first boat, need knowledge on mercury 1500

bigreed91

Cadet
Joined
Mar 2, 2014
Messages
10
Ok, the cap doesnt look bad so it might be fine to leave, compression needs to be tackled first anyways. I see a lot of people always have the motor off and on a stand when doing a rebuild. I was just gonna leave it on the boat, is there gonna be any issues with that?
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,616
Unless your really in love with this motor it would be best to find a different motor for the $$$ your going to spend. First #3 usually fails due to a trigger issue not overheat. If it was a overheat #1 and the others will be badly scuffed. All these motors will have wear the cylinder in the port areas and I can count on both hand the inlines I have repaired in 40+years that didn't need boring. So before you start buying wiring and such tear it down and inspect it. Boring and pistons will be about $900 not counting the other items needed and you will need to find a dealer that will rent or install crank and pistons as it takes special ring compressors as you install crank/pistons at same time.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,133
Yes, the block cannot be disassembled if still attached to the exhaust extension. Secondly, crank has to be removed to do rebuild. Third, block needs to be naked and scrubbed after boring.

You have to pull the powerhead and lay her on the bench. You will also need to pull all the pistons out and then reinstall them after new rings, bore etc. Whereas that can be done with special ring compressors, if you do not have them, you will need to remove the rods from the crank and manually reinstall all needle bearings with grease. Do not mix the bearings between rods. I use cups numbered 1-6 to hold cages and bearings. Mark rods 1-6 as well.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,616
How do you torque the rod nuts if you remove pistons from crank as there is no room it use a socket or torque wrench???? These do not use the cracked cap rods and use the cut rods. You are torqueing to a flat surface so torque must be equal on both side and hand tightening wont get it.
 
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