Power Pack/Coil Pack help

Skeeter54

Seaman
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
60
Finally made it back to trying to get my motor running again. Still no luck

1984 115HP Mercury

History:
NO SPARK

new spark plugs
new fuel line all the way around
rebuilt all 3 carbs
rebuilt fuel pump
new solenoid (why not)
tested Stator (good)
tested trigger (good)
disconnected mercury switch (still nothing)
disconnected white/black jumper from pack to pack (nothing)
disconnected harness and jumped solenoid (nothing)

Only things I think to be checked are power packs and coil packs

anyone have bench test instructions for power packs and coil packs?

After I check this Im guessing I will have to do the dreaded tow to the shop so hoping for the best.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
If no spark on any of the cylinders you have a shot CD, otherwise would have spark on each individual plug showing that Ignition Coils are all in good working order. Is it possible to remove CD and take it to a engine shop to have it tested with appropriate measuring instruments ? If that's the culprit, buy a new CD and install it yourself.

Happy Boating
 

Skeeter54

Seaman
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
60
Sorry still fairly new to this. When you say CD or switch box were talking about power packs correct?
 

Skeeter54

Seaman
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
60
Just making sure all my bases are covered. I read in another thread a guy had the same issues and ended up replacing the switch boxes and it didn't fix the problem. I know when I first got it I checked everything I could including removing the flywheel to check stator and trigger. Someone also mentioned a shear pin in the flywheel being bad. Could that be an issue?
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,035
Your motor should have a "W" cut in the flywheel and crankshaft, vs a woodruff key. Mercury-speak for powerpack is "Switchbox". There are troubleshooting procedures for switchbox and coils on the CDIElectronics web site.

Ign coils should have .02 - ,04 ohms resistance on the primary winding. Nearly a dead short. Secondary winding should be 800-1100 ohms.
 

enginepower

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
260
When you say "tested stator" and "tested trigger" was this just an ohm reading or using a DVA and checking voltage output? Sometimes ohm readings don't verify a good working part, need to check it's voltage output. If you have stator voltage and trigger voltage input to the switchbox and your kill wire isn't grounded, switchbox dead.
 

Skeeter54

Seaman
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
60
Thanks guys. Got my hands on some switch boxes. I'll let you guys know how it goes. One last thing, friend of mine told me there was a spray I probably wanted to shoot in each spark plug hole before I ran it since its been sitting so long or I could potentially burn up the Pistons. True? And what is it called
 
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