Should I remove my jack plate?

Dukedog

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,245
Hummm. Says it sent? Email? And don't forget tha part about tha motor not performin' like it should. 4900 is WAY to low on performance.........Also a "torque tab" can be discussed after you get this this worked out. It will help relieve tha steerin' thing. Tha "anode tab" won't be in play once ya get on tha gas...
 
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Bifflefan

Commander
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
2,933
First, it's not a problem with the jack plate.
I would guess that your prop is not in top shape, or is not correct for your boat. I believe it is loosing grip on the water.
You may also have to much weight at the back of the boat. Try evening out the weight if you can, or adding some gear to the front. Then start with a different prop, the plate all the way down, and full trim down. Play with the trim and see what happens. Raise the plate a 1/2" and start over. You will eventually come to the a point that you either loose hole shot, speed or the pee stream is weak because your to high. Lower it back to the best all around place.
Most plates I have used and seen are between 1" and 3" up from the bottom for best performance.

Second and most important:
Loose the fin on the vent plate. If that is there, then you have other issues and its just a bandaid.
 
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jsaylor

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 20, 2011
Messages
84
Just tested again, took the dolphin off kept the engine height at 5 inches, drove much better, steering felt great, top speed at 5k was 50. Raised the motor one inch, water pressure good, steering good, gained 5 MPH and Wot is now 5500, may raise some more. Still have to tuck the engine fully to keep from porposing under 30 MPH, this is ok. I'm using the hustler 19 four blade. Also upon getting on plane tack reads 4k, does this sound right? Next question: my SS turbo 3 blade with 1/4 inch vents is a dog out of the hole, would you suggest drilling to 3/8 ? I figure I can always plug them. Once again I thanks you all for your help.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,142
I still think your motor is too high on the jackplate. I know the RPMs are higher, and that is good, but the boat should not porpoise at that low speed. Remember, the higher the motor, the less effect trim has on it. I would drop it down and see if the porposing gets better. You can trim more to get the RPMs back. Stick with the Hustler prop until you get this sorted out. It is a good prop.

On-plane RPM should be 3000 or less. I have found that 5/16" vents are optimum, but vents only allow some spin up of the motor at idle, which is not your issue.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,557
Just tested again, took the dolphin off kept the engine height at 5 inches, drove much better, steering felt great, top speed at 5k was 50. Raised the motor one inch, water pressure good, steering good, gained 5 MPH and Wot is now 5500, may raise some more. Still have to tuck the engine fully to keep from porposing under 30 MPH, this is ok. I'm using the hustler 19 four blade. Also upon getting on plane tack reads 4k, does this sound right? Next question: my SS turbo 3 blade with 1/4 inch vents is a dog out of the hole, would you suggest drilling to 3/8 ? I figure I can always plug them. Once again I thanks you all for your help.

Moving right along. As I said before porposing is caused by improper boat/water/engine thrust relationships for the speed. When I mentioned getting OVER the porpoising curve you are experiencing what I said at the slower speed.....you are below the curve, porpoising, so you have to change something if you want to stop it. On my boat I tuck in the trim till it stops, unless I want to speed up and get on the other side.

Your 4k in the hole is probably your ports doing what they are designed to do and a good number if it occurs as the bow is coming back down from the shot: They allow the engine to unload in the critical hole where stresses on the engine are max. Allowing it to unload by running a mixture of gas and water over the blades and reducing the density of the medium lets the rpms come up which bring up the hp and hp turns the prop and gets you out of the hole; the faster you can "get em up" the faster the hole shot.

On port size, "size matters". Too large and that 4k may get to 5k and long hole shot with engine revving. Too small and might as well not have them.

I think 3/8 is a great number if it's right for your application. With your 4k at the end of the hole (assume that's where you get it) I think you are where you need to be. If working correctly, once you get underway, pressure of the water running by the prop will seal off the ports solidifying the medium across the blades, loading the engine causing a very abrupt decrease in rpms (500 to 1k sort of thing) and increase in speed. You should be able to detect this. On my Ranger, it was very noticeable and I used to get a kick out of waiting for it to switch.

Your 50 at 5k is a super number. Keep tweaking it and you may get on up to 5500 and 55 mph which is where my son's 150 ran on his 17.5 (18) ProCraft. Engine is rated for 5600 and you want to run at-near-slightly above (I do).

​On water pressure, your OT alarm switch closes at 195F so it you get too high and have no other way of knowing that you are running out of cooling water it will tell you. For a reference, my 2011 Silverado runs at 210 for the normal operating temp; so 195 isn't all that hot. A water pressure gauge would help and you should have a 1/8 pipe (plugged with a brass plug) on the right (starboard) bank water jacket. I think around 10 psig or so it what is expected at the higher rpms.

Mark
 
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