Please show me a better way to winterize

[njlarry]

I have been winterizing my 1996 5.0 FL Volvo SX for the same way the past ten years with good results. BUT, it takes close to four hours! There must be a better way.
First I remove and drain the two hoses on the raw water pump and reattach. Then remove and drain the large hose from the thermostat housing to the circulating pump. Next I remove the hoses to the exhaust manifold at the thermostat housing. The worst part is removing the aft end plugs on the manifold with the boat tilted up- I likely could do the same with the front hoses removed and the bow tilted down? Finally I drain both engine block petcock drains.
Then I pour AF down the large hose to the circulating pump, the two hoses to the exhaust manifolds, attach a hose to one end of the thermostat housing where one hose to the exhaust manifold goes to top off the engine. At last, I take samples from each petcock and test with a refractometer. Four hours.
Please show me a better, faster way.
I would not trust any system that pumps AF through the drive intake. Tried that the first year and tested no freeze protection from dilution. Also it is too difficult when not under a load for the engine to fully open the thermostat and keep it open for the AF.
Thank you for any help.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Drain only. Skip the AF.

Change oil and filter

Pull block and manifold plugs and probe with wire while that is draining, pull impeller, lower pump hose and supply hose.

Should take about an hour

Rinse out bilge from the crud that came out of block and mannys.

Change gear lube in drive. Pull drive to inspect u joints. Grease prop shaft

 

[airshot]

Yep...takes me around 4 hrs to winterize my I/O. First I run engine on muffs until warm and do a complete oil/filter change. Then drain block, remove water filter on gas line. I am one to add the antifreeze to help slow down rust. remove t-stat befor filling block. Remove outdrive and store in garage so I can go thru it over the winter. Remove both batteries and all electronics and remove porta-potty. Grease all fittings to be sure no water is in them including wheel bearings on trailer. Put boat in barn with bow up high and then remove any left over water in bilge and kiss her goodnight for the winter. Yep about 4-5 hrs

 

[Baylinerchuck]

+1 on what Dan said. My manual states to pull the hose off the power steering cooler, the end that comes from the outdrive, (supply hose). It takes me longer than an hour tho TBH. It will go faster in the future because I'm buying the crank case oil drain relocation kit so I don't have to stand on my head to drain oil. I still think my wife hasn't forgiven me for using one of her bowls as a drain pan.......

 

[dingbat]

My routine:
1. Back boat into equipment shed
2. Unhitch trailer
3. Drain washdown hose
4. Shut off battery switch
5. Pour RV antifreeze in cockpit drains
6. Put storage cover on motor
7. Drain 1/2 cup or so of fuel from seperator
8. Kick back with an adult beverage

Total time ~ 20 minutes if you count getting the beer as part of the winterization process.

 

[bruceb58]

My routine:
1. Back boat into equipment shed
2. Unhitch trailer
3. Drain washdown hose
4. Shut off battery switch
5. Pour RV antifreeze in cockpit drains
6. Put storage cover on motor
7. Drain 1/2 cup or so of fuel from seperator
8. Kick back with an adult beverage

Total time ~ 20 minutes if you count getting the beer as part of the winterization process.

No gear oil change?

 

[Lou C]

Nj Larry you are already doing it the best way!
The only way to save time & money is to skip the antifreeze which adds money but not much time.
Next time get a boat with an outboard or full closed cooling.

 

[njlarry]

Thank you all for all the great advice so far. I am wondering if removing the thermostat and pouring the AF in there would be easier than pouring it in the hose? It would mean a new gasket every year.
The AF is only 4 bucks a gallon. I like using it for the corrosion inhibitors but mostly I feel that if there are any pockets of water left the AF will prevent a freeze.
I mostly try to follow Don S's advice he posted here years ago, God bless him. I can see just draining would be a lot faster but I worry that somewhere in there I left some water.
Good point about the closed system. It takes 15 minutes to winterize the diesel on a sailboat.

 

[dingbat]

No gear oil change?

The LU oil and fuel / separator filter gets changed at winter maintenance the end October. Depending on the weather and movement of the fish, I may not "winterize" until early January. Ran a couple of trips in February last year. Back in full swing by mid-March

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Buy climate controlled room.. Park boat. -- Who started the AF in marine engines anyway? I'm going to research that. This time of the year, I winterize boats daily.. Did 5 yesterday, have 4 more to do thus far today and never once put AF in a boat. If you drain all the water out, there's nothing left to freeze. The only time I've ever seen a block or part crack due to freezing, is when the person never drained anything. Just left the boat full of water. So, Drain your block, drain your lines, drain your sea pump, drain manifold. Remove drive, inspect, service, change oil. You'll be good to go.

 

[Lou C]

If you properly drain there won't be enough water to cause any harm. Adding AF is really for enhanced corrosion protection. That's exactly what it says in more recent Merc shop manuals. And think about it all these cast iron GM engines were designed for pressurized coing systems and a water/AF mix. Raw cast iron unprotected rusts fast even in fresh water.

 

[Jeepster04]

^Nice selection of Jeeps! Ive got two ZJ's. One is a 98 5.9 Limited. Parents have an 06 Hemi WK, those engines tow so nicely.

Thank you all for all the great advice so far. I am wondering if removing the thermostat and pouring the AF in there would be easier than pouring it in the hose? It would mean a new gasket every year.
The AF is only 4 bucks a gallon. I like using it for the corrosion inhibitors but mostly I feel that if there are any pockets of water left the AF will prevent a freeze.
I mostly try to follow Don S's advice he posted here years ago, God bless him. I can see just draining would be a lot faster but I worry that somewhere in there I left some water.
Good point about the closed system. It takes 15 minutes to winterize the diesel on a sailboat.

Did Don die?

The only thing I dont do is change the engine oil and outdrive oil. It took me a good 30min to drain the block, manifolds, intake manifold, remove the hoses to drain them, and remove the impeller.

I suppose changing the oil and outdrive oil would add another hour or so. I just loosen the outdrive drain and make sure no water is in the drive. Ill change it in the spring. I dont change it ever year either.

 

[HT32BSX115]

I have been winterizing my 1996 5.0 FL Volvo SX for the same way the past ten years with good results. BUT, it takes close to four hours! There must be a better way.

Howdy,

Well, I'll jump on the ditto band-wagon. You asked for a "better Way" but complained about how long it takes.

If you want a shorter way, just drain the block, manifolds and associated hoses.

You don't really need to worry about reducing rust in the water jackets. My last boat (150 Mercruiser) went nearly 40 years just getting drained every year.

Unless you're operating in salt water (where I would be using [full] closed cooling...........) you'll wear out the engine before it rusts through the water jacket.

 

[crazy charlie]

I have pulled the stats and used a Camco tank set up to introduce AF from the drive unit for the past 30 years on 4 different engines without an issue ever including water heater.Fogg through the carb when the last gallon of AF is running through.Approx 1-1 1/2 hours for both engines total time.Charlie

 

[H20Rat]

I suppose changing the oil and outdrive oil would add another hour or so. I just loosen the outdrive drain and make sure no water is in the drive. Ill change it in the spring. I dont change it ever year either.

I do about the same. I usually put on around 40 to maybe 50 hours per year, so every other year works out perfect. I do check if there is any sign of moisture in the gear and engine oil, and change in the fall if there is.