Full synthetic tcw 3 oil

boater1234

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Yes sir,1 inch from the bottom of the float to the top of the shaft it sits on.
 

boater1234

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I have rebuilt these carbs well over 6 times already,they are easy as pie.
 

flyingscott

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Try leaning it out and you may have to adjust the idle screw as you do that. One other thing is your thermostat working.
 

boater1234

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I am going to like I said run all the gas in my tanks out,start from fresh gas again with a perfect 50:1 oil ratio and change the plugs and see were I'm at,plus fiddle with the fuel/air mixture screw a bit. I just need to put my engine in a barrel and run it in f gear at idle and get the mixture correct. I will figure this out some how.
 

boater1234

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Once I use all the gas up,I'm re fueling fresh,i'm also changing the plugs and lower unit oil all at once. My local lake has been closed due to very high water from hurricane hermaine, but it should be open now I hope to go test the new 25hp carb.
 

Sea Rider

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You have fixed floats and the ones that has a thin flexible metal plate. If fixed, nothing to adjust, valve tip must seal & sit fully on valve seat when pushed upwards by float. Float body must rest parrallel to carb's border when turned upside down, adjust if needed.

Carb adjustments must be done while OB works with boat at sea, lake, river, whichever. Adjusting mixture/idle screws on muffs/ barrel will vary than when combo is adjusted as suggested. Mixture screw will only adjust ralenti speed, when throttle is opened up, carb works with fixed non adjustable jets. Go for a spin at 3/4 throttle for some minutes for OB to reach its working temp and then adjust both screws.

All non synthetic 2 strokes TCW-3 oils do smoke, more at first start, less when OB is working at its correct temp. 2 strokes OB's doesn't like working at idle/fast idle speeds for long time periods, plugs foul faster due to plug tip not reaching higher temp that's only reached while running at much higher revs.

Happy Boating
 

boater1234

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I personally think I have over oiled my mix by continuing to top off my tank. I bet I just put way to much oil in by mistake and not paying attention to what I was doing. So now say that's my issue,should I just run it till it's gone or maybe throw it in my old jeep. I'm sure using it won't kill it. I am planning on going to my local lake in the morning and just running wot for an hr or so should eat up some gas and while I'm there I can tune her up to. I plan on changing the plugs and a lower unit oil as well so I would guess some extra oil won't hurt.
 

Sea Rider

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If plan changing spark plugs for new ones, would suggest squirting some decarbonizing product through carb's throat while OB is on, follow can instructions, go for a final wot spin for some minutes to burn remaining product before putting new plugs in. Ob will run smoother with less carbon build up on pistons, piston rings.

2 stroke oil ratio is 80 ml per 1(3.78 ltr/gal) can mix on a separate large container and pour well mixed 50:1 fuel/oil mixture inside tank, that way won't have over oiling issues, including filling the amount needed without a tank overflow.

OMC Power Tuner or CRC Engine Tune Up works fantastic well, use it regularly at each 100 worked hours. Give them a try. Remove carb's air silencer before application, will have better access to carb's throat than squirting through silencer.

Happy Boating
 

boater1234

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I use seafoam, I have that on my list to do. I de carbed like 4 mths ago but after this mess it won't hurt to throw another can in my gas. I just put this carb on like 3 weeks ago so it's all new internally. I'm just going to run 3 gallons of fuel and one can of seafoam through the system and once that's all done I'm going to start with a new batch of gas.
 

boater1234

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I'm usually very good at remembering how much oil and gas I put in when adding gas to my existing fuel but sometimes people make boo boos,lol. I must have just added to much oil on mistake. When I first ran her mths ago and I had the ratio correct she smoked but not to bad. My mistake. I also decided to run 60:1 which is not that much leaner than 50:1,just a hair and here is why. First off I know it won't hurt anything, second there is 128 oz in a gallon and 12.8oz gives me 10 full 6 gallon tanks which works out perfectly per gallon. I'm using full synthetic oil also which I know protects much better.
 
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Sea Rider

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50:1 is used to run from idle to full wot for extended time periods, see some crazy boaters pouring more 2 strokes oil thinking that will lube and protect more their OB, which is not true, only will achieve faster plug fouling along more carbon build up on piston head, piston rings, cylinder head and exhaust system as well specially if OB won't run wot from time to time. To each his own theme..

Happy Boating
 

boater1234

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Went and got new fresh gas and started over and it barely smokes now so it was definitely the oil. I went and set the fuel/air mixture screw to 1 1/4 turns as the book says and man what a difference. I know I still have to finely tune the motor in gear on the water but at least it's a good start. She runs awesome now.
 

jimmbo

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Extended periods of idle will lead to oil building up in the crankcase and transfer passages which can result in a trail of smoke upon acceleration. The engine will let know by getting jittery. Think of the smoke as a Mosquito Repellant, and a sweet smelling one too!
 

82rude

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Remember one thing boater1234 ,no wheres on a bottle of xd100 will you see the words tcw3,i believe amsoil also.Ive looked at my xd100 jug a hundred times ots just not there period.Does not mean its no good as its a super premium oil for evinrude 2 strokes.Maybe full synthecs play by different rules or brp just didn't bother to certify.
 

jimmbo

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OMC/BRP do not get the TCW-3 cert for it. They are targeting it for specific engines they manufacture. However, since the TCW-3 oils really were part of the problems experienced by the Ficht engines, XD100 probably could be rated as the future standard TCW-4 meeting the unique needs of DI engines
 

82rude

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Good theory jimmbo! I know when I called brp/evinrude about xd100 being used on the tcw3 setting they told me I would be getting the absolute best protection .
 

JimS123

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I thought the XD-50 was formulated for direct mix, while the XD-100 was specifically for oil injected engines. So, while using XD-100 may be real good for an Etec it would offer no extra advantage for an old style Yami or Merc.

I can attest to the excellent smoke-free results with the XD-50. That's all I use now. You can keep the cheep Pennzoil syn from Wallyworld - that's the 2nd worst 2-stroke oil I ever used. IMHO I stay away from the aftermarket auto oil brand names. Smoky & stinky. Even Quicksilver beats Pennzoil!
 

82rude

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I don't believe xd100 would hurt any outboard and is orderless and smokeless according to brp.Some people call the settings on the etec xd100 and xd50 or even 50 to one which is really not correct as on the tcw3 setting or xd50 as they call it my actual ratio over the year was 85 to 1.Ive heard that the skidoo etecs oil is mfg by Castrol and wonder if its the same for the outboards.I never had any issues with the penn semi synth but have since switched to mystic semi.For all the oil my 60 uses I'm going to go to amsoil full synth or back to xd100 when I run out of mystic.You can usually find xd100 on amazon in 3 gallon lots for a good price.
 

boater1234

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I have ran pennzoil full synthetic oil in nearly every outboard I have ever run and it's the best I've run up to date besides my Royal purple oil also,they are about equel imo. I should say those 2 are the best I've ever used so far. I may give amsoil or xd100 a shot. From everything I have read with the amsoil Saber 100:1 it's all about film strength being incredibly strong, from all I've gathered to it can,be run at 80:1 but no richer than that for it to work the way it's supposed to.
 
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