V6 to V8 swap

DubT

Cadet
Joined
Jan 30, 2014
Messages
16
I have adjusted mine to shift at an idle and it is very smooth and its just too much work to swap when it is running great and already has one summer under its belt. If it breaks i have it in the shop for a plan B. Its the same amount of work to swap if it breaks vs it running, im going to take my chances with the alpha for now. What is your top end speed on your 1996 crownline? My boat is a 1993 celebrity and the hull designe is very similar to yours. I wish i knew more about gear ratios and what the mean.
 

thumpar

Admiral
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
6,138
I think I am running in the high 40s but this is a very heavy hull. The difference with shifting is the cone clutch vs. the clutch dogs..
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
I wish i knew more about gear ratios and what the mean.

It's really a matter of what rpm range props are most efficient in.

Operate them out of the correct range of rpm at high power settings and you either get severe cavitation or very poor efficiency. You can see the approx correct RPM range by looking at max RPM for different installations (max eng RPM vs ratio ) It's the whole reason for different ratios.

Regardless of the min/max rpm of different engines, using appropriate ratios allows you to operate the props in approx the same RPM range and still take advantage of the RPM where the engine makes the best torque.....

Your engine and drive will work........... you'll just have to be careful with your "throttle-hand".

You may not find a high enough pitch prop (using the 1.84:1 drive ratio) to take advantage of the excess HP/tq available. And if you do, you'll have to turn the prop too high an RPM (outside/above it's most efficient RPM)

The engine really looks NICE!!

Can you post more pictures and/or a vid?
 
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DubT

Cadet
Joined
Jan 30, 2014
Messages
16
I have a few videos of when i first got it in the boat. Whats the best way to load them on here. I may try and put them on youtube and share the link on here. Hopefully i can get some fly by passes( maybe at 70mph) lol. But as of now its. solid 63mph by gps which is pretty fast for that lil boat. I will get bk on here tomorrow im bout to go to bed for now.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Fast is not all that good for some boats!

I would suggest that you and everyone in the boat wear PFD's, and connect a "Kill-lanyard" to yourself when you do that.

A "chine-walk" at 70mph can happen so fast that you or your passengers might not be able to hold on through it, and you all might hit the water (unconscious) before you know it!

Drive safe!
 

Walt T

Lieutenant
Joined
Mar 16, 2002
Messages
1,369
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ok he still hasn't had his question answered about drive ratios and what they mean. A 1.5 ratio means the prop is turning one full revolution for every 1.5 engine revolutions. This ratio number along with the prop pitch number is used to load the engine to a specified rpm at wide open throttle. For example: Lets say you have a boat like yours, 18 foot bow rider V hull. Drive is 1.5 ratio and it has a 21 pitch 3 blade prop. The V6 engine goes to 5000 rpm at wide open throttle. That is perfect. This means the engine is producing its maximum power and cannot make the boat go faster. The actual load is the water against the prop and the hull. That ratio and pitch are dialed in for that particular boat so the engine cannot exceed 5000 rpm. You can pull skiers all day long, throw in some 50 mph runs trying to outrun the water cops while you toss beer cans overboard. Now swap in the 383 stroker and drive it with the same ratio and prop and as you experienced the rpm exceeds 5000 quite easily because the ratio and pitch cant load it down enough so the motor simply overwhelms it. Think of the ratio and pitch as a "Governor" of sorts. Now you have to tinker with the pitch and ratio. Where to go? Go closer to a 1.0 ratio and up in pitch. (Slow the engine and make it push more water out of the way at the same time) What we are doing is managing power over time. Thats it. So you should try higher pitch 3 blade steel props first. 26 pitch I suppose. But the problem is you run out of commonly made props when you go too high in pitch. Then cost becomes a factor. Swapping gear ratios will allow you to stay within the commonly manufactured prop pitches. You will have to find the correct ratio and pitch by using the boat and hammering full throttle while taking RPMs and GPS speed. RPMs must be accurate and not too many dash tachs are accurate. I say 3 blade because you really don't need the extra blade surface to help get on plane. Your stroker doesn't care about low end because it was built for torque assuming you bought a marine stroker version. But a 4 blade will slow your top end because of the drag of the extra blade. Or maybe not. You'll have to experiment. I suppose I would start at 1.47 ratio and 24" prop minimum. I think with that ratio and that small boat you're gonna be looking for 28" prop which should get you to 75+ mph. Wind it to 5500 rpms and you'll be over 80.
HOWEVER... This is where the engine build comes in. The stroker is a low end grunt motor and the marine versions don't breathe well above 5000. So you may find 28 is too much and a 26 is good which will keep you under 80. Now this is all just my opinion, it's not gods word. The others will chime in and pick apart some of my numbers which is a great thing about this forum. You'll get more opinions which equals more information to help you pick the right combination.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]As for the drive, I would change it while I still have a good trade in drive. SEI is where I'd go. Re manufactured Mercs are fine of course. [/FONT]
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Well congratulation's it looks like a fun ride dont let yourself get airborne that is what will kill your drive. When the prop leave's the water it unloads all the Torque and when it re enter's it reload's and say good bye to your drive....that 383 has big block power and will not be forgiving. Take the time to look at the drive axles in a alpha drive they are incredbiky small ..feeble would be the word compared to automotive..i popped a rock with a 454/alpha combo/ssprop and snapped the lower drive line like a twig.

As to safety your boating in very dangerous territory i cannot stress enough you need to go over to offshore only and get some input on stabilizer's period end of story.I too have a similar setup and a 65mph things get just a bit hairy...think like this your driving down the road on ice and all of sudden you feel the car drift to the left a tad then a sharp correction to the right....and two seconds later your sideway's at 65mph. The last thing you will remember if your still above ground is where is my walltet. Google chine walk ...be safe and have fun.
 
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