Changing a prop is easy. Bend the cotter pin straight so that you can pull it out. Then turn the castle nut counter-clockwise and remove along with the plate. The prop should now slide off. I usually put some marine (bearing grease) on the prop shaft when I slide the replacement on. Put the plate back on, twist on the castle nut, push the cotter pin through and bend the long leg so that the pin can't pull out during use.
All of that said, I've seen much worse props in my life. I trust bruceb58, but would still like to know how that minimal damage is going to hurt his bearings. As I understand it (and could be wrong) all that you are losing is speed when your prop is dinged up like that. I would just switch props and take the dinged up with me on the trip as a spare in case you do something worse to the backup. I'd also check the markings on the props to see if they are different pitches. Many boaters, including myself, have props for different purposes. My stock prop gives me the best top end speed but struggles to get the boat on plane when I've got lots of people and gear on board. My other prop drops down in pitch to give me better hole shot. Your backup may also be different.
The skeg is what concerns me the most. It may cause the boat to want to turn. Of course, the worst case scenario is that it will pull more than usual on this trip. I would take it in after this next trip to have someone else correct it. I'm not a fan of bending metal back because it tends weakens it further. An example is the pop top on a beer can. Bend it once to open the can and it's still strong enough to hold in place. Bend it again and it pops off.
. Be better to at least be prepared with a spare, it is a trip saver when you really fold one up.
