Fluid replacement or not?

[orangeTANG]

I have a 2000 Campion with a 3L Mercruiser. This summer we didn't get a chance to use the boat outside of our 2 week vacation in early August, with less than 6 hours of run time. I'm getting ready to winterize the boat and I'd like people's opinions on whether I should replace all the fluids in the boat or just check them this year with such low hours of use. I run all Mercruiser fluids and religiously change the oils at the end of every season in the foot and engine. I grease and oil per the Mercruiser guide for winterization.

I'm debating instead of replacing the fluids this year just checking the foot oil for milk, check the engine oil level, grease everything, and antifreeze the block. I can appreciate that its better to be safe than sorry, but I also feel with such low hours this oil is likely still nearly new. I am in Canada so it will be cold if it makes a difference. I know this is discussed other places, but its normally with higher amount of hours than on my boat.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Drain the block (no need for antifreeze unless it makes you feel good) and change the engine oil at a minimum and pull the gear lube plug to check for water.

 

[alldodge]

I have a 2000 Campion with a 3L Mercruiser. This summer we didn't get a chance to use the boat outside of our 2 week vacation in early August, with less than 6 hours of run time. I'm getting ready to winterize the boat and I'd like people's opinions on whether I should replace all the fluids in the boat or just check them this year with such low hours of use. I run all Mercruiser fluids and religiously change the oils at the end of every season in the foot and engine. I grease and oil per the Mercruiser guide for winterization.

I'm debating instead of replacing the fluids this year just checking the foot oil for milk, check the engine oil level, grease everything, and antifreeze the block. I can appreciate that its better to be safe than sorry, but I also feel with such low hours this oil is likely still nearly new. I am in Canada so it will be cold if it makes a difference. I know this is discussed other places, but its normally with higher amount of hours than on my boat.

I wouldn't change the fluids and checking the leg will suffice. As for antifreeze (don't want to start an antifreeze thread) I would make sure everything is drained and be done with it. No need for antifreeze unless its just something you want to do after everything is drained

 

[GA_Boater]

Maybe a different take, but I would change the oil and filter in the motor. With such low usage and probably not used hard during those 6 hours, I would be concerned about the oil being contaminated by combustion byproducts that will be in the oil for another year with maybe 6 hours of use next year. New oil and a new filter are cheap.

You say you follow Merc's winterization schedule and change fluids religiously at the end of the season. Why change your methods when looking back at your older posts the motor and outdrive have been pretty much trouble free. Sounds to me like you have a good thing going and is worth continuing. Fate is a terrible thing to tempt.

As has been said in the forum time and time again, lack of use is harder on a boat than running her the way she's should be run.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Maybe a different take, but I would change the oil and filter in the motor. With such low usage and probably not used hard during those 6 hours, I would be concerned about the oil being contaminated by combustion byproducts that will be in the oil for another year with maybe 6 hours of use next year. New oil and a new filter are cheap.

exactly

 

[H20Rat]

If it were me, I'd say leave the engine oil alone. Highly unlikely you have much if any condensation in the oil from that small amount of time. I'd also open the bottom drive screw and take a look at the oil that comes out. If it is clean, leave it in.

 

[airshot]

I have also had years where my boat saw little use, as long as the engine oil still looks clean I leave it in. I do "always" check the lower unit oil for water contamination, let a few ounces run out to be sure then top it off again. Being the picky person I am, I also give the engine a light spray of antirust oil so no rust developes from condensation on any metal part. I remove the T stat when draining the block and make sure all hoses are clear of water. Now I am one of the few that adds antifreeze over the winter, not that it is needed but to slow down corrosion inside the block. Its cost is cheap and gives peace of mind. Yes I use the green automotive but drain and flush in my drive before going to the water next spring. In my boat if it needs it...it gets done...but not if it doesn't need it as in the case of your motor oil. My boat is a 1983 with original 3.0 and yes it is squeaky clean inside as well as outside that engine.

 

[orangeTANG]

Appreciate all the input everyone. I'm definitely tiptoeing around the antifreeze discussion myself - not going to go there. I did it this way because this is how i used to get the boat back from the shop when I paid others to do it (drained and filled, not run through while engine running)

I guess what I was looking for were absolute reasons to change the oils, things that can harm it over the winter. I know used contaminated oils don't sit well, but like I said, it was literally < 6 hours of use, mostly at 35MPH while heading out to the islands of northern Lake Huron.

I guess I have a decision to make.

 

[WIMUSKY]

If there is no sign of moisture in the oils and they look like new, I would leave them alone. Nothing "bad" will happen... I run a 4 stroke OB. I use synthetic oils and change them every other year. The only moisture I may see is very light streaking in the leg. More than likely from condensation from big temp. swings..... You might as well say I live on the south shore of Lake Superior. It gets very cold here too....

 

[thumpar]

You are probably fine leaving it but I will say for the small amount of money it costs I do change mine even with low hours. Another thing to consider is the impeller. If it hasn't been done in awhile you may want to do that in the spring at least. I skip the AF and just drain it.