94 black max 200hp oil system delete

[joshgar8]

I have a 94 200hp black max 2.5L I am wanting to remove the oil system on. I have searched the web over and came up with many dead links on exactly how it's done to maintain the function of the over heat alarm and water temp gauge. Can you guys give me a step by step on how exactly I need to do it. I will try and explain what all had been done previously. Sorry for the lengthy post but I just got this engine and the guy I got it from knew less than I do about it. He claimed the oil system was working properly but after getting home I find the fuel is as blue as the sky in the old rotten boat the motor was hanging on, that tells me there is something going on.

Here is what I have done so far. I removed the oil reserve tank that's infront of the flywheel. I removed all the lines common to the tank. I removed and plugged the hole in the block where the pressure line came from on the starboard side under the starter. I removed the oil fill cap/float switch and one wire along with a ground wire. As far as the pump goes. I removed the oil line from the reserve tank to the oil pump and the linkage running from the bottom carb to the oil pump. The oil line running from the oil pump went directly into the fuel line before it went into the fuel pump, I removed that and replaced the fuel line minus the T fitting. I do not think this fuel pump has the 1/16 npt fitting I have need plug because the oil is going into the fuel line before the fuel pump. Now when I turn the key to run it still beeps 3 times and when I attempt to crank it it is a intermittent beep until the key is switched off telling me it's low on oil in the reserve tank that no longer exists. I expected that until further removal of the proper components. I have the oil pump block off plug ordered but plan on letting a mechanic install that, I didn't want any issues with the brass bushing getting loose. As far as the two black boxes, what needs to be removed and what wiring modifications needs to be done from this point. Thanks in advance and sorry for the lengthy post, Josh

 

[Dukedog]

Of tha 2 "black boxes", one will have 3 wires. A white/red, white/black, black. It stays at this point. Its "another story".....Remove tha other box with all tha wiring coming from it. This will have no effect on anything temp related but you will no longer gets any beeps when tha key is turned.....

 

[joshgar8]

So the wiring coming from that box I will just disconnect from the terminals on the starboard side all close to the switch box? Will this allow the overheat alarm to continue to work? After that is complete all that's left is the removal of the actual oil pump and install of the block off plug? Thanks Duke!

 

[Dukedog]

Yessir, that's it. Tha oiler and over heat use same buzzer but different circuit going through tha module. Guess ya could say tha ot sensor and module alarm circuit are in parallel with module's only purpose is oscillate tha signal......

Plug kit is two screws, o-ring and done. Needle nose ta reach in tha hole and remove pinion gear. Almost tha easiest part of tha whole thing...........

 

[joshgar8]

I got the plug kit in the mail this evening. I am planning on removing the module in the morning. What is all the noise I read about the brass bushing behind the oil pump pinion gear possibly falling into the crankcase? That's the only thing that has me gun shy about installing the kit myself. If it's not a issue I will go ahead and get it installed in the morning. As far as the other black box, the idle stabilizer I believe, what should I do with that? Leave it at the moment? Thanks again Duke!

 

[Dukedog]

Leave it right now unless ya up ta doin' a little timing practice.....

There is bushing that's "pressed" into tha front half of tha block that stabilizes tha pinion shaft. There is a very slight chance of it workin' loose when tha pinion is removed. Only time I've seen this happen is in an overheat condition. You will notice a "stem" on tha plug that replaces tha pump. Replaces tha pump shaft's job on retaining tha bushing...... .

 

[joshgar8]

I plan to verify the timing is correct and not to high at WOT but that's after I get this taken care of. With the engine being new to me and not knowing the history, I want to double check everything. I will get all we discussed squared away in the morning. Thanks for your info Duke. I'll follow up after all is complete. Verifying timing will be later on. It looks as if the starter is new along with the flywheel and stator. When they replaced all that they failed to reinstall the flywheel cover so I have no timing pointer to use at the moment. Thanks again Duke.

 

[joshgar8]

Duke, I did exactly as you said and everything worked great! I did trace the tan/blue wire from the cylinder head to the terminal and grounded it with a jumper wire and the over heat alarm sounded with the key on. The old inline that was on the hull didn't have a over heat alarm so all that is working as it should within the console. It's off topic I know but how would I check to ensure the temperature gauge is working? The inline didn't use a temp gauge so I cannot verify that all the wiring from the engine plug to the gauge is correct. Can I remove the sending unit and apply heat with a heat gun to see if the needle moves? I understand the easiest would be to simply run it on muffs but it's raining like crazy and cold and I have yet to verify nobody has messed with the timing. Thanks again for your info, it was a easy job!

 

[Dukedog]

Tha gauge sensor will be in tha PORT head if your motor has one. It was an option with tha motor. It will be tan that will plug into a short tan sticking outta tha MALE side of main harness. No way to verify accuracy with out a temp gun........

 

[joshgar8]

I took the sending unit out of the port head and attempted to heat it to see if the gauge was registering and it wasn't. There could be something going on with the gauge itself or the wiring going to it. My next thing is the timing verification as soon as I get a flywheel cover. With both, oil in the gas in the old boat and the oil system still in place it has a high concentration of oil dripping out of the exhaust. The guy I bought if from claims it ran good, I don't see how. He must have mixed 6 gallons of oil to one pint of gas plus what oil the oil system was putting in it. I plan on running it on the muffs the next decent chance I have. Maybe it will clear it out some. Thanks again for your info Duke, it was very helpful getting that oil system squared away!

 

[Dukedog]

With both, oil in the gas in the old boat and the oil system still in place it has a high concentration of oil dripping out of the exhaust.

Bluish tint or black n gooey?

 

[joshgar8]

Duke, it is black and not really gooey. It looks like used diesel oil. I hope it's not what you are thinking (prop shaft seal). It looks to thin to be gear oil. It looks more like two stroke oil with the carbon from the exhaust. I ran it about 20 mins Friday on the muffs and think I got most of it cleared up I hope. I haven't looked at the garage floor since I ran it though. The fuel the guy had in the tank of the rotten boat looked like pure oil, just thinned out with alittle gas plus it appears the oiler was in good working order. I am going to look into the lower unit oil maybe tomorrow. I want to change it and inspect it for water/metal due to the motor being new to me. I am planning on in the near future having the timing/link and sync verified. Would it be beneficial to go ahead and remove the idle module prior to getting the timing and link and sync done so that won't be a headache down the road? I have read horror stories about those things and don't want to live one. I understand that after removing that box it's a good idea to use a indicator on all 6 holes to verify which one is the most advanced, and then set the timing from the most advanced hole. Is this necessary or just a good practice? Thanks Duke!

 

[Dukedog]

What I'm thinkin' is unburnt fuel/exhaust gases. Usually loaded up carbs/lnjectors, non firin' cyl's and/or timin' or any combination of these things. Drips out all black n sooty......Timin' ona a "production motor" will be fine set at 22/23 degrees on # one @ crankin' speed unless ya just wanna do all six. Up ta you. Set finale idle timin' on tha water, in gear ta what ever makes tha motor and you happy...........

 

[joshgar8]

I am sure you are right on the loaded up thing. There is no telling how long it has been since it has had decent fuel or been blown out real good. I am planing on trying to set the timing but due to limited experience I will take it to Faztbullet and get him to verify its right and run it on the water to get it all squared away. I don't have allot of confidence in my timing/link and sync work. I don't want to burn up a piston!

 

[Dukedog]

Excellent. You'll be in good hands............

 

[joshgar8]

Alan is a good guy, he knows these old mercury's like the back of his hand. He has done several jobs for me in the past. I just try to get as much done as possible by myself and not worry him to much about the little things, that's why this site is great. All the knowledge right at my fingertips. If it wasn't for guys like the two of you allot of people would be paying those high dealer labor rates for simple fixes that can be found by asking questions on here.