Ignition points to Electronic - pros / cons

[gene8084]

1974 Thunderbird Formula 180, Mercruiser 888, Ford 302, Holley, non-vacuum Distributor.

After a year or two learning a lot through trial and error and a great deal of advice in these forum I've had years of success with this boat and system.

The one frustration has been the points system. While maintainable with practice, points can still really leave you stuck in the water. I've had two incidents in the past 3 years where I literally limped my way to the dock only to fine burned out points. Points that had been set to the proper dwell and for what I would think was fairly limited use, surprised me that it was time to replace.

I'm wondering how you all feel about conversion or replacement of the distributor to an electronic ignition.

A little background that leaves me on the fence. I installed an Ignitor conversion kit early on in this boat and then reverted to points. Memory fails me but I think I had other issues at the time and feared this was masking the problem. When I got the boat running well on points there seemed no need to covert. I ran 5-6 years thinking I'd made the right decision. I also used an Ignitor conversion kit on my 1952 Ford tractor and went back to points when the Ignitor failed a year later. Failed = uncontrollable vibration and nothing to adjust to resolve it....except reverting to points or buying another Ignitor.

It's these experiences that led me back to the forum that taught me a lot and got my boat running.

I'm leaning to a full distributor replacement over conversion since it's an old boat, no proof meter, so I have no idea how much wear on the current distributor.

Thoughts / opinions?
Manufacture recommendations?

Gene

 

[Rick Stephens]

Do it. I don't have a manufacturer recommendation for a Ford, probably Pertronix, but it is a slam dunk that you'll get better service from electronic ignition.

Rick

 

[thumpar]

If you had the original Ignitor and left the ignition on it would burn out. That could have been the cause of the failed unit. The Ignitor II doesn't do that. I put one in the my old boat and loved it. My dad has one in his 1966 mustang and it has been going for almost 20 years now.

 

[bruceb58]

Were you setting your points with a dwell meter? Did your ignition system have a ballast resistor in it?

I am more of a "keep the points" person. I feel they are more reliable than Pertronix.

 

[Silvertip]

The nice thing about points is they are simple to change on the water if needed (assuming you carry a spare). But burned points are due to lack of a ballast resistor or leaving the key on with the engine stopped and the points are closed. There really is no simpler system that a point ignition system. It is just that people can't seem to wrap their heads around the two-step adjustment process (gap/dwell and timing).

 

[gene8084]

I do set the dwell with a meter, and I've actually perfected the process. I honestly don't know if I've got a ballast resister. If its stock on a 1974 Mercruiser 888, yes, otherwise I don't. Please tell me more about what to look for (ballast resister). I do recall a resistance wire that I removed for the Igniter and put back when using points. I'll have to review my notes, but I know I have it setup as designed.

After the last close call I ordered two full sets. Points, caps, rotors and condensers so I'll have a spare. I keep my meter on the boat.

 

[bruceb58]

Turn ignition on, close the point and then measure voltage for the positive side of the coil to ground. Should drop down to 7V or so. If it does, you have a ballast resistor.

You change your condenser when you change points right?

 

[gene8084]

Thanks Bruce. Looked at my notes. The resistance wire is the ballast resister.

Yes, I've changed the condenser at the same time I've done the points. It may be overkill, but I also change the cap and rotor.
So I guess the questions are:
1. How many hours running between checking dwell again?
2. How many hours before routine replacement of points condenser, rotor and cap? Seasonal / Hours running?
3. What increases rate of wear on points?
4. If I was to replace the distributor with a new electronic design, what's the outlook for issues / maintenance / reliability?

Thank you all. Good discussion.

 

[bruceb58]

I always checked my dwell yearly and changed my points then or every other year. In addition, whenever you check/change dwell, you check timing.

 

[JustJason]

Also make sure your key isn't turned to run when the engine isn't running.

 

[gene8084]

Got it. I'm the only driver and always remove the keys when it's not running.

 

[airshot]

While I have never had a point issue on any of my engines, the previous owner of my current boat did switch over to electronic ignition. I must say it is quite convenient not having to mess around with checking points. The only issue I had was I kept going thru ignition coils....about one per year. Last year I updated to a flame-thrower coil and have not had any issues, and much easier starting.

 

[JasonB]

I had a pertrpnix igniter ii on a '76 mercruiser 888, I also had a pertrpnix flamethrower coil and mag tech marine wires. Ran that setup for about 10 trouble free years. Made starting a bit easier, though it seemed to limit rpm on the top end for some reason. Second best starting upgrade I made was to replace the original starter with a marine pmgr starter.

 

[Silvertip]

Do you have a stereo system that requires the ignition be turned on to power that system? If so, then rewiire it so it can be operated with the key off. Points have two wear issues. Rubbing block wear due to lack of cam lube and electrical wear due to burning. Dwell and timing will not make the points burn or wear if it is out of adjustment. In the day, cars would run thousands of miles without the need to replace points. It is also highly unlikely that points go bad as quickly as you imply (fine when leaving the dock and suddenly dead in the water). There is an underlying issue you need to identify. Improper installation, wrong coil, or sub-par components come to mind.

 

[Lou C]

I have to agree with this last post, Ive been running this boat with points for 13 years and have only had to replace them 2x in that time. Each season I check to see if they are starting to burn then I replace em if not I set the dwell , timing and idle . Keep in mind that when we had points in our cars the normal replacement interval was 12k-15k miles. If you convert that to hrs it's at least 2-3 season Id guess. Even then in all the years I drove cars with points; I was only stranded once when the condenser failed on my '65 VW Beetle. 20 min of work and back on the road.

 

[WIMUSKY]

This issue has been debated for years. Not only in boats, but also with the old car crowd. Points work great. Yes, you should carry a spare so you can replace them on the water if they fail. I had the whole replacement kit like you at the ready.... Your points should last years. May need to clean them periodically. Your wife/girlfriends emery board works well.. Although, you still can't beat an HEI distributor or a Pertronix electronic ign module. I had the Pertronix III. It has a rev limiter. I also used a Accel Super coil. I believe the instructions say to remove the ballast resistor. Either setup is virtually maintenance free. Set it and forget it. Change out the cap and rotor every now and then and that's it.

My thought has been, if points are so great why don't we still use them? Progress.........

 

[larrythorson]

I switched my 305 GM from Petronix to Mallory HEI and I would never go back. They arent all that there supposed to be