(Possibly stupid) questions about motor for 12-foot aluminum boat, from a rookie...

[ondarvr]

Those are very good motors, there could be a couple of reasn why it may not be pee correctly, it could be nothing but a plugged pee tube, but if no water was pumping throught the motor it may have been overheated and done damage.

 

[oldboat1]

Evinrude is a long shaft model (5" longer) -- long for a 15" transom. Powerhead has to be removed to access the impeller. No big deal (need a powerhead gasket along with water pump parts.) What ondarvr says about potential overheating ^^. Look for paint loss, scorching, history of overheating/use. Get model numbers when you shop, so can confirm year. I have sometimes shopped with Peter Hunn's Old Outboard Book (try Amazon) -- model no./yrs. Huge amt of outboard history.

 

[mofo83]

I thought that shaft looked long! This may be another stupid question, but... the long shaft just looks like a short shaft with an "extentsion" added above the lower unit. It's not possible to just "remove" this "extension" to make it a short shaft... right?!

 

[MTboatguy]

You can make a long shaft a short shaft and you can make a short shaft a long shaft, you just need to buy the parts to do the transformation, it is less expensive just to buy the type of motor you need than changing out drive shafts and adding extension housings. There are millions of boat motors out there, you can find what you need without having to do surgery on the one you have. Remember there is always someone looking for what you have, just as you are looking for what they have.

Trying to find what you are looking for at this time of the year is not always easy, when I go looking for a motor, I do in the middle of the winter, often times the week before Christmas you can find some great buys on good motors. People are still boating right now, so motors are demanding a premium price.

 

[mofo83]

Yah, I definitely can find one that's already the proper shaft length, I was just curious if it was ever as simple as removing an "extension" type piece.

And, while I definitely am new to boat motors, I am a Craigslist bargain-master (ha, self-proclaimed), so when I do find something it will be below whatever the going rate is in this area for the given motor! Maybe that will not be until Christmas, who knows, no rush. I do still plan on checking out the one I posted before this one, where I have to bring my own tank/ lines. (Speaking of which, I need to get that model number...)

Thanks again!

 

[fishin98]

When looking for a motor,look for one you can afford. For a 12ft boat 6hp -9.9hp would be ideal. Shy away from ANY air cooled motor, along with any motor brand that is no longer in production. Do not waste your time on any motor made in the 50's,60's,70's and early 80's. Remember it's 2015 so any motor 15 years and older is going to be prone to mechanical issues. Nothing is more disheartening than going to the lake, launching the boat and having motor issues. When buying off of Craigs list ,shy away from any motor that does not have the serial number and motor ID plate illustrated, and does not come with a fuel tank(could be stolen). Find a reliable marine mech you trust for issues that you cannot take care of yourself. There is no joy spending all your time working on your boat motor instead of using it on the lake.

 

[oldboat1]

and on the best time to shop, think I prefer late summer, fall myself for marine stuff -- have the idea that people are looking at choosing selling over storing. Always figure prices go up as Spring approaches (though probably availability too as people try to catch the beginning of the boating season). Not objective -- probably true if people sell in winter, they are wanting to clear out the stuff. Unless it's getting towards spring, in which case they might be speculating......

Ah, just get a sense of what you want and what you want to spend, and offer accordingly whenever you see it.

 

[dakotamike]

you should try to find a late 70 early 80 mercury kiekhauffer 3.9 hp first gas motor I ever had loved it on a boat just like yours reverse and 7 mph

 

[mofo83]

Model/serial number on that 5.5 Fisherman I'm considering is: 5522 - 09259. Using iBoat's serial number lookup links, looks like it is in fact a 1961.

Wait... is that one that would have a pressurized tank or not? Looks like some 5.5 Fisherman did, some didn't? But I can't find what year they stopped using that style tank?

Thanks

 

[mofo83]

Though, when I look up parts for this model (5522), it does have "fuel pump" as an option... so I assume it has one?

 

[JimS123]

5522 is indeed a 1961 short shaft. No pressure tank.

 

[oldboat1]

that long shaft Evinrude -- could make an offer on that as a parts motor to get the parts for a shaft extension (on the '61, for example -- likely fit). Get sister motors for maybe $300 or less, and make a runner with parts to spare for next use. Shaft extension parts a little pricey, for example, with sellers who are parting out. Good to have the parts for future use.

 

[mofo83]

Jackpot! (At least a jackpot for a guy looking for a cheap old motor.)

Found a 1962 Fisherman 5.5 on Craigslist for... $50! Very clean outside and under the cowl.

Hasn't been run in 20 years, and owner couldn't get it to start as-is. I didn't want to "look a gift horse in the mouth" so I didn't do extensive testing while there. Just pulled the cord and it turns over and feels good.

Will test compression and spark tomorrow. If those look good... what's my next step, assuming it still doesn't start? Attack the carb? I know a little about cleaning and/or "rebuilding" those. I also assume I should just go ahead and order an impeller right away?

I have a good feeling about getting this running, for whatever reason.

Thanks!

 

[64osby]

If there is an inspection plate on the flywheel open it up and take a look at the coils. If they are cracked and ugly replace them.

Drain the lower unit and refill.

Carb rebuild.

Replace impeller, pretty sure you need to pull the block from the lower unit on that model. Buy a new gasket when buying the impeller.

 

[JimS123]

+1 ^....

Even if the coils don't look ugly, replace them anyway.

 

[mofo83]

Thanks! That seems straightforward enough (as long as I can get everything back together after changing that impeller!) A few questions...

1. To refill the lower unit after draining, I need a little oil pump, right? How do I know how much oil I will need?

2. Besides the new coils, I see a "tune-up kit" for $16 that I guess replaces the condensers and points. Is that worth replacing now also, regardless of the spark situation?

3. Anything else I should just replace now while I'm working on it? The pull-start rope? (Does that require a unique, specific rope?)

4. Besides oil, are there any additives I should mix into the fuel right off the bat?

5. The cowl is 95% structurally and cosmetically perfect (very attractive design), but there is one spider-web cracked spot near the pull start handle. What's the absolute cheapest/easiest way to "repair" this (I don't care about "restoring" it to perfection, at this point.) Some regular old epoxy, sanded and painted? I just don't want it to look "broken" or get worse.

 

[JimS123]

Thanks! That seems straightforward enough (as long as I can get everything back together after changing that impeller!) A few questions...

1. To refill the lower unit after draining, I need a little oil pump, right? How do I know how much oil I will need?

2. Besides the new coils, I see a "tune-up kit" for $16 that I guess replaces the condensers and points. Is that worth replacing now also, regardless of the spark situation?

3. Anything else I should just replace now while I'm working on it? The pull-start rope? (Does that require a unique, specific rope?)

4. Besides oil, are there any additives I should mix into the fuel right off the bat?

5. The cowl is 95% structurally and cosmetically perfect (very attractive design), but there is one spider-web cracked spot near the pull start handle. What's the absolute cheapest/easiest way to "repair" this (I don't care about "restoring" it to perfection, at this point.) Some regular old epoxy, sanded and painted? I just don't want it to look "broken" or get worse.

1. No pump needed. Bottom screw is drain, top is vent. Stick the tube of 90 weight gear oil in the bottom hole and squeeze. When it comes out the top hole, its full. Screw in the top screw first, then stick a finger in the bottom hole when you take out the tube, then screw in the bottom screw. Should take 2 tubes or less.
2. Yes its worth it.
3. Leave the rope - replace it when it breaks - it might outlast you. (or not....LOL)
4. Nothing
5. Need pics - probably just leave it alone.

 

[mofo83]

Thanks. I'll order all those parts shortly.

Checked spark and compression today and they both actually seem very good (compression is a hair over 80 on both cylinders.)

Only thing is, when I took out the plugs, the entire electrode end of both was covered in black gunk... which I'm assuming is all up inside the engine as well? Is this a big deal? How do I "clean it out"?

Thanks

 

[oldboat1]

If spark and compression, I would clean and gap plugs (carb cleaner, .030), put it deep in a barrel of water and try to start it. Fresh fuel 50:1 mix. Turn the idle adjustment needle in to seat, then turn it out counter clockwise 1 1/2 turns and try to start. Choke to start. If the PO had trouble starting, chances are he played with he carb adjustment needle. If you have spark and compression, it should pop and maybe run a little. I wouldn't order parts until you know what you need. It if runs, see if it's currently pumping water.

[edit. and if running and pumping, let it idle a while if it will -- check the temp (heel of hand on top of cylinder head -- if can hold it there for a few seconds, temp is in range.) Just running can clear lots of issues. Change out the water pump as a first maintenance item after test -- should change it before use on the boat just to be sure.]

 

[bonz_d]

. Fresh fuel 50:1 mix.

I do believe that 1962 engine is still a 24:1 mix as is my 1960 model.

80lbs on that engine is very good, clean carb and good spark it should purr like a kitten.