Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Mark42

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The few times I have changed the prop, removing and installing a cotterpin has always been a problem. The problem being there is precious little space to work the cotterpin in and out. Especially out, because it has been bent and getting it back to near straight is near impossible.<br /><br />I have worked on my boat while it is beached and I can say it is not easy because of the waves moving it around. Trying to change the prop in this situation would be darn hard.<br /><br />So I was thinking that I should replace the stainless steel cotter pin with a stainless steel bolt and locking nut or pal nuts. This would make removing the prop one heck of a lot easier.<br /><br />Anyone made this change already?<br /><br />Mark.
 

Dhadley

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Feb 4, 2001
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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Which nut are you using now? The castle nut or a standard nut with that piece that that fits over it that the pin goes thru?<br /><br />We assume we're talking about your 40 E-rude....
 

Mark42

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

I use the castle nut. Probably would be much easier to remove the cotter pin if it was a regular nut, but the Evinrude/Johnson manual calls for the castle nut.<br /><br />It's working in the through hub exhaust space that makes it so hard.
 

Dhadley

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

OK. This may help - I use a slightly longer ss pin than called for. Once the nut is on and snug I put the pin thru and slightly bend the long side, like a 45 degree angle. You dont have to bend both sides and you dont have to bend it back around the nut. Just bend one side so the pin stays there.<br /><br />Keep this in mind -- As long as the motor is in forward there is no pressure on the nut. The prop is trying to go forward, actually you dont even need a nut. The only time you need the nut is when you back off the throttle quickly (in forward) and in reverse. <br /><br />The pin only keeps the nut from backing off in case it (nut) works its way loose.
 

rodbolt

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

yep<br /> what DHadley says. I see the pins bent all around the nut all the time. no need for it and if that far bent it is uaually not reueable. I use a pair of side cutters to straighten the pin the grab the top of it with the cutters level and then rock the cutters and pull out the pin. usually it straightens itself on out.
 

Mark42

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Dhadly and rodbolt,<br /><br />Thanks for the input. Will try that in the spring when the prop goes back on.<br /><br />Mark.
 

Dhadley

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

This spring?? <br /><br /> With all this talk of changing props I was thinking we're gonna do some testing this weekend! <br /><br />Well, I suppose it may be a little chilly there...
 

Mark42

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Dhadly,<br /><br />Yeah! Its cold! But reading another post reminded me of this problem so I posted it before forgetting.<br /><br />Is it spring yet?
 

alderman

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Aug 11, 2004
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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Not spring yet(bah) I use the longer pin on my 71 25hp rude, I dont have to deal with the castle nut. I fish the missouri river a lot and have had to change props several times while floating downstream. (allway right after I passed the last ramp for ten miles) I do as Rodbolt and Dhadley said, just enough bend to keep it in. Never had a problem.<br />Ray
 

Solittle

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

I have found using a needle nose plyers and a hammer handy to get the cotter pin out. I straighten the "pins" roughly. Then I put one tip of the needle nose through the eye of the cotter pin and give the needle nose a rap with the hammer. When the pin is out I put it in a vise to straighten.
 

Jcrain

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Cotter pins are cheap. I just use a new one each time
 

tfbrown1270

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Sep 5, 2003
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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

All this talk of castle nuts/cotter pins made me think of the lack of anything to hold the prop on but a nut with a plastic collar on my 89 85hp force....should there be more to hold on the prop?.....I was thinking this might be an issue cause this past summer I had to tighten the nut (about 1 1/4" I think) several times,,,on occasion it was really loose...I'm afraid of losing the prop....I even checked with a local prop shop and the guy said thats all it's supposed to have...any thoughts...any fixs!..thanks..
 

Dhadley

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Keep this in mind -- As long as the motor is in forward there is no pressure on the nut. The prop is trying to go forward, actually you dont even need a nut. The only time you need the nut is when you back off the throttle quickly (in forward) and in reverse. <br /><br />The pin only keeps the nut from backing off in case it (nut) works its way loose.
 

redmopar

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Nov 30, 2004
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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Myself, i only bend one leg of the cotter pin 45 degrees as mentioned earlier on my johnson 115. There is no real pressure on the cotter pin, it only serves to keep the nut from turning. It only need be bent enough not to fall out when it is spinning. I have never had one fall out, but I find i can remove the cotter pin when it is like this sans any tools. Line up the holes and the crown nut and i just pinch the end of the pin with my fingers and push it out. Turn the nut a little with the ol wrench and the nut spins off. Install the new prop and nut. Put in the NEW pin and bend it back 45 degrees again with my fingers. As said earlier, pins are cheap. I have a bunch in my onboard toolbox. Makes it easier when you are floating behind the boat changing the prop. Of course, I am a big meathead so pinching and bending that little pin is no problem. :cool:
 

lawyertob

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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Originally posted by kenora:<br /> All this talk of castle nuts/cotter pins made me think of the lack of anything to hold the prop on but a nut with a plastic collar on my 89 85hp force....should there be more to hold on the prop?.....I was thinking this might be an issue cause this past summer I had to tighten the nut (about 1 1/4" I think) several times,,,on occasion it was really loose...I'm afraid of losing the prop....I even checked with a local prop shop and the guy said thats all it's supposed to have...any thoughts...any fixs!..thanks..
Kenora,<br /><br /> I am a relative newbie with boat motors, but I do know a thing ot two about the nylon insert lock-nuts. After they have been tightened a time or two they start to lose their grip. I don't know how much a new nut would cost, but I suspect it would be MUCH less than a new prop. As for ways to make it stay better, I will leave that to one of the guys who knows your engine better. You might want to start your own thread and someone will come along with a solution.<br /><br />Just my $0.02 worth,<br />Joe
 

Mark42

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Oct 8, 2003
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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

I must be using a much thicker cotter pin than you folks. It is the pin that came with the OMC prop nut kit. It is stainless steel, and is impossable to bend without the use of a pliers. <br /><br />I know similar size pins I use on trailer axles, tractor, etc can be bent with your bare hands. <br /><br />Maybe I should change to a regular cotter pin.
 

vetstudent

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Nov 11, 2004
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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

Sorry for the accidental reply (this is an edit)
 

lark2004

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Jul 12, 2004
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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

just make sure it is a stainless steel split-pin, not a regular zinc plated pin.
 

Winger Ed.

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Mar 24, 2004
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Re: Prop nut and cotter pin issue

lock-nuts. After they have been tightened a time or two they start to lose their grip.
While in the service, working on jets & helos, we only used a lock nut once for that reason.<br /><br />I use them exclusively on my boats, even to hold down a bow light. <br /><br />However, in our semi-less critical situations, I'll use a lock nut until it doesn't have enough resistance left in it to make a ratchet wrench 'click' as I tighten it down. <br /><br />Even on props, this has worked well for me.<br /><br />Ed.
 
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