Synthetic Oil Verses Standard Oil ?

[al1026]

I am about too give both engines Volvo Penta 2003 4.3 GXI basic service
Boat recent purchase , old owner indicated he used synthetic oil ?
On my mercruiser I never used synthetic oils

How many qts of oil on these engines with filter assuming 5 qts ?

I maintain engines, don't think price of synthetic verses a quality 10 w 40 is worth it ?
Also I always used straight 30 on my mercruiser ,
On the Volvo engines was told by a marine guy he uses standard quality 10w30 oil , no synthetic. ( says not worth the price ) ?
Volvo Oil ?? little better or paying for the name .
If engines did have synthetic and I use a quality 10w40 will anything happen ??

Thanks
Al.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Starting an oil threat is bad mojo. If you searched the site you would find thousands of oil threads beating the topic to death.

Use what your manual states, don't use what your manual states.

 

[StarTed]

The synthetic camp is sold on synthetic and for good reasons. They use them and have good results.

I don't waste my money on synthetic, rather use it changing oil more frequently. Here are a couple of my experiences.

My father bought a 1950 CJ3A a year old and used a quality SAE-30 oil and changed it every 1000 miles. After 60,000 miles it was burning oil so my brother and I tore it down and rebuilt the engine. The crank mic'd standard and the bore was worn less than 0.009 but not exactly round. We rebored it. My mechanic friend who did the boring said that it had very little wear for the miles.

I bought a new mid year Nissan pickup in the fall of 1986. I only used Valvoline 10W-40 and changed it every 3,000 miles. I drove it 265,000 miles then gave it to my eldest son. He drove it another 100,000 miles before some valves burned. the engine was never opened before we decided to rebuild it. We took a engine machining class at a local community college in the evenings. When we removed the head and mic'd the cylinders we found no ridge and less than 0.0005 wear. We just honed it and put in new standard size rings.

I believe a good quality motor oil kept up to level, clean and not allowing any dirt to get inside is all that is needed from the lubrication. Keeping the engine in tune and from overheating also help the oil do its job.

 

[GA_Boater]

This is for a 4 stroke outboard, but an oil thread is an oil thread. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...engine-topics/10088432-which-oil-to-use-40-wt

The subject has been beat to death and we continue :deadhorse: in that thread. We don't give up easily until everyone follows the manual. Or ignores said manual and the wisdom of our learned members, which is what happens anyway. But that only occurs after everyone is mad at each other. Then we discuss the merits of ethanol until we're all mad at each other again.

Seriously - Glance though the linked thread. It comes down to doing what you feel comfortable with, Old Dino has been lubing our motors far longer than synthetic. Both work and neither will destroy your motor. Whatever you use, be sure it meets V-P's requirements for viscosity and service. You'll be OK.

 

[alldodge]

Come on guys, many get their post counts up using these things, and there fun to watch how opinions turn into facts
Don't want to be late opcorn: :couch2:

Been using straight 40W until last rebuild, (builder wants me to use 20w-50) I don't were jackets while boating

 

[bruceb58]

The Volvo manual for 2003 says to use synthetic oil for best performance and endurance. Choose the viscosity based on your temp. See page 90.

http://pie.volvopenta.com/ViewFileFr...005&lang=en-GB

 

[thumpar]

I use diesel oil in my Merc (different EPA rules). If you are using oil that is right for your temps it really doesn't matter. Like Bondo says about grease, any oil is better then no oil.

 

[HT32BSX115]

I maintain engines, don't think price of synthetic verses a quality 10 w 40 is worth it ?

This sure does get a lot of attention!

If you want to use what most manufacturers suggest, read the following, ........ then pick one of the registered oils.

https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/fc-w

But........If you do a little searching around, you'll find that just about every oil available has been tried and used with no apparent ill effects.

ymmv........


Rick

 

[StarTed]

I was doing some research for oils for my Honda 90's and discovered that the recommended oils are no longer available at any reasonable price. The Honda 90 uses the same oil for the engine and the automatic clutches. It requires a certain amount of friction to make it work properly.

I found that diesel oil (15-40) is made with Zinc added. That is what is needed according to my research to make it work properly. I haven't tried it yet but that is my plan when I fix them up to sell them. Haven't used them in years.

 

[HT32BSX115]

I found that diesel oil (15-40) is made with Zinc added.

You do know that the "Zinc" ( [ZDDP] Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates )is actually being reduced/phased out in new formulations of "diesel" oil.

Well, since you mentioned it, there's actually a LOT of information on wet-clutch oil requirements and what should (and shouldn't) be used.

AM$OIL, as much as I think they're way overpriced, actually does have a pretty good description of what should be used in (motorcycle) engine oil when shared with a wet multi-plate clutch ..... AM$OIL TSB


I think there's only 1 I/O that has multi-plate clutches (Yanmar ZT350) And they specify the use of GL-5 oil but I suspect that they have specifically designed the friction material to work with extreme pressure additives. (Few, if any motorcycle clutch plate friction materials are designed to work with EP additives.)

If a Honda 90 is a 90hp outboard engine, Non-Repair Outboard Discussions might be a better place to discuss multiplate clutch outboards....... (except Honda outboards use dog-clutches.)

If you're talking about motorcycles, I'll bet oil types for clutches that share crankcase oil have been beat to death for as many years as they've existed (in Motorcycle forums) !

Probably not much in common with an I/O though or a Velvet drive (which uses ATF)


Just saying.......

 

[StarTed]

HT---

I was talking about a Honda 90 motorcycle although Harley owners usually shudder when I use the two words together. It's probably been over 25 years since I've driven either. All the parts are here to fix them back up but they're not hurting anything sitting in the shop except for taking up space.

Maybe I should fix them up and get them out to someone that'll use them. Hmm, I could use the space.

 

[WIMUSKY]

The Volvo manual for 2003 says to use synthetic oil for best performance and endurance. Choose the viscosity based on your temp. See page 90.

http://pie.volvopenta.com/ViewFileFr...005&lang=en-GB

The link didn't work, Bruce. It didn't say Volvo synthetic, did it?

al, in most cases use synthetic, don't use synthetic. Doesn't matter. If your manual calls for synthetic, I would use it if it were me. As far as brand, pick your favorite(whatever you use in your vehicles) and use the viscosity that is recommended......

As far as zinc/ZDDP, your motor is new enough where that is not a concern.... Extra zinc is recommended for the older stuff because they didn't use hardened valve seats, at least that's the reasoning. Some disagree....

 

[bruceb58]

The link didn't work, Bruce. It didn't say Volvo synthetic, did it?

For some reason, all the Volvo owners manuals are not available online right now.

It did not say Volvo synthetic by brand.

 

[WIMUSKY]

For some reason, all the Volvo owners manuals are not available online right now.

It did not say Volvo synthetic by brand.

Thanks, Bruce....... I'm surprised it didn't say Volvo syn. You know how these manufacturers are these days...... Use "only" X brand...

 

[bruceb58]

Thanks, Bruce....... I'm surprised it didn't say Volvo syn. You know how these manufacturers are these days...... Use "only" X brand...

Volvo is one of the few that doesn't.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Extra zinc is recommended for the older stuff because they didn't use hardened valve seats, at least that's the reasoning. Some disagree....

I'm one of them.

It wasn't for valve seats..........It was for flat tappets. Newer roller follower engines don't need "Zinc" much at all. (NO flat tappets)


The hardened valve seat "wives tale", was more a leaded fuel thing.

(Although I know a LOT of people [me included] that used NON-leaded fuel including propane in engines that were from the leaded fuel era and never had a valve seat problems!!)


73 and Merry Christmas everybody!!!////Rick

 

[WIMUSKY]

I'm one of them.

It wasn't for valve seats..........It was for flat tappets. Newer roller follower engines don't need "Zinc" much at all. (NO flat tappets)


The hardened valve seat "wives tale", was more a leaded fuel thing.

(Although I know a LOT of people [me included] that used NON-leaded fuel including propane in engines that were from the leaded fuel era and never had a valve seat problems!!)


73 and Merry Christmas everybody!!!////Rick

I was on an old car forum and that was debated multiple times.....:car:

 

[bruceb58]

Oil has nothing to do with valve seats since oil never touches them...at least it shouldn't.

 

[thumpar]

Oil has nothing to do with valve seats since oil never touches them...at least it shouldn't.

I have seen plenty of cars throw out a big huge blue smoke signal. Maybe they should run with zinc oil. But you are right it shouldn't. The leaded gas was for the non-hardened seats but the engines usually wear out naturally before that is an issue. When my dad rebuilt his mustang he had hardened seats installed but only because he had to redo the head anyway.

 

[bruceb58]

I have seen plenty of cars throw out a big huge blue smoke signal. Maybe they should run with zinc oil.

You should probably take off a head and look at it sometime. Valve seats are not an area that get oiled unless your engine has bad valve seals or bad rings.