1994 Mercury 175 carb, loading up with oil at idle

[bkeese]

I have a 94 Mercury 175 carb model outboard. The powerhead was just completely rebuilt, I sucked the #1 ring. The engine runs great high speed and low. After a long idle through the No Wake zone, when I pull it back to neutral it will stall and it will be hard to start. After some cranking it will start and smoke us out for 15 seconds. It then clears up and runs fine again. Of course the stalling is when you try to dock it with everyone lookin. My double oil should be gone by now. Any ideas why it is loading up with oil? The idle may be set high. Any chance the idle is set too high causing the oild ratio to drop to 50:1 instead of the normal 100:1. I haven't got the tach working properly since the rebuild. Any tips on test the tach? How would I hookup my tester with a tach to test the rpms? What pins should I used? Will it work? Or does it need the Mercury tach?

Any help would be appricated. Oh yea the oil injection is working, it wasn't but now it is.

 

[Dukedog]

Its more than likely "loading up" with a fat fuel load. Even at 24 ta one tha oil isn't tha culprit. Sounds like an idle circuit, either mixture or timing or combination of both might be causin' tha problem. Could also be mech fuel pump. Could be idle timin' module. Just hard ta diagnose without being there. Until its figured out trim tha motor a touch above level when ya have it idleing. Might help a little

 

[sam am I]

. Any chance the idle is set too high causing the oild ratio to drop to 50:1 instead of the normal 100:1.

Not really unless the linkage to pump is install wrong(it can be done), but tend to agree w Duke, even at idling w 24:1 it would be smokier, but if fuel was correct, it wouldn't choke out like that.

Personally I'd re-check lync/sync and timing, then check.thermal air valve was opening when at running temp(would definitely run rich at idle if it was stuck closed), then turn idle screws in to 1-1/4(leaner).

At 1-1/4 it should be now on the lean'ish side. You can prove this by most likey needing to punch the choke now to keep it running. If this is the case, now dial it in w moving idle screws out a 1/8 at a time. Even a 1/16 of a turn on these pigs makes a diff, does on mine anyway..........GL.

 

[wired247]

I run 32:1 oil pre mix all the time. Makes no difference to the motor how much oil you run. Check your bleed lines to make sure they are all hooked up with no holes and your check valves where the bleed lines attach to make sure they are working properly. Adjust the carbs properly, make sure all the throttle plates are closed at idle etc.

Long shot here but both of your problems "could" be caused by a bad magnet that isnt firing your low speed coil on your stator and isnt reliably firing your tach signal from the regulator. Try switching the tach signal to the other regulator and see if the tach problem stops and just for giggle check your flywheels magnets.