1973 1150 TOP hard initial starting??

Streffpilot

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 22, 2012
Messages
140
Ok, starting to plan for this year.

Last year, my engine would be very hard to start. I tried everything I could think of. Changing the priming amount, changing the warm up lever position, playing with the choke. Always took many tries to start.

Once started and warmed up, even after an hour or two of sitting fishing, it would literally start as soon as I bumped the key.

So what might my problem be with the first start of the day? It is embarrassing to sit at the dock fighting with the motor, plus it's not good for the starter either.

Any help is greatly appreciated.


Btw, motor runs great once started. 5300 rpm, 39-40 mph gps 17" pitch Solas 4 blade prop.
 

mr 88

Commander
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Nov 3, 2010
Messages
2,122
They love fuel to start up and what I did was put in a one way check valve [ ebay 3/8 fuel check valve] next to the primer bulb.The bulb has been replaced numerous times because it would never stop bleeding down a tiny bit. Now when I prime it the fuel stays where it is supposed to be,in the carb.After the bulb gets hard I keeping squeezing it,which is forcing more fuel into the system and this method primes the reeds much quicker than cranking the **** out of it.It starts up pronto using this method.Choke it for a second or two on your initial start up as well as using your warm up lever.A older Merc guy told me about there hard starting and how to overcome it,it works.
 

mr 88

Commander
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Nov 3, 2010
Messages
2,122
BTW it starts up right away after the initial start up because you have fuel in the system and it hasn't bleed out or dried up from sitting over night.The vapors/gas residue sitting on the reeds are enough to fire it up immediatley........ This site won't let me post after there is about 5 replies so I have to go back and edit the last post I made to reply. Two strokes are just about impossible to flood out , unlike a 4 stroke.Before I hooked up the one way valve I would start the motor up at home on muffs because it would always start in the driveway without the back pressure,then head right for the ramp. Like you noted once it started up for the day you were good to go,same thing starting it in the driveway.It would always fire up at the ramp after I did that even if it was a hour or so later.Gas was in the system.
 
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Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,557
I vaguely remember that same problem on my later model 115. One thing that helps besides the answers given could be the choke butterflies. I don't know if that engine still had the manual choke but I think it did.....solenoid operated separate butterflies and interconnecting rod from the electrical control. Makes a difference if they are slightly open.

Mark
 

Streffpilot

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
140
They love fuel to start up and what I did was put in a one way check valve [ ebay 3/8 fuel check valve] next to the primer bulb.The bulb has been replaced numerous times because it would never stop bleeding down a tiny bit. Now when I prime it the fuel stays where it is supposed to be,in the carb.After the bulb gets hard I keeping squeezing it,which is forcing more fuel into the system and this method primes the reeds much quicker than cranking the **** out of it.It starts up pronto using this method.Choke it for a second or two on your initial start up as well as using your warm up lever.A older Merc guy told me about there hard starting and how to overcome it,it works.



I always figured I was over-priming it, and was worried about flooding it. Apparently this is NOT a concern on initial start up....
 

Streffpilot

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
140
I vaguely remember that same problem on my later model 115. One thing that helps besides the answers given could be the choke butterflies. I don't know if that engine still had the manual choke but I think it did.....solenoid operated separate butterflies and interconnecting rod from the electrical control. Makes a difference if they are slightly open.

Mark

My choke butterflies are all connected together and are operated via electric selnoid. They are a all or nothing affair.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,616
Whats happens is after your last run and you take it home tilted up, the residual heat in engine evaporates the fuel residue in crankcase. When you go to restart it your having to wet crankcase and supply fuel for combustion, what usually happens is the engine burns it up fast than it can be supplied resulting in crank,hit,crank,hit till engine finally starts. There a 2 ways around this: 1) prime till firm and give good hard squeeze to flood carbs and it usually hit...2) install a kill switch and disengage it when cranking and chocking for several seconds, this keeps engine from burning up the prime. Reinstall kill switch and crank as usual.
 

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
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14,557
My choke butterflies are all connected together and are operated via electric selnoid. They are a all or nothing affair.

Yeah but aren't there adjustment screws where you can tweak each flap as compared to the position of the positioning rod? Or maybe one isn't and the other two are.
 

Streffpilot

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 22, 2012
Messages
140
Yeah but aren't there adjustment screws where you can tweak each flap as compared to the position of the positioning rod? Or maybe one isn't and the other two are.

Well now you have me intrigued. I'll have to go take a look at it sometime. (It's in storage at work right now)
 

Georgesalmon

Lieutenant Commander
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Apr 14, 2012
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1,793
I think they are all hard starting cold. Mine is anyway. Choke the heck out of it as already stated. Wish merc would have put choke butterflys on all three carbs instead of just two of them.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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What I have done is install one of the fine OMC electric primers on the inline 6 cylinder engines.--------No more hard to start issues after that unit is put to work !
 

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
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What I have done is install one of the fine OMC electric primers on the inline 6 cylinder engines.--------No more hard to start issues after that unit is put to work !

I had that and fuel delivery problems at WOT. That boat ran 6000 rpm when I had it on the pad and setup and I literally ran the engine out of fuel. I thought I'd install an automotive type electric fuel pump in the line between the tank and engine. That proved futile. So I cleaned up my fuel line, shortened it and rerouted some of the bends which worked.

Mark
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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FWIW, I installed a third choke plate on my inline six. Guess what, it made no difference at all.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Install the OMC electric primer.--That ends hard starting issues !
 
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