1990 115 mariner 4 cyl.

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
Having problems missing after idle, it's a 2+2 and as soon as you go above idle it starts missing but will kick in sometimes after about 30 seconds but the rest of the time it will not.badly confused! Have cleaned carbs and still no better! Help!!
 

Iceman66

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
199
Checked out your fuel-line, prime bulb,fuel connecters, fuel pump,fuel filter, sure you have cleaned the carbs and main jet properly?
Checked out the linkage, does the trigger move smooth and freely?

Here is a useful link about ignition troubleshooting,look at page 81 and 82:
http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs...owFlipBtn=true
 
Last edited:

gbrowne9

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 1, 2010
Messages
102
i had the same problem when i first got mine, turned out to be a bad ignition wire on one of the bottom cylinders.
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
I have spark on 3 &4 cylinders when idling but I'm afraid to check above idle out of the water don't want to over rev motor. So I guess what I need to know is what test can I do on elec. with a multimeter? Or what on the fuel can check out of the water but on the hose to check carbs? I keep hearing about carb activation pump I see it but how do you check it?
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
Ok thanks for the info will try to order a DVA adapter, sorry that was an over site in your post. Did notice today that bulb does get soft after about 10 minutes or so! Is that normal?no fuel leaks anywhere though! All responses are appreciated.thanks again Iceman!
 

Iceman66

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
199
Ok thanks for the info will try to order a DVA adapter, sorry that was an over site in your post. Did notice today that bulb does get soft after about 10 minutes or so! Is that normal?no fuel leaks anywhere though! All responses are appreciated.thanks again Iceman!


No problem!
Pretty sure your problem is an electric one, but try with another portable tank if you got one and connect it directly to the engine fuelpump,
if engine runs the same, you can exclude fueltank,bulb,fuelconnecters being the cause.
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
Ok got the DVA adapter on the way been cold here! Just wondering is the spark suppose to be the same on the bottom 2 cylinders at idle or a little after, or on a 2+2 does the spark increase after idle.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,047
Agreed .----Nothing changes to spark on 3 & 4 at idle.----Fires the same as 1 & 2.------------The bottom 2 cylinders do not get enuff fuel to run at idle.
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
Sorry I have not posted in a while bad weather and kids playing ball. So I got a DVA meter I have 250v on blue/blue white and only 90 on red/red white is this correct? And should I get a voltage reading on the coil because my meter will not read it? Thanks for your help sorry it took me this long to post back!
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
You can test several things, but frequently electrical problems may only show up when the motor is actually running, coils, wires, connections, etc. can all test out good, but fail under a load.
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
thanks for all the help on this! I think i found my problem yesterday finally really inspected the fuel pump and bingo found a crack in the diaphram
hope this is it! thanks again and I will post back to let you know
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
ok just put new fuel pump kit in,now have no oil and gas mixture coming through filter and alarm is sounding,before i could pull filter off and pump gas and oil out using primer bulb but not now. shoulnt there be mixed oil coming out of pump going to carbs?Really stumped now! Any help is thanked
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
ok just found the alarm going off the sensor cam out of oil tank! now just the oil mixing problem,just kinda thinking after looking futher into it the oil pump must be gear driven so if i hook up a portable tank and let the engine run would it prime the oil injection? just dont want to hurt the engine!
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,544
Till you get things sorted I'd run 50:1 pre mix in the gas tank. Oil pump is gear driven and needs to be primed so that when you look at the clear oil hose going into it there are no bubbles. Repair manuals tell you how to do that . Seloc at the upper right of this page is an online subscription. I have subscribed a couple of times and worth the money....for me. That same subscription will give you the correct DVA readings also. As others have said, the 2+2 setup is that fuel is limited on 2 cyl. up to about 2500 rpms such that there isn't enough to explode and generate power. If the linkage is setup properly, owners say that you can't tell when the second 2 kick in. I don't know. Mine was the little brother 90 triple.

Fuel pump has a couple of check valves that you have to get installed correctly for it to function. Since the crankcase pressure is pushing and pulling, you have to let the right one in an out at the right time.

Bulb being soft, not collapsed, while running is what you want.

Mark
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
thanks for the help i took a extra tank with premix until oil pump primed.now it runs better but still a little miss at wot, took an extra tank with me so i could pump bulb to make sure it wasnt fuel pump no change! talked to a friend and he said it could be plugs im running a L76V champion he told me to get some NGK BUHW and problems will probably go away (we'll see) i feel im getting close everything i have done was needed and getting a little better! Thanks for all input!
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
ok stiil have a miss at hole shot and wot after reviewing cdi website may have a bad rectifier or stator, i have ohm the stator but readings dont really make sense to me 6.88k on blue/bluewhite and105.1ohms on red/red white. the rectifier does have a little corrosion on yellow wires,just plain lost now!
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,544
Yellow wires are input from stators. Been awhile, I thing they go to your rectifier and have nothing to do with the triggers. If they go to a black module with black, a couple of red wires and a grey, then that's the rectifier/regulator/tach input/output and have nothing to do with triggers. Regardless, pull the connectors and clean them up, not outside but inside where metal contacts metal.

Mark
 

seminol7

Seaman
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
69
they are yellow wires with a grey in the middle,they are a little rusted like they've been hot! still not sure of the stator readings no where close to the cdi ohm readings thanks again for any input!
 
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