Mercruiser Gen3 Cool fuel module water in fuel?

agallant80

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So with a racore or spin on type filter if you get water in your fuel there is a way to drain it. With my lovely over engineered Gen 3 Cool Fuel module I don't see how to drain water if its in the fuel. Can anyone shed some light on this?
 

alldodge

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So with a racore or spin on type filter if you get water in your fuel there is a way to drain it. With my lovely over engineered Gen 3 Cool Fuel module I don't see how to drain water if its in the fuel. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Racor (Parker) makes some filters with drains and you can drain water from them without removing. I can see a good thing if your buying gas and have had problems with water. If your not having trouble in this area (mainly a diesel problem) a regular water separating fuel filter will work. Just change it with regular maintenance and there should be no issue with getting water inside the cool fuel module IMO
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... You canj always mount a canister type filer, ahead of the cool fuel thingy,....
 

agallant80

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Ayuh,.... You canj always mount a canister type filer, ahead of the cool fuel thingy,....
That is exactly what I was planning on doing. I can't seam to find my answer if the cool fuel thinnigy seperates water or not.
 

Bondo

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That is exactly what I was planning on doing. I can't seam to find my answer if the cool fuel thinnigy seperates water or not.

Ayuh,.... I donno, but if ya separate the water out before it, it really don't matter,....
 

Fun Times

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You can always mount a canister type filer, ahead of the cool fuel thingy,....
For what it's worth, I'm not 100% sure of the real reason but I do recall that Mercruiser does not recommend installing an additional filter inline before the Gen 3 cool fuel module.

I can't seam to find my answer if the cool fuel thinnigy seperates water or not.
The main filter inside the Gen 3 cool fuel module is a water separating fuel filter.
 

Bondo

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So how do you drain it if there is water in the fuel? Or dies it magicailly do it for you?

Ayuh,.... I'd think it's just like any other water separatin' fuel filter, take it off, throw it away, 'n put on a new one,...

After all, None of the filters supplied by Merc are drainable,...
 

agallant80

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Ayuh,.... I'd think it's just like any other water separatin' fuel filter, take it off, throw it away, 'n put on a new one,...

After all, None of the filters supplied by Merc are drainable,...


The fuel filter is a element type filter. There is no canister to discard.
 

Fun Times

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So how do you drain it if there is water in the fuel? Or dies it magicailly do it for you?
Once the filter becomes absorbed to capacity, then yes you could still have excess water flowing to the injectors just like on any water separating fuel filter. It's really only designed to catch a small amount from a mild case of fuel tank condensation.

Sometimes you may find it best to suck out/remove any remaining fuel/water inside the fuel module then re-add "some" fresh fuel before reassembly.
 

Thalasso

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Isn't the cool fuel system basically the same as Volvo's setup? Water passes around the pump to cool the fuel and the pump. It doesn't seperate water from fuel. That is the purpose of the filter
 

GA_Boater

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According to Merc, the Gen III also has a water separator/fuel filter built in.
 

alldodge

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Supposedly and I use it loosely (correct if in error FT), that the filter media is designed to not pass water, only fuel. The issue is that with ethanol fuels some water can make it past. The fuel system was setup this way to reduce the amount of work the pump needs to do in order to help it last longer, and to reduce the possibility of the engine running lean.

No just to do a slight bit of thought on what could help, don't think it would hurt. Put a spin on filter of the old style on prior to the cool fuel module. Install an electric low pressure fuel pump between spin-on and cool fuel. Spin on should catch all the water. Now is there a possibility of a problem of 4 to 7 psi (could use regulator to bring it down to 2-3 psi maybe) being supplied to the inlet side of the module? I don't see an issue but what does other think?
 

Bondo

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Supposedly and I use it loosely (correct if in error FT), that the filter media is designed to not pass water, only fuel. The issue is that with ethanol fuels some water can make it past. The fuel system was setup this way to reduce the amount of work the pump needs to do in order to help it last longer, and to reduce the possibility of the engine running lean.

Now just to do a slight bit of thought on what could help, don't think it would hurt. Put a spin on filter of the old style on prior to the cool fuel module. Install an electric low pressure fuel pump between spin-on and cool fuel. Spin on should catch all the water. Now is there a possibility of a problem of 4 to 7 psi (could use regulator to bring it down to 2-3 psi maybe) being supplied to the inlet side of the module? I don't see an issue but what does other think?

Ayuh,.... I haven't had the honor to work on one of these, But I believe, unless it trips a sender/ sensor somewhere, yer work-around, Oughta work,....
Just wire it through an O/P switch,....
 
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JustJason

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Yeah Uhmmm, that is not the way water separating filters work.

At best, the best fuel filters on the market filter particulates (aka crap) down to 10 microns. I don't know for sure, but I don't believe even the Merc filter elements are 10 micron. If I had to make a bet they are probably 40 to 50 micron filters.

Either way. The diameter 1 molecule of water is 3 Angstroms. (Angstrom being A for short from now on) 1 A is equal to 0.0001 of 1 micron. For a paper filter to actually filter water. It would have to filter down to 0.0002 A (as 0.0003 A and higher would allow water molecules to pass.) At the same time, 1 molecule of gas, depending on the blend, averages between 25 to 30 A. So if a filter actually could filter water out, it would not allow gas to flow either. That is why water weighs more per pound than gasoline does. The molecules are smaller, allowing them to bond more tightly together, with less space between them.

Liquids in the fuel system on the filter side are under suction. And liquids flow through that fuel line at a certain speed. The way water separating filters work. And what they do. Is they act as a buffer, and that buffer slows down the velocity of liquids flowing through them, and they allow gravity to separate and tug on the heavier liquids (water) from the lighter fluids (Gas). The paper element catches the crap in the fuel. The acting like a buffer, and allowing gravity to pull water out of the fuel, is a function of the capacity and to a degree more importantly, depth of the filter. Depth isn't just a measure of capacity, it allows the filter to work better and filter more water as a percentage (The deeper they are the better they work) If by happenstance gas weighed more than water, fuel/water filters would not work.

In the case of the cool fuel module. You remove the top cap. Then you remove the filter element. And then you remove filter cup. Any water in the system sits there in the filter cup, not the actual filter element.


As far as adding an additional FW filter before the CF module goes. It comes down to how much vacuum gets built up in the system. All filters create a restriction in the fuel system. Restriction can be measured in vacuum, inches of mercury. Mercury likes to see no more than 4 in/hg. If one were to ask "if" you could add an extra filter, the only way to know that is to measure your existing vacuum, install the new filter, and measure it again. If your fuel tank is below the level of the engine, if you are not running antisiphon valves, chances are you can get away with it. Other than that, your playing with fire. To much restriction leads to low fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure leads to a lean running condition. Lean melts holes in the centers of pistons. The idea of adding extra fuel pumps to the system should not be done by the average boater. There is to much at stake to make it both legal, and more importantly safe.​
 
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alldodge

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Yeah Uhmmm, that is not the way water separating filters work.

At best, the best fuel filters on the market filter particulates (aka crap) down to 10 microns. I don't know for sure, but I don't believe even the Merc filter elements are 10 micron. If I had to make a bet they are probably 40 to 50 micron filters.

Either way. The diameter 1 molecule of water is 3 Angstroms. (Angstrom being A for short from now on) 1 A is equal to 0.0001 of 1 micron. For a paper filter to actually filter water. It would have to filter down to 0.0002 A (as 0.0003 A and higher would allow water molecules to pass.) At the same time, 1 molecule of gas, depending on the blend, averages between 25 to 30 A. So if a filter actually could filter water out, it would not allow gas to flow either. That is why water weighs more per pound than gasoline does. The molecules are smaller, allowing them to bond more tightly together, with less space between them.

Liquids in the fuel system on the filter side are under suction. And liquids flow through that fuel line at a certain speed. The way water separating filters work. And what they do. Is they act as a buffer, and that buffer slows down the velocity of liquids flowing through them, and they allow gravity to separate and tug on the heavier liquids (water) from the lighter fluids (Gas). The paper element catches the crap in the fuel. The acting like a buffer, and allowing gravity to pull water out of the fuel, is a function of the capacity and to a degree more importantly, depth of the filter. Depth isn't just a measure of capacity, it allows the filter to work better and filter more water as a percentage (The deeper they are the better they work) If by happenstance gas weighed more than water, fuel/water filters would not work.

In the case of the cool fuel module. You remove the top cap. Then you remove the filter element. And then you remove filter cup. Any water in the system sits there in the filter cup, not the actual filter element.


As far as adding an additional FW filter before the CF module goes. It comes down to how much vacuum gets built up in the system. All filters create a restriction in the fuel system. Restriction can be measured in vacuum, inches of mercury. Mercury likes to see no more than 4 in/hg. If one were to ask "if" you could add an extra filter, the only way to know that is to measure your existing vacuum, install the new filter, and measure it again. If your fuel tank is below the level of the engine, if you are not running antisiphon valves, chances are you can get away with it. Other than that, your playing with fire. To much restriction leads to low fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure leads to a lean running condition. Lean melts holes in the centers of pistons. The idea of adding extra fuel pumps to the system should not be done by the average boater. There is to much at stake to make it both legal, and more importantly safe.

Thanks I think, but you may be just a tad getting to far into the weeds. With out knowing better about the water issue, I'll agree with your first statements.

As for your filter addition comments are a different story. It has already been determined by Merc that the reason to use the new cool fuel was to limit the possibility of a lean condition due to restriction. If your current pump is able to pull the fuel from the tank without issue, adding an additional filter and another pump has no way of adding more. So add the additional filter and pump and as long as you do your regular maintenance just how can anyone be playing with fire, or develop more restriction?
 

JustJason

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It has already been determined by Merc that the reason to use the new cool fuel was to limit the possibility of a lean condition due to restriction.

Before I say anything. I do have my degree in marine technology. As well as having certifications with Mercury Marine, Volvo, Yamaha, and quite a few other different manufacturers. I do marine machinery/engines for a living.

The words "cool fuel module" is just a selling term. Its just a word for what is nothing more than a box that has a low pressure FP, a high pressure FP, A fuel/water separating FF, as well as a water cooled fuel cooling circuit all inside the same box. Box being module. Volvo does the exact same thing, but they call it a fuel cell. (and they don't bother make it a "selling term", it's just a fuel cell). Crusader, Kodiak, and some of the smaller builders all do some variation of the same thing. It is all just a variation and evolution of a vapor separating tank, which Johnson outboard started doing 20+ years ago.

"Cool fuel" is nothing more than combining fuel pumps, fuel filters, and a fuel cooler, and sticking it all into 1 box, instead of having those 4 items being 4 different components. On older engines you would have a LP FP, a HP FP, a FW Sep filter, and a fuel cooler and those 4 different separate parts would be on 4 different separate locations on the engine. The cool fuel module sticks them all on 1 box, and that's all it does. Which does work out in some boat hulls that have good engine access. But makes it a suck job in other boats with terrible access.

If your current pump is able to pull the fuel from the tank without issue, adding an additional filter and another pump has no way of adding more.

Incorrect. Sort of.

Get a drinking straw. One of those big old fat mcdonalds drinking straws. Stick it in a glass and suck some soda out of it. It will be easy to suck. Now pretend your mouth is a fuel pump. And take 1 cotton ball, twist it up, and stick it up the straw. And now try sucking that same soda up. It will be harder to suck up with the cotton ball "filter" because it restricts soda flow. Now add a 2nd cotton ball, it will make it that much harder. That is if you do not change pumps, and stick with factory pumps.

I had said adding another pump is not advisable, and not something the average boater should do. You really have to know what you are doing here in order for the engine to both receive the correct amount of fuel (not to much and not to little) and also be safe, and not a fire hazard. The average person should not do this, and if they want to, consult a good mechanic or marine engineer first. But for 99.9% of all boaters out there, this should not be a concern.
 
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Fun Times

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At best, the best fuel filters on the market filter particulates (aka crap) down to 10 microns. I don't know for sure, but I don't believe even the Merc filter elements are 10 micron. If I had to make a bet they are probably 40 to 50 micron filters.
I'm not sure of the big filter but the bottom round screen is said to be 10 microns.

Mercury likes to see no more than 4 in/hg.
I've been meaning to bring this up to you Jason due to I noticed you mentioned 4in/hg in your how to test fuel system in the stickies.
While the vacuum values will change with different fuel hose sizes used, fittings, etc. etc., The preferred values from both Merc and Volvo are 2 in/hg found in their literature. Just curious if you've seen other manufactures allow up to 4 hg?
An example below.
https://www.perfprotech.com/blog/art...ser-vapor-lock
. Follow instructions below: a. Fuel temperature (at the engine’s fuel inlet fitting) and the amount of vacuum required by the fuel pump to draw the fuel from the boat’s fuel tank can contribute to vapor locking.
Mercury MerCruiser’s maximum engine fuel temperature specification that became effective January 1, 1996 is:
Under the hottest outside air temperature condition that the boat will be operated in, the temperature of the fuel being supplied to the engine shall not exceed 110[SUP]o[/SUP] F (43[SUP]o[/SUP] C) at any location between the fuel tank and the engine’s fuel pump.
Mercury MerCruiser’s specification for the maximum vacuum measured at the fuel inlet of any MerCruiser engine is:
2 in. Hg (7 kPa) maximum at idle rpm, 3000, full throttle and back at idle rpm.
Use an accurate digital vacuum gauge that reads in either in. Hg (inches of mercury) or (kPa) to check this specification. Common vacuum gauges to check an engine intake manifold vacuum are not accurate enough to make this type of measurement.
b. Reducing the temperature and maximum vacuum of the fuel being supplied to the engine will help reduce vapor locking problems.

NOTE: Carbureted and EFI/MPI with VST models only: The Water Separating Fuel Filter can be removed from the engine to a lower, cooler location. Use a Coast Guard approved fuel line between the filter and the fuel pump.
4. Check to see if the fuel tank is in an area where engine compartment heat or sun can preheat the fuel that is in the fuel tank. Putting insulation between the fuel tank and the heat source can help keep the fuel cooler.
5. Follow instructions below:
a. The fuel supply system can be a major cause of vapor locking. Remove all kinks in any of the fuel lines. Move the fuel line to be as close to the bottom of the boat as possible to keep it in the coolest area of the engine compartment. Replace clamps used to support the fuel line with larger clamps if the fuel line is being pinched or constricted with the current clamp. b. Reduce the total length of the fuel line to be as short as possible. Eliminate or reduce the number of 90 degree fittings used in the system to no more than 2. c. Any anti-siphon valve or restriction that causes a higher than specified vacuum reading can contribute to vapor locking and other driveability problems. If the vacuum reading is too high, try a less restrictive anti-siphon valve or the Electric Anti-Siphon Valve Kit.
NOTE: An engine that has a vapor locking condition may show a very low vacuum reading. This could be a false reading because vapor can give a very low vacuum reading. Check the inlet fuel line to ensure that a good solid flow of fuel is in the line instead of a mixture of fuel and vapors. As a test only, use a clear plastic hose between the engine and the supply line to look at the fuel flow visually.
d. Going to the next larger Inside Diameter (ID) fuel line and fittings can help lower the vacuum and help correct vapor locking conditions. An example is shown below.
5/16 in. (8 mm) fuel line and fittings ID 5.5 in. Hg (17.8 kPa), too high.
3/8 in. (9.5 mm) fuel line and fittings ID 2.5 in. Hg (8.2 kPa), too high.
in. (12.5 mm) fuel line and fittings ID 0.8 in. Hg (2.7 kPa), good.


Pulled from OSO:
Kind of a dumb question - for the Gen III's, where does the water that's separated from the fuel go? Does it just collect in the bottom of the plastic cup?
Water in the fuel from tank will be sperated out of suspension by the pleated filter itself and remain in the filter housing around the outside of the filter and start up from the bottom. When the filter housing is full of water the high pressure fuel pump will start starving out and most likely the engine will stall. When totally overloaded with water some water laced fuel can get through and it will start raising havoc at the injectors and fuel rail.

Its also interesting to note that the new ethanol in fuels help water molocules pass thru the water sperating fuel filters and get into the EFI system and engine where they do addtional damage. Some 496's have expeirenced rusting inside the fuel rail which clogs the injectors and this rusting is being caused by excessive amounts of moisture in the fuel system after the fuel water seperators.

If you are getting your fuel at marinas or in the water fuel stations and you suspect a lot of water may be present you can install a much larger fuel water seperator in the system and they should have drain petcocks on the bottom where the water will collect and you can drain a small amount out to test.
Bottom line is to service your Cool Fuel III at least once before each season and then during the season as use hours and issues with water dictate.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
 
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