Please help wits end Thunderbolt ignition

[mercuryman80]

Well I have been thu the whole ignition on my 82 80 blueband inline 4 new primary wires all coil packs stator , trigger switchbox checked the resistance all wires new plugs new wires twice plenty on spark to all cylinders , I still have blue arcing at night to block, wire wire thottle arm and corona effect or blue flash over the ceramic insulation on spark plugs , I think the only thing I haven't replaced is the voltage / rectifier .. The new plugs I did twice I didn't solder them and I only have one ground strap from cowl to engine block all grounds checked cleaned and replaced. I cannot for the life of me find out why I'm leaking voltage , there is no noise and it actually runs pretty decent considering hoping someone on the forum can shed light cause I'm lost , Man down tks for reading !

 

[mercuryman80]

read some past posts and someone said that the TBolt ignition was very hot and could easily jump an inch or more from insulated wires. Can anyone corroborate this and any suggestions on where to go from here? Thanks for all the responses and help.

 

[emckelvy]

Does the switchbox mounting plate have all of its ground straps attached? And are they going to a solid ground on the engine block?

According to the Merc parts diagram/list, there are (2) ground straps for the switchbox. These should come off the switchbox mounting screws and the other ends goe to the block. If these straps are not present, or just connect to the mounting plate, it's not properly grounded.

There's definitely a problem when the throttle arm is glowing! :0

BTW there should be (2) ground straps going from the lower cowling to the mid-section. One per side, as I recall, attached with stainless philips screws. You could make your own but they're not very expensive. These are the straps that are made out of Belden Braid wire.

Found some on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=46933+STRAP&_sop=15

The powerhead does not require a ground strap itself, since it "hard-bolts" to the mid-section.

Something that can help with leakage around spark plug & coil boots is dielectric grease. Most auto parts stores will probably carry the stuff. Non-conductive, it's fairly thick and will help seal the rubber boots from electrical leakage and water. I did a search and Permatex sells a 7-oz tube for under $10 and that would probably last you forever!

HTH & let us know what you find..............ed

 

[Faztbullet]

Corona effect is not unusual on this ignition..Try a wire tie around boot to stop arcing.

 

[mercuryman80]

Thanks Ed and bullet for the replies , Ed I will check that's a great point on the switchbox I'm not sure i saw any ground straps from the box to the motor , the 4 wires from the coil ground to the upper and lower screws on the box but I don't remember seeing ground straps there i will check this out , thes the throttle arm and number 4 wire were blue with arc ugh bullet it's no so much the boots all are new and proper but you could see energy around the insulation white blue circle rings around circumference of plug I will try some more dielectic grease . I have one ground strap from cowl to block will add the second on and report back on box ground straps , do stay tuned and tks guys !

 

[mercuryman80]

Are these the same type of strap fom the box to the block.. Braided ? Or is it just a gound wire from plate to engine ?

 

[emckelvy]

Just regular ol' ground wires for the switchbox, so you could make up some with some 12- or 14-gage primary wire and solderless crimps. The originals use marine-grade wire so would be more durable, but the home-made ones will do in a pinch. The OEM's are around $8.00 each.

 

[mercuryman80]

Ed I looked at the switchbox when I got home from work and there is only one ground off the switchbox screw that goes to a bolt securing the frame around the water jacket , I'm thinking of running a ground from the bottom screw to the starter ground , I just put the missing braided ground from cowling to midsection so there is now 2 like factory . I'm hoping this second ground off the box does it both the top and bottom screws have the coil grounds to them .

 

[mercuryman80]

I will report back over the weekend when I have a chance, btw does it have to go directly to block or can I use ground mentioned above ?

 

[emckelvy]

I will report back over the weekend when I have a chance, btw does it have to go directly to block or can I use ground mentioned above ?

Starter ground should be pretty good. I would move the existing switchbox ground off of the cowling support frame and run it to a solid point on the block (or the starter as you see fit).

The cowling support bolts down to rubberized mounts on the powerhead, so there's not much of a good ground thru that.

 

[mercuryman80]

Well I moved both grounds o the starter an it seemed to help some , thou I still have some arcs wire to wire and a Cple to the block. I'm really confused I will try to test resistance on my new plug wires they are not soldered but down with fan nd crimp any other thoughts could it be. Main harness or eitherv1&2 or 3/4 I have not changed those or the main harness that's ll that's left I haven't replaced ...ughhh

 

[mercuryman80]

I'm gonna ck the resistance in the new plug wires maybe there bad ?