prealpha out drive power ratings

thestigmach1

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I have a 1969 mercruiser 160 with a matching prealpha outdrive. I'm wanting to do a overhaul on the engine and turbo it. I've videos of this engine on the automotive side with a turbo and it produced around 260hp. Can the outdrive handle that kinda power?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... That drive was used with 260hp,....

I'm thinkin' you'll run outa gears, before ya break it,....
 

Scott Danforth

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I have a 1969 mercruiser 160 with a matching prealpha outdrive. I'm wanting to do a overhaul on the engine and turbo it. I've videos of this engine on the automotive side with a turbo and it produced around 260hp. Can the outdrive handle that kinda power?

make sure its a marine rated turbo (water cooled housing and exhaust) - Max temp 198 degrees. if not, a 1500 degree turbo housing in a boat is a recipe for an explosion.

however for 260 hp, I would build a 292 or drop in a 350 vs dealing with a turbo
 

thestigmach1

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The reason I'm leaning toward a turbo is because it'll be fairly less expensive than a 350. I can't find any used 350 marine motors or even automotive to convert worth the money. I don't have any marina near me worth sneezing at so I can't pull one out of an old boat. I was planning on converting the intake and exhaust to automotive style and attaching the turbo to that then running the water line just after the turbo and out the exhaust. It would be oil cooled in my ideal set up. Plus an added electric cooling fan because I don't like how hot it gets as it sits. What was the biggest engine they attached to this outdrive?
 

thumpar

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You will be running some crazy high temps in a very enclosed space with that plan. Turbos don't fit the for the way boats run anyway. They are meant to make power at high RPM. They can be tuned with different wheels but a bigger motor will get you the torque that works best in a boat. The 350 is a good idea. You can pick them up all day long from a truck at a junk yard. We have one here where you can pull one for $165. Just make sure you find the truck that is wrecked so you know it didn't end up there because of a bad engine. You would want to change the core plugs to brass. The water pump and headgaskets could be changed too but I would only do that if running is salt, just my opinion.
 

Bondo

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What was the biggest engine they attached to this outdrive?

Ayuh,..... The MC-1 was used with 350s, but Yer drive will only support yer I-6, because of the gear set in it,....
 

RogersJetboat454

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Cars and boats may share the same base engine, but are completely different entities all together when it comes to fooling around with them for extra power. You usually can't get away with doing the same things to hotrod a marine engine than you do to an automotive engine, at least not at a reasonable cost.

Quite honestly the cheapest, safest, and best solution to getting more power out of your boat is finding another boat with more power. It sounds heavy handed, and probably something you didn't want to hear.

When you start talking about adding automotive parts to your boat to make it faster, you really need stop and think why rational people aren't normally doing this.
Here's a couple for you to consider;

Safety
Certain fuel, ignition, and electrical parts are marine rated for a reason. It's NOT so they can charge you more money for the part. It's because if that part fails, its less likely to cause a fire or explosion. Dozens, if not hundreds of people find this out the HARD way every year. If they're lucky, all that gets damaged is the boat and their pride.

Reliability
Marine engines work in a very hard environment. Unlike a car, they are under constant load. Fuel and air mixtures are critical to keep the engine from detonating, which will blow holes in the pistons. Cobbling together a bunch of parts from various sources with out any thought or knowledge of their relationship is a recipe for a very short lived marine engine (or any engine for that matter). When that engine fails, where are you going to be? There's a 99.99% chance you wouldn't be any place where you could get out and walk. All you can hope for is that you're not on fire or sinking, and you have cell service or radio contact.

Just my .02?
 
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johnkom

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Had a neighbor some twenty plus years ago buy a nice "Elvis Presley" style run about inboard. Real pretty wood hull boat with a blown engine. But he was a hot rodder and was going to blow all the other lake boats out of the water after he and his son rebuilt it. They did. Blew the engine up on the fourth run. Bad piston, he said. So he and his son worked all summer really souping it up. Hi lift cam, pistons, four barrel carb, etc. Blew the engine on the trial run. He sold the boat and went back to street rods.

JK
 

Rick Stephens

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Main reason a turbo isn't such a grand idea, other than the blowing yourself up safety issue, is that boats require the most power when starting out. And then they have to maintain that power throughout the range of the engine. Turbo'd engine on a car works 'cause you have gears to run through, you can keep the engine RPMs in the turbo's power range - there are no gears on a boat.

On a boat you pick the one gear that will do everything by picking a prop that has the right design and hits the right RPM at full speed and wide open throttle. Different design props can make for an easier hole shot allowing an engine to spool up easier at the bottom end, but that is insignificant to a turbo. If you have a turbo that kicks in at 3500 RPM with enough boost to increase the HP significantly, you still have to get the boat up to 3500 while only using top gear.

That's why most boat engines have fairly mild cams. Doesn't do any good to have a power curve that is really weak at the bottom and ramps up at 6k RPM to a screamer. Takes only a few times trying to get out of the hole to use it up and the turbo just made things worse, and a lot more stressful on the engine without improving low end performance. Sure, maybe you get 10, or even 20 more MPH. But you have to prop UP to do that, which also degrades low end power and increases stress. A zero sum game.
 

Scott Danforth

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Think less of building a hot rod motor, think more of building a truck motor hauling 2 tons of cement up a hill in sand in 4th gear.

that being said, as indicated, plenty of 350's in salvage yards and in salvage boats. for the cost of a good turbo (not even the plumbing or manifold), you can get an entire running boat with a waterlogged hull on a trailer.
 

thestigmach1

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As I said in my other thread I have been trying to find a boat like that for months but northwestern missouri doesn't do boats apparently. The closest marina is over 2hrs away and I receive more reliable answers talking to my dog, hence the reason I'm on a forum. Anytime I find an old 70s 350 out of a truck that actually runs they want some ridiculous price for it. And I still have to figure out how to get it home because for some reason the people that sell these things won't at least load on the trailer. As far as the turbo and automotive parts go I'm not just going to put it all in seal the lid to engine bay and have at it. The plan calls for more ventilation using blowers and cooling fans. I'm working with a shop to decide what need story be done to the motor to make sure it can handle the turbo. I just need to make sure the outdrive can handle the new power, which i think I only got one answer to on the thread for that.
 

Bondo

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The plan calls for more ventilation using blowers and cooling fans.

Ayuh,..... Yer buildin' a Bomb,.....

Without water cooled parts, the fans will just feed the Fire,...

A runnin' 350 chevy can be found for under $500. on craigslist,.... 'ell a brand new long block is under 2 grand,...
Rotten boats are a dime a dozen this time of year on craigslist, nobody wants to store a rotten boat,....

Yer plan just ain't gonna work for a multitude of reasons, many noted in one or both of yer threads,....

As I said, the MC-1 was used with 350s at 260hp, but yer drive will only support yer I-6 at under 200hp, because of the gear set used,....
 

thumpar

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I doubt you are going to make more that an extra 100hp so it will handle it. Those motors are industrial motors so you will have a hard time gaining much with a turbo.
 

Scott Danforth

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LKQ in the quad cities has 350 V8's for $100 - you pull. (and all LKQ u-pull yards have overhead A-frame hoists that you can use to load) any pre 1985 V8 will take the flywheel you have. you are only pulling the long-block. the rest of the motor can not be used in a boat.

drive gearing will be wrong.
 

thumpar

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Even if the turbo makes that much more power it will be like the ratio is off. It will just be unusable though. To use the top end (where the turbo makes power) you need to go up in pitch and may never get on plane since you need the use the low end torque to do that.
 

thestigmach1

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LKQ in the quad cities has 350 V8's for $100 - you pull." Quad cities? I've never heard of anywhere referred to as quad cities where would that be at. As far as the gear set used I know you can rebuild the insides of an out drive. Am I able to buy the rebuild gears for the 260hp version of the mc1 and rebuild mine?
 

Bondo

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Am I able to buy the rebuild gears for the 260hp version of the mc1 and rebuild mine?

Ayuh,.... Here's the gears,....

You'll also need the seal kit, 'n specialized tools for the task,....
 
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