New outboard?

daanbc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 1, 2016
Messages
75
Hello all, I just recently got my feet wet again. (Been about 5-6 yrs since last boat) I purchased a 1993 Alumacraft compititor 165. It has a 1993 60 hp Evinrude VRO. Motor is strong, but in the back of my head it's still a 23 yr old motor. How reliable can it be for how much longer? So I started to look into a NEW 60 hp Evinrude, but I can't get any straight cost! Everyone wants me to give info to get a quote. Does anyone know what the average price is for one? Thanks
 

robert graham

Admiral
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
6,908
A well maintained 1993 motor could/should last for many years more....just run it and enjoy it....do a few preventive maintenance items like change the foot oil, new spark plugs, new water pump, etc....
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
I'm thinking that you're only going to get maybe another 10 to 10 trouble free years out of a well maintained 1993 motor. :lol:

Seriously though the things that start needing replaced are inexpensive when compared to the 1000's a new one costs. People trade off cars for the same reasons, they can't work on it themselves and might break down.
 

daanbc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 1, 2016
Messages
75
Thank you gentlemen. My last motor was a I/O 4cyl merc-cruiser. This motor I have now is "new" to me because I never had a tiller motor so big. And I am a little nervous that there seems to be a little dark burnt oil coming from the prop. And I did notice last night some fresh clean fluid "oil" or light gear fluid coming from under head top of tilt mech. area. It seems to be wet under there. So Im thinking there may be a leak, or I might have damaged it a bit by placing the motor in the up most up position last week. Other then that, the motor is spotless and has been kept / serviced from original owner.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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2 cycle oil on both counts. Even after the combustion process there's a lot of carbon and oil residue that comes from the exhaust via the prop. When you tilt the motor up some fuel will spill from the throat of the carbs and run down the cowling, exiting on the upper part of the shaft. Is that oil you see a little lighter version of the same color as the 2 stroke oil you use? The oily mess can be fixed by replacing the gasket in the air box or carbs and make sure the that the 1/4" line at the bottom of the air box hasn't come off, it's supposed to drain into the combustion chamber rather than in the motor cowling.
 

daanbc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 1, 2016
Messages
75
That's a relief. I will check the line tomorrow and see if its connected. And I'll check the air box. THANKS!
 

82rude

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
4,082
If your serious about a new 60 etec I believe in 2012 I paid approx. 5800 .Now that is 4 years ago now but I remember I got a gallon of xd-100 oil ,prop and free take off of my old 90 and install of the new 60 all included.And the same day I bought it brp had a free extra 3 years warranty so 6 years total.
 
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daanbc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 1, 2016
Messages
75
No Title

That seems reasonable. Great warranty. You guys where right! When I came home from work tonight I checked it out. The gasket was all WET on the bottom. The carbs. had oil residue in them too, from when it was tilted up. I have a question, on the carb. linkage side there is a black cylinder with a RED switch which can be moved up or down. What is this for? I looked in the manuel but can't find it.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
That's the primer for cold starts rather than using choke plates to create a rich mixture it adds extra fuel.
 

daanbc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 1, 2016
Messages
75
Thank you. Wonder why there's no mention of this or pic. in the manual.
 

SkaterRace

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
734
My motor is from 1977 and runs amazing. I have maintenance records from previous owners going back to the mid 80's and not much has been changed out other than the usual stuff like impeller, oils, ect. The only big things were the previous owner got it rewired with labeled wires because like me he was colour blind and it made it easier should he ever have an issue on the water. The starter was rebuilt as well. Cost for that in 2012 was $210 ish
 

daanbc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 1, 2016
Messages
75
I'm color blind too!
The manual is a OMC Service Manual New old stock.
 

James R

Commander
Joined
Feb 1, 2007
Messages
2,664
Stay with your good two stroke and perhaps consider pulling the VRO and fitting a standard fuel pump running on 50:1. Be sure to rebuild the carbs and use Stabil in the fuel. Service the lower unit every two to three seasons and that motor will probably be running after I'm gone. The old VROs are suspect so I remove them when I can to be sure that the motor is getting oil. I would never recommend a four stroke. Nothing but trouble and life is measured in short years not decades. Sorry you four strokers.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Spraying Carbon Guard, Engine Tuner products through carb throats with engine on while following can recommendations does wonders for old 2 strokes engines and the ones that don't regularly use anti carbon products mixed with fuel on tank. OB will purr as a kitten as in the good old days..

Happy Boating
 
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