searching of the web.)

Again, if you don't know pipe work, welding/soldering, then go with Bruce's suggestion for repair at a local shop.

Have a good one.

Offrddrver

 

[candiaoh]

Thanks- no, I don't know how to solder. I am a DIY'er, but soldering has never been my forte. I'll try and go down this week and extract it. Maybe take it to a muffler shop or replace it....I did not realize they were $270! Still though, better problem to have than a transom!

 

[Offrddrver]

As noted, you may find it cheaper at other web sites. The $270.00 price is just from the web site that I go to when getting part number information.
That site has very easy to locate parts break down drawings by year and by OMC model number. I can usually find what I (others) want in under two minutes at that site.
I use it as a reference price only, and to be very honest, I've always beat their prices.

As Bruce noted, try a radiator shop as they may be better suited to weld/solder that material.
I'm a true DIY guy also, so always best to know our limits.

Best of luck.

Offrddrver

 

[Offrddrver]

No Title

Here is the breakdown and part number if you need it for further review.
This is pulled from a 1990 4.3L break down drawing. (multiple model numbers have the same listing)
Take a look and make sure it looks like your cooler.

 

[Offrddrver]

My 1992 5.0 has a different break down drawing, but shows the same replacement part.
I see in the drawing that one of the "down pipes" on your unit is strait and one is 90deg.
On my drawing both "down pipes" are 90deg.
Part shown has both 90deg down pipes and an added drain plug.
End pipes are strait on both drawings and part picture.

Offrddrver

 

[candiaoh]

Thanks- I am going to pull it this weekend and either repair or replace. I'd like to have it ready and take it for one more spin on Labor Day before I pull it out to do some off-season cosmetic upgrades.

 

[candiaoh]

I contacted a local welding shop that can solder brass- he said likely silver solder and quoted $25 over the phone. I removed the cooler from the four winns yesterday. Ended-up picking out parts of a long lost impeller.

Looks like it uses ATF as fluid? I've changed P/S fluid on a truck before, but not a boat. On a car you jack up the front and turn the wheel lock to lock to bleed out the air, is it the same for the boat. Just concerned about the mess it could make in the bilge.

 

[Bondo]

is it the same for the boat.

Ayuh,.... Same deal,....

 

[wire2]

Silver solder is far stronger than soft (tin/lead) solder. But if it was manufactured with soft solder originally, silver solder won't bond over it until you remove all traces of it (silvery coating).

Either ATF, PS fluid or any hydraulic oil (e.g. Shell tellus 32) will work but it's best to use the same as what's in there now, rather than mix. The pump will have a hi pressure outlet, to the valving on the steering assembly, to the cylinder, to the cooler, and back to the reservoir, often on the pump. Air will usually be pushed back to the reservoir by the circulating oil when you drive normally.

 

[Scott Danforth]

depending which one of the 4 heat exchanger manufacturers originally made the cooler, while it may be possible it was silver soldered, however was most likely lead/tin solder or brazed.

generally if the end caps are castings it was most likely brazed. if the end caps are spun copper, it was most likely soldered.

 

[candiaoh]

I mis-spoke when I said brass, it was actually copper. The welder is going to clean-up the fittings and use silver solder to seal.

Wire2- Are you say the air will bleed itself automatically so I do not have to bleed it?

 

[Bondo]

he air will bleed itself automatically so I do not have to bleed it?

Ayuh,.... The Best way to purge the system is to fill it, 'n turn the wheel lock to lock several times, with the motor, Off,....