1998 4.3 VOLVO. Synthetic or regular oil.

[ryan_289]

I need to change the oil for the first time in a boat I bought last year. The PO told me to use 30 weight but did not specify regular or synthetic. I was figuring on using a heavy duty diesel oil to have a little more zinc.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: 1998 4.3 VOLVO. Synthetic or regular oil.

I need to change the oil for the first time in a boat I bought last year. The PO told me to use 30 weight but did not specify regular or synthetic. I was figuring on using a heavy duty diesel oil to have a little more zinc.

Howdy,


Here's an excerpt from Volvo,

Like "type" of oil, they also talk about amounts etc.

How much oil should I put into my engine/drive/reverse gear?

You will find information on the correct amounts in the chapter “Technical data” in your operator?s manual or in one of the documents below.

Information on sterndrives

If you do not have an operators manual, they have a link there to obtain one.

If you want to use oil other than what Volvo suggests, then go for it.

If you do a search here or on other marine and boating sites, you'll find that EVERY type of oil has been used successfully.
You can even use the oil I mention in my sig below......


For some people it's an emotional decision.

ymmv,

Rick

 

[ryan_289]

Re: 1998 4.3 VOLVO. Synthetic or regular oil.

Thanks Rick. I will have to pull the cover off the boat and get the serial number so i can download the owners manual. I doubt the po was using synthetic or he would have specified. I really belive its more important to service on time than what brand of oil you use.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: 1998 4.3 VOLVO. Synthetic or regular oil.

Thanks Rick. I will have to pull the cover off the boat and get the serial number so i can download the owners manual. I doubt the po was using synthetic or he would have specified. I really believe its more important to service on time than what brand of oil you use.

It's always good to follow the Manufacturers recommendations,

What's most important however, is to ensure that you change the (engine and drive) oil at (100hrs/recommended-time etc, and/or) the end of the season, so you discover water intrusion early, and fresh clean oil sits "in there" for the "long" layup.



And although you do not have a catalyst engine, for others with newer cat-converter equipped engines, be absolutely sure to use the "type" of oil recommended for those engines.

I would be willing to BET that Mercruiser or Volvo would verify a cat-converter failure before replacing one under warranty.

When they cut a failed one open, they'll be able to tell what poisoned the catalyst. (AND the wrong oil might just cause failure well after a warranty expired) [you don't want to know what they would cost!]

 

[ryan_289]

Re: 1998 4.3 VOLVO. Synthetic or regular oil.

I found my owners manual. It states CE/SG or better. The oil im looking at is John Deere sae 30 CF rated. John Deere states for diesel or gas application. API states that CF is an offroad oil. Im guessing that means that if you have catylitic converters it could cause early failure?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: 1998 4.3 VOLVO. Synthetic or regular oil.

Im guessing that means that if you have catylitic converters it could cause early failure?

Here's what Mercury says:

IMPORTANT: Lubrication requirements for catalyzed engines differ from the requirements for non-catalyzed engines. Some marine-grade lubricants contain high levels of phosphorus, which can damage the catalyst system on MerCruiser engines. Although these high-phosphorus lubricants may allow acceptable engine performance, exposure over time will damage the catalyst. Catalysts damaged by lubricants containing high levels of phosphorus may not be covered by the MerCruiser Limited Warranty.

I haven't looked at what Volvo says but their cat engines use similar type of "CAT" so the requirements will be similar.

If you have cats......you don't want to have to replace them since they would cost a fortune and would probably not even be under the warranty when they did fail. And if they WERE covered, the Manufacturer would be able to easily tell if they failed due to exhaust "poisoning" and you can BET they would inspect them to see WHY they failed.