Do I need to "warm up" lower unit lube before changing

[gt2003]

I'm winterizing the boat today and changing fluids. When I run the engine to get it up to temp before winterizing, will that also warm up the lower unit oil? I really don't want to have to run the prop for it to heat up. Or, should I just let it drain slowly and not worry about warming it up. Alpha 1 Gen 2 outdrive

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Everything but the prop shaft turns with the crank shaft, so it'll warm up some,....

 

[hosteter]

Dont need to warm up.just let it drain out.i do so.maybe other warm it up.dont know.it works by me.

 

[thumpar]

I just pull the drain and vent then go in the house for a beer and when I am done it is drained.

 

[JustJason]

When I do gear oil changes I pull the top and bottom plugs. Stick my pressure tester in the top hole, and pump 3 or 4 psi in it... It comes out a lot quicker that way.

 

[Scott Danforth]

When I do gear oil changes I pull the top and bottom plugs. Stick my pressure tester in the top hole, and pump 3 or 4 psi in it... It comes out a lot quicker that way.

be careful - it also sometimes sprays all over your shirt when it gets to the end using this method :facepalm: however it does make short work of draining

 

[Alumarine]

It's often around freezing when I change mine.
If my boats at the lake I'll take it for a run to warm up the lower end oil.
I keep the new oil in a sink of hot water to make it easier to pump.

 

[airshot]

I always remove my outdrive for the winter, this gives me time to look things over and be sure all is good for next season. It stores in my heated garage on a homemade stand. I remove both plugs and let it drain for a couple weeks to be sure everything is out. Then refill and ready for next season. You will be surprised how much is still dripping out after a week!!

 

[stonyloam]

I pull the plugs in November and refill in May. As a matter of fact checked it today. Only had about 25 hours on it this summer, so I drained an ounce or so and it was perfectly clear and no hint of cloudiness from water, so will just top it off in the spring and go.

 

[Fun Times]

I keep the new oil in a sink of hot water to make it easier to pump.

In cooler weather that's actually a good idea as there is a real concern mentioned in marine service school some years back that any excessive pumping action while adding new cold drive oil could lead to excessive pressure build up within the stern drive damaging O-rings and seals. If the oil is hard to add while cold, the slower the pumping action you do, the better off you may be.

I pull the plugs in November and refill in May.

As I'm sure you have read here before, you'll want to be careful with this method as the wrong weather environments could lead to internal rusting of gears, bearings, etc. quicker....It's considered best to not let them sit without oil for a long period of time.

 

[H20Rat]

In cooler weather that's actually a good idea as there is a real concern mentioned in marine service school some years back that any excessive pumping action while adding new cold drive oil could lead to excessive pressure build up within the stern drive damaging O-rings and seals. If the oil is hard to add while cold, the slower the pumping action you do, the better off you may be.

Although warm oil is a good idea and easier to pump, it has zero impact to pressure build up. The pressure inside the drive when you are pumping oil in should never get above 0.00000 PSI. The outdrive isn't sealed at this point, you are pumping in the bottom and the top vent plug is open, it is impossible to build up pressure.

 

[stonyloam]

As I'm sure you have read here before, you'll want to be careful with this method as the wrong weather environments could lead to internal rusting of gears, bearings, etc. quicker....It's considered best to not let them sit without oil for a long period of time.

IMHO never ever going to rust, especially if there is no significant water in the oil. It is an aluminum housing filled with 90 weight gear oil. In order to form rust you need oxygen, water and exposed iron. Every bit of iron is coated with high viscosity oil, so any risk of rusting just about zero. What I do is pull the plug to make sure there is no water in there, and if not, don't worry about it. Yeah I do mine at least every other year when I do my impeller, but if you think about it your tow vehicle differential oil sees a lot harsher service than an outdrive, and you almost NEVER change that. Anyway just my thoughts.

 

[JustJason]

be careful - it also sometimes sprays all over your shirt when it gets to the end using this method :facepalm: however it does make short work of draining

My catch pan sits just inches under drain hole, which is more or less on the ground. I try to make it a habit of not laying on the ground next to the catch pan. It can take 30 minutes to drain or 5.... And time is money

 

[JustJason]

I keep the new oil in a sink of hot water to make it easier to pump.

I can't say I've done it with gear lube. But I do it with rattle can spray paint. I also shake said paint by hose clamping cans to a ground off blade with no teeth that I stick in my cordless sawzall.... Warm paint + a sawzall shake can make rustoleum spray like DuPont out of a binks spraygun.

 

[crazy charlie]

pull the driain and vent and go do something else and come back tomorrow or the next day.I go with minimal effort on something like this.Charlie

 

[gt2003]

It's been draining for a couple of weeks. I've heard of others leaving the plugs out all year and only refilling in spring. I'm going to refill this weekend.

 

[HT32BSX115]

It's been draining for a couple of weeks. I've heard of others leaving the plugs out all year and only refilling in spring. I'm going to refill this weekend.

I have found that my Moeller oil suction device will suck out the gear lube in a very short time (minutes) .

All you need to do is find or make a hose fitting that will screw in to the drive drain hole. Be sure to remove the upper plug so you don't produce a vacuum in the drive.

Synthetic gear lubricants (Merc HP, Mobil1, Am$oil, etc) will flow very quickly even in cold ambient temps (one of the reasons you want to use syn gear oils)


Regards

Rick

 

[gt2003]

Thanks all. I got back down to the boat storage today and got it done. It was a pretty straight forward job and now I can relax until the weather warms a bit. Thanks for all of the input.