How's this gear lube look

[R055]

Hey guys, winterized my boat and drained a little of the gear lube from the bottom of the outdrive. Are those spots of little lighter lube water? Should I drain the gear lube to make sure it doesn't crack the outdrive if it has water in it?

This whole season I would loose a couple ounces of gear lube every 5 hours so always just topped off.

 

[Grub54891]

Most drain the oil completely at the seasons end. A little milky oil could be an issue, as you had to add oil during the season, Drain and pressure check before you put it away. , You should pull the drive, check gimble bearing, u-joints, and alignment anyway as regular service.

 

[R055]

Most drain the oil completely at the seasons end. A little milky oil could be an issue, as you had to add oil during the season, Drain and pressure check before you put it away. , You should pull the drive, check gimble bearing, u-joints, and alignment anyway as regular service.

Planning to do that this spring as I'll be pulling the engine to replace the timing cover. It'll be nice when I don't have to constantly check the gear oil reservoir level. Just trying to see if that lighter colored gear lube is water.

 

[rick3452]

looks real good........

 

[GA_Boater]

Two ways to check for water in the lube.

1) Pour the oil in a clear container and look for the water bubbles on the bottom after it settles.

2) Pour the lube into a small sauce pan with a lid and heat it up. If it sounds like making fries or chicken, it's got water. The lid is important because the boiling water will splatter the hot lube.

 

[R055]

Two ways to check for water in the lube.

1) Pour the oil in a clear container and look for the water bubbles on the bottom after it settles.

2) Pour the lube into a small sauce pan with a lid and heat it up. If it sounds like making fries or chicken, it's got water. The lid is important because the boiling water will splatter the hot lube.

Alright I'll give the clear tube a shot when I got time

 

[Old Ironmaker]

Not great pics. If that whiter milky stuff on the right of pics is actually milky it does not look good and they are good pics. I would say you have a water leak. Mine looks 100% the same as the lube going in. I use a clear glass container to catch the old oil in and look for water separation then I actually pour my old lube oil into a coffee filter to look for metal shavings as well. I am anal about my lube oil. Any metallics on the magnetic bottom screw? GA boater has me beat, boiling the oil, great idea, it's on my list to do.

 

[GA_Boater]

Not great pics. If that whiter milky stuff on the right of pics is actually milky it does not look good and they are good pics. I would say you have a water leak. Mine looks 100% the same as the lube going in. I use a clear glass container to catch the old oil in and look for water separation then I actually pour my old lube oil into a coffee filter to look for metal shavings as well. I am anal about my lube oil. Any metallics on the magnetic bottom screw? GA boater has me beat, boiling the oil, great idea, it's on my list to do.

I'll admit boiling the oil isn't my idea. Either Roman emperor Domitian or achris came up with the idea first. To further forum unity, I'll credit achris

 

[R055]

Not great pics. If that whiter milky stuff on the right of pics is actually milky it does not look good and they are good pics. I would say you have a water leak. Mine looks 100% the same as the lube going in. I use a clear glass container to catch the old oil in and look for water separation then I actually pour my old lube oil into a coffee filter to look for metal shavings as well. I am anal about my lube oil. Any metallics on the magnetic bottom screw? GA boater has me beat, boiling the oil, great idea, it's on my list to do.

There is a small layer of magnetic shavings on the bottom screw. Is that normal or shouldn't be any?

Also on the edges it just looks milky because the bucket lid is white and it's a thin layer of the gear lube. Sadly the site doesn't let you upload high quality picture so I screen shot them to but that results in crappy quality.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

There is a small layer of magnetic shavings on the bottom screw. Is that normal or shouldn't be any?

Shouldn't be any, you have a problem. It indicates metal wear, time to pull the bottom end.

Georgia boater, you have my head ready to explode. Domitian or Achris? Boom. Just like the poster that wants to work in the Pacific Ocean in a 12 foot tinny, Boom bada Boom.

 

[R055]

Shouldn't be any, you have a problem. It indicates metal wear, time to pull the bottom end.

Georgia boater, you have my head ready to explode. Domitian or Achris? Boom. Just like the poster that wants to work in the Pacific Ocean in a 12 foot tinny, Boom bada Boom.

Also by metal shavings I ment metal fuzz so really small metal fuzz not big pieces. I'll take a picture next time I can and post it here.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

Fuzz is shavings, you NEED to pull the bottom end and change the seal before it gets worse, no pics required R055.

Drain all the water out of the bottom end as you would normally do to winterize it and put in fresh gear lube to keep moisture out. In the spring or over the winter pull the bottom end and change the seal and have someone check wear on the gear and shaft. You may be good to go with the old gear unit, small shavings are better than chunks of metal. I'm no marine mechanic so hopefully someone can chime in.

5 years ago I had some fuzz on the screw. No water in the lube oil, changed the oil and never had any wear since. I started to use the best gear lube in the market, I wasn't before. Lesson learned. Don't cheap out on anything Marine or automotive, nothing. I don't know if I can mention the name as iboats sells lower gear lube I'm sure.

 

[R055]

Fuzz is shavings, you NEED to pull the bottom end and change the seal before it gets worse, no pics required R055.

Drain all the water out of the bottom end as you would normally do to winterize it and put in fresh gear lube to keep moisture out. In the spring or over the winter pull the bottom end and change the seal and have someone check wear on the gear and shaft. You may be good to go with the old gear unit, small shavings are better than chunks of metal. I'm no marine mechanic so hopefully someone can chime in.

5 years ago I had some fuzz on the screw. No water in the lube oil, changed the oil and never had any wear since. I started to use the best gear lube in the market, I wasn't before. Lesson learned. Don't cheap out on anything Marine or automotive, nothing. I don't know if I can mention the name as iboats sells lower gear lube I'm sure.

By bottom end do you mean the bottom half of the outdrive or the whole outdrive that I would have to change the seals on.
BTW Thanks for the help everyone who commented so far.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

The bottom unit where it bolts to the long vertical drive shaft housing. I have helped do it but like I said I am no mechanic. I started my small engine repair and marine mechanic apprenticeship (internship no wages) at 58 years old. I'm 62 now. I may never finish but I am not looking at a career at my age. I just want to learn, it was always on my bucket list to be able to work on boats. I have learned so much in the last 4 years I am amazed but I am just knowledgably enough now to be dangerous. I had several journeymen work under my supervision over the years but was never mechanically or electrically minded. I am a Metallurgical Engineer that took me 10 years to get working shifts at the plant so says my diploma and have a honorary PHD from that University (Hamilton On. Mc Master U.) when I retired. My limit was righty tighty lefty loosy, then they threw in gas fitting. I think I am doing pretty good as 4 years ago I didn't know the difference between a 2 and 4 stroke engine. I have learned much here on iboats. I will read for hours old threads here going back years and then ask questions of my OBIWAN mentor at the marina. He tells me to stay off iboats it gives him a head ache.

I'm sorry you didn't ask for a resume. What I'm really saying is you too can get proficient enough to do your own trouble shooting by asking the good questions you are asking here. Read these forums it helps.

 

[R055]

No Title

The bottom unit where it bolts to the long vertical drive shaft housing. I have helped do it but like I said I am no mechanic. I started my small engine repair and marine mechanic apprenticeship (internship no wages) at 58 years old. I'm 62 now. I may never finish but I am not looking at a career at my age. I just want to learn, it was always on my bucket list to be able to work on boats. I have learned so much in the last 4 years I am amazed but I am just knowledgably enough now to be dangerous. I had several journeymen work under my supervision over the years but was never mechanically or electrically minded. I am a Metallurgical Engineer that took me 10 years to get working shifts at the plant so says my diploma and have a honorary PHD from that University (Hamilton On. Mc Master U.) when I retired. My limit was righty tighty lefty loosy, then they threw in gas fitting. I think I am doing pretty good as 4 years ago I didn't know the difference between a 2 and 4 stroke engine. I have learned much here on iboats. I will read for hours old threads here going back years and then ask questions of my OBIWAN mentor at the marina. He tells me to stay off iboats it gives him a head ache.

I'm sorry you didn't ask for a resume. What I'm really saying is you too can get proficient enough to do your own trouble shooting by asking the good questions you are asking here. Read these forums it helps.

So gotta take this whole thing out? Also my outdrive is year 2003. Anyone got a link to all the seals I'll need to replace or should I pressure test first and only replace the seals that are not sealing?

 

[Old Ironmaker]

Ross, I'm going to let someone with more experience chime in. I will be watching closely for what's next. Pressure testing is interesting, not sure what it will tell you other than it leaks, I don't think it will tell you which seal. Looking at the seals might tell.

But I will say once stripped changing all the seals is a no brainer.

 

[R055]

Ross, I'm going to let someone with more experience chime in. I will be watching closely for what's next. Pressure testing is interesting, not sure what it will tell you other than it leaks.

I would say once stripped changing all the seals is a no brainer.

Alright thanks for all your help so far. Might even buy ask the gaskets and seals right now and do it this month so I don't have to waste $30 dollars of gear lube once spring hits.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

Early in Washington, getting late in the east. 12:55 AM. Good evening Ross.

 

[bruceb58]

Pressure test and vacuum test your drive(with it empty). To me the gear lube doesn't look bad at all and it's completely normal to have a light fuzz on the magnetic drain plug.

Do you always replace all the seals on the gear oil plugs every year when you change your lube?

 

[R055]

Pressure test and vacuum test your drive(with it empty). To me the gear lube doesn't look bad at all and it's completely normal to have a light fuzz on the magnetic drain plug.

Do you always replace all the seals on the gear oil plugs every year when you change your lube?

This is my first year owning the boat so never replaced the gear lube yet. Those light spots in the 3rd picture aren't concerning?