1984 Mercury 70HP Mercury Outboard wont turn on clicks

[PDX2531]

Hey everyone, I've been searching and using the advice on different threads for the past 2 weeks, but haven't had any luck in getting it started. Here's the deal: The last time the engine ran was in November, before the winter started. The engine started up fine back then with the occasional "turn the key and no crank" Im finally getting it ready for the fall crabbing and salmon, but as I tried to turn it on at home, the engine wont crank. All I get is the solenoid clicking as I turn the key. So I decided to charge the battery, which tested out fine. Still no crank, just clicking. I put in my trucks new optimum battery and still no change. During my troubleshooting, the ignition switch broke so I had the local Marine center order me a new switch. When I removed the old switch I noticed it was cracked and scorched...maybe water got into it? Well, I put in the new switch and still only get he clicking. Next, I decided to clean ALL the connectors that lead from battery, solenoid, and starter. Still no change. Next step I replaced the solenoid, but still no change. The last step was taking the starter out, opening it up and cleaning it out. I still only get the clicking sound. I think my next step will be to replace the positive and negative battery cable since they look a bit old. What else should I be looking at? Sorry for the long story, my father and I really want to take it out in this fine weather. Thanks for all the help!

 

[tpenfield]

New starter :noidea: or maybe get it tested.

 

[PDX2531]

My father took it to autozone, but the guy told him that he wouldn't be able to test this type of starter??? I think a new starter will be my next move.

 

[Texasmark]

Before you do that, get a voltmeter and measure the voltage at the starter when you crank. Measure the starter input terminal with the red wire and the case of the starter. While cranking if you have 10v or more your supply system is functioning as it should. In that case I would agree with Mr. Penfield. If you have less than 10 you have a problem back in your wiring. When you clean the terminals it's the inside, where metal contacts metal that matters, not the outside where it looks pretty. Every once in awhile a crimp on a cable will be bad. You can take that voltmeter and walk back to the battery by putting the leads across each connection. If you measure any voltage you have a bad connection there.

 

[PDX2531]

Before purchasing a new starter, I decided to inspect all the wires leading from the ignition/battery leading into the engine. I FOUND THE ISSUE!! Looks like the main wire harness form the ignition that leads into the engine was spliced. Two of the multiple wires were completely cut; one of those wires was the yellow/ red stripe ignition wire. So I found some spare electric wire, connected them and she cranked over!! When I get off work today ill see if she turns on. I can either solder the wires back together and cover them with waterproof sealant or should I buy a new harness? How much would it cost and where can I purchase it? Thanks for the help.

 

[Texasmark]

I can either solder the wires back together and cover them with waterproof sealant or should I buy a new harness? .

O'Reilley's has crimp connectors that join two ends of a wire for wet locations. You need the connectors and a crimping tool which they sell also. Tool usually comes in a kit with connectors but they usually aren't the water proof type. Tool usually looks mickey mouse, stamped steel with plastic handles and all but it works. The wire stripper part of it will give you a quick wire size idea. Select the right terminal and use the corresponding color on the crimper jaws. Red are small like 18 AWG, Blue med 16 and 14, and Yellow 12 and 10. The seal is heat sensitive.......use your gal's hair dryer on high heat and low speed to melt the sealer for a water tight seal. Put it back in the harness and wrap with electricians plastic tape.....they have that too or just tie wrap it.