4.3 fresh rebuild losing oil

kanteen

Cadet
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
19
Hello Everyone,

I just bought a 97 bayliner with a 4.3LX and A1/G1. I'm trying to figure out what is acceptable oil loss, what isn't, and where I should go from here.

Some background:
Previous owner had a dealer install a rebuilt 4.3 from a reputable engine builder last September. Two hours were put on the engine before I bought the boat. I'm told the break in instructions were followed. I checked the oil at that point and it was fine. I put five hours on and needed to add a little over a quart at that time. (Rotella 20w40). I put four more hours on, and needed to add a little over a quart once again. I've now added 2.5 quarts, with eleven total hours on rebuild. I have yet to do the ten hour oil change, but I am planning on it. I understand high consumption is "normal" during break in, but I have no reference for normal or high, so I have no idea if this is acceptable? Someone told me a quart every 5-10 hours is acceptable during break in, is that correct, and at what point should that taper off? I would imagine the rings have already seated by this point.

In addition, there was a lot of milky oil in bilge when I bought the boat. Previous owner said it was from old engine. I just now cleaned it up and wiped engine down to check for more leaks. I let it idle for a few minutes on muffs, and wasn't able to find any leaks. Since it's still technically in the break in, i didn't want to idle on muffs for extended periods. Oil pressure varies (on the dash gauge) between 40 at cold start, to 80 under load, but never falls below 40, and is usually in the 60's. Engine does not sound bad or tap.


While wiping it down i noticed another problem. The flywheel housing has at least two lose bolts.This is starboard, aft, right behind the starter. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I don't believe this is a sealed component, and therefore wouldn't be the cause of my oil loss, correct? Pictures attached.


The engine serial tag is not attached to the engine (it was mixed in with boat documentation). It does match the intake cover, both read OK147411, but I'm not sure if that is from the original engine or the new one. How I can tell? I suspect it's from the original engine because the parts diagram for that lists a remote oil filter, but the current, rebuilt engine, has a filter directly on the block. The rebuilt engine has a block casting number of 090, vortec heads, and 8 bolt intake.




At this point, my next step is going to be a compression test and check for blow by. Can anyone suggest anything else I should check. Do you consider my oil consumption at this point to be "normal"? Are the loose flywheel bolts cause for concern (other than a need to tighten them)?

Thanks!
 

81 Checkmate

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
1,360
Welcome to iboats.

1. Tighten the flywheel cover bolts........will not cause oil to leak. It's a dust/moving part cover
2. Keep an eye on bilge for oil leaks
3. Top off oil to full level...keep an eye on level. Check often
4. If still oil consumption...need to do a cylinder leak down test


I just rebuilt my motor (5.7) about 5 hrs run time......Have not used any oil...........So to answer your question, 2-1/2 quarts of oil seams to me alot....maybe they used a bigger oil filter than normal and it was not completly full. Just a thought.
 

Tom Gallant

Recruit
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
5
I rebuilt the 4.3 in my 1989 Regal last summer and when on the water oil began to appear in the bilge and seemed to be coming from the back of the engine. Over the winter I pulled the engine, installed another new rear main seal along with a speedi-sleeve, no more oil leak. There was an ever so tiny groove in the crank where the seal rides that I thought would be fine, I was once again wrong, best of luck.
 
Last edited:

pevaguy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
84
One possibility is the dipstick may be wrong and you are trying to run it with the oil level being a quart over-full which could result in excessive oil consumption.
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
If it keeps using oil you should hope it's an oil leak, that would be an easier repair than rings.
If you do a leak down test and it's good, the oil could be going down the valve guides. You might be able to sneak some umbrella style valve seals onto the valve stems. Check the spark plugs for oil fouling.
A problem with that scenario is that Vortec heads have taller valve guides than some other Chevies, so there might not be enough room for external seals. You'd have to check clearance because you don't know what lift cam is in there.
But it's a "maybe" that's less time and work than removing the engine.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,751
Hello Everyone,

I just bought a 97 bayliner with a 4.3LX and A1/G1. I'm trying to figure out what is acceptable oil loss, what isn't, and where I should go from here.

Some background:
Previous owner had a dealer install a rebuilt 4.3 from a reputable engine builder last September. Two hours were put on the engine before I bought the boat. I'm told the break in instructions were followed. I checked the oil at that point and it was fine. I put five hours on and needed to add a little over a quart at that time. (Rotella 20w40). I put four more hours on, and needed to add a little over a quart once again. I've now added 2.5 quarts, with eleven total hours on rebuild. I have yet to do the ten hour oil change, but I am planning on it. I understand high consumption is "normal" during break in, but I have no reference for normal or high, so I have no idea if this is acceptable? Someone told me a quart every 5-10 hours is acceptable during break in, is that correct, and at what point should that taper off? I would imagine the rings have already seated by this point.

In addition, there was a lot of milky oil in bilge when I bought the boat. Previous owner said it was from old engine. I just now cleaned it up and wiped engine down to check for more leaks. I let it idle for a few minutes on muffs, and wasn't able to find any leaks. Since it's still technically in the break in, i didn't want to idle on muffs for extended periods. Oil pressure varies (on the dash gauge) between 40 at cold start, to 80 under load, but never falls below 40, and is usually in the 60's. Engine does not sound bad or tap.


While wiping it down i noticed another problem. The flywheel housing has at least two lose bolts.This is starboard, aft, right behind the starter. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I don't believe this is a sealed component, and therefore wouldn't be the cause of my oil loss, correct? Pictures attached.


The engine serial tag is not attached to the engine (it was mixed in with boat documentation). It does match the intake cover, both read OK147411, but I'm not sure if that is from the original engine or the new one. How I can tell? I suspect it's from the original engine because the parts diagram for that lists a remote oil filter, but the current, rebuilt engine, has a filter directly on the block. The rebuilt engine has a block casting number of 090, vortec heads, and 8 bolt intake.




At this point, my next step is going to be a compression test and check for blow by. Can anyone suggest anything else I should check. Do you consider my oil consumption at this point to be "normal"? Are the loose flywheel bolts cause for concern (other than a need to tighten them)?

Thanks!

Your serial number of OK147411 is listed as a 1997 4.3LX

Your oil consumption is not normal, far from it. Don't know what kind of rebuild you got but this site is littered with every shape and size of rebuilds gone wrong. Even have some from Merc that wasn't done correctly (Merc doesn't do there own rebuilds). You have the right idea of doing a compression test, and having the bilge cleaned up to look for leaks. I hope this is not the case but I would not be surprised if the Dealer/PO/Rebuilder did something wrong or dishonest.

Agree, flywheel bolts are nothing to cause the issue but does show sloppy work.
 

Volphin

Lieutenant
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
Messages
1,405
Just for giggles, check the oil pressure sending unit area for leaks. ;)
 

kanteen

Cadet
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
19
Thanks everyone! I appreciate all the replies. It's been a busy week, I still haven't had time to do a compression/leak down test, but I did notice a good bit of oil on the hoses connected to the backfire arrestor. I know on most cars, this is normally a PCV, but mine appears to have a passive system. That would lead me to believe it could be blow by, correct?


I'm HOPING the idea about wrong dipstick/overfill is my issue, because I hate to say this, but the first time i added oil, I cant remember leveling the boat/engine first. Not saying i didn't, but I cant remember. I definitely did before the second time, and I haven't taken it out since the last oil add, so that is still a definite possibility. lol, i'd rather be an idiot who wasted oil...than an idiot pulling an engine!

The bilge is still dry, and the oil pressure looks good, so I think i'm just going to run it and see how it goes (assuming compression/leak down are fine). If anything I can at least keep eyes on it to see if it keeps happening.


I'll keep everyone posted on what I come up with. Thanks again!
 
Last edited:

kanteen

Cadet
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
19
I just wanted to give an update and thank everyone once again for all the suggestions. It turned out to be a bad intake manifold gasket. It would only leak under WOT, which was somewhat scary to troubleshoot when your cruising across a choppy lake and trying to not brush your teeth with the accessory belt, lol.. I think the engine installer forgot how to use a grinder. There was paint under the seal from the rebuild.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,751
I just wanted to give an update and thank everyone once again for all the suggestions. It turned out to be a bad intake manifold gasket. It would only leak under WOT, which was somewhat scary to troubleshoot when your cruising across a choppy lake and trying to not brush your teeth with the accessory belt, lol.. I think the engine installer forgot how to use a grinder. There was paint under the seal from the rebuild.

Glad you found the issue. Not that this may have been a factor but, there are so many folks out there which will use silicone to help seal the gasket in the area. Only issue is silicone is slick until it dry's. I would use something like 3M adhesive if adhesive is used, or if silicone is used only use it on one side of the gasket.
 

Fishermark

Vice Admiral
Joined
Oct 19, 2003
Messages
5,617
Better yet is to throw away the end seals and use RTV only. An appropriate sized bead of RTV is the best for sealing the ends - NOT the rubber gasket that comes with many kits.
 
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