Re: Painting a 1971 9.5hp Evinrude
You do need to prime any bare spots. Basically, the procedure is this:<br /><br />Degrease & clean the outboard. Mask off any thing you don't want paint on. (Propshaft, engine parts, handles, etc)<br /><br />Scuff up the existing paint with sandpaper ~220 grit. Sanding sponges work great over the curves. I always use water to keep the sponge from clogging. The idea here is to make the old paint recieve the new paint well. The factory paint is about the best foundation you can get for your new paint, so try not to go through it.<br /><br />Sand any bare spots until you reach shiny metal (~100 grit & finish with 220).<br /><br />Wash the bare spots with a 50/50 mix of vinager and water. This etches & converts the fresh aluminium.<br /><br />Prime the bare spots with Zinc Chromate or Zinc Phosphate primer. This is an anti-corrosion aluminium primer you'll find available from most outboard dealers & marinas. Zinc Chromate is superior, but may not be available due to the nasty health side effects. Read the can.<br /><br />You may use an epoxy primer suited for aluminium instead if you don't think corrosion will be a big issue.<br /><br />Blend the overspray of the primer with the paint so you don't notice the edges (I mean, the transition from old outboard paint to oversprayed primer).<br /><br />Paint the outboard. More light coats work out better than heavy coats. Most paints will have a "no sand time". This means you can add a second coat without sanding as long as the paint has only partially cured. Usually this period is an hour or two after spraying. Check the can.<br /><br />Hope that helps. Good luck & post pictures when you're done!
