OK so Volvo's engine manual (downloaded--thanks DonS!) utilizes manifold vacuum readings at idle as the primary metric (measuring stick) to analyze engine performance and as a diagnostic tool. And from what I see, it doesn't even have a really great explanation for setting timing w/ a light....but I may be wrong there. It basically says start it, put the shunt in, and point that light at the now-illegible, poorly marked teeth, and guestimate between the 4-degree-increment teeth, until timing is correct.
I'm asking the question below maybe to help others with some small method of timing "check" without a light for all of the "my engine dies" and "hesitation" posts that I myself was experiencing when I first came here for advice.
First assumption: Idle mix screws have been meticulously adjusted for maximum vacuum at idle, in a freshly rebuilt carb.
So, for instance, if all is "normal" with any given engine, manifold idle vacuum is at least steady within 1", and it seems to be operating correctly (going up to reasonable WOT, having decent engine idle, etc....then you should be seeing 17 to 21" of vacuum from the manifold, after warm-up, and at idle RPM.
However, if you are only seeing 14 to 17" of vacuum, then the manual says you have "late timing".
And anything beyond that, per the volvo manual, should show serious fluctuations in a vacuum gauge, so you know there are other, more serious issues.
If one does not have a timing light, or timing shunt, then can one deduce that tweaking the timing adjustment on the distributor (GENTLY!) until the vacuum rises until it is greater than 18", that this is an acceptable confirmation that the timing is within correct spec's?
I know it's kind've an inverted educated guess, and we're talking about minor (my case very minor--I have a solid 16.5" of idle vacuum) differences, but would changing the timing until I get another 1.5 to 2" of vacuum be detrimental?
This one will open up debate, I'm sure, but let's hear it.
Thanks!
I'm asking the question below maybe to help others with some small method of timing "check" without a light for all of the "my engine dies" and "hesitation" posts that I myself was experiencing when I first came here for advice.
First assumption: Idle mix screws have been meticulously adjusted for maximum vacuum at idle, in a freshly rebuilt carb.
So, for instance, if all is "normal" with any given engine, manifold idle vacuum is at least steady within 1", and it seems to be operating correctly (going up to reasonable WOT, having decent engine idle, etc....then you should be seeing 17 to 21" of vacuum from the manifold, after warm-up, and at idle RPM.
However, if you are only seeing 14 to 17" of vacuum, then the manual says you have "late timing".
And anything beyond that, per the volvo manual, should show serious fluctuations in a vacuum gauge, so you know there are other, more serious issues.
If one does not have a timing light, or timing shunt, then can one deduce that tweaking the timing adjustment on the distributor (GENTLY!) until the vacuum rises until it is greater than 18", that this is an acceptable confirmation that the timing is within correct spec's?
I know it's kind've an inverted educated guess, and we're talking about minor (my case very minor--I have a solid 16.5" of idle vacuum) differences, but would changing the timing until I get another 1.5 to 2" of vacuum be detrimental?
This one will open up debate, I'm sure, but let's hear it.
Thanks!