Hello all,
I been troubleshooting this engine for a few weeks and have been unsuccessful to this point so I thought it would be good forum reference material so I registered here to possibly get professional Mercury insight. I'd like to solve this puzzle rather than take it to the shop as I'm sure I'm missing something simple. Hopefully someone has been down this road and has good input.
So here's where I'm at.
I took the boat out for it's first event of this season about four weeks ago and experienced some sputtering. I laid the boat motor up for the winter with Sta-bil marine stabilizer in the fuel system. I've done that for 4 years with no other previous problems. The motor has never had any problems to this point. The sputter would clear for a short period and the experience it again. I thought fuel problem right away and pulled the filters and blew out the fuel in the system. This boat (Boston Whaler 170 Montauk) has two 6 gallon portable fuel tanks that were filled with fresh gas and I used some in the zero turn lawn mower with no problems. Still had the sporadic sputter after flushing fuel. I managed to run the engine at one point to about 3,000 rpms and all seemed to become smooth but after returning to idle it stalled. I began to think injector problems. I believe the Gaurdian Protection feature became active as I had no power much above idle to return to the ramp.
I knew a man last year that since retired at an outboard marine shop that downloaded the Mercury Troubleshoot and Repair Manual on a CD for me. I got the CD out and set out to see what I could do. All I had to troubleshoot at this point was a multi meter for ohms testing. The manual gives pretty good ohm specifics so I set out ohming all the possible sensors. I ohmed the cam position sensor and got an open value on two of the readings described. I ordered the cam position sensor and a week later installed it. I double checked the ohms of the new sensor as compared to the old and once again verified the old part faulty by ohm value. I had an opportunity to put the boat in 2 weeks ago and still only had reduced power as if the Gaurdian was active. I brought the boat home and ordered Rhina Technologies TechMate scanner.
The engine has 144.9 hours of operation with most of the time below 1,000 rpm as I crab and run a trout line. I read the following in the Fault History Screen:
145 hrs Fault #210 Neutral Overspeed (non-critical) I did while starting for a moment....no problem there.
102.5 hrs. #207 Lift Pump Timer (non -critical) Boat ran fine for next 142.5 hrs..... ok there ...
8.6 hrs. #236 Stop CKT active (non -critical) Probably hit the lanyard off way back when..ok there...
141.1 hrs. #206 Block Overheat (non- critical) Happens sometimes when flushing after use. ok for now..
140.8hrs #209 Driver Power Low (non-critical) This I wonder about..
I didn't have the battery in the boat and tried to jump thru with jumper cables to start with truck for a moment. I did this just to start the motor in early spring (cold but above freezing) for a quick turn over and warm up. The started sounded as it does with dead battery and I had to put the battery in the boat to finally start it. It started and seemed to run ok...dunno for sure it wasn't under load in the water.
144.9 hrs. #242 Fuel Vent Valve (non-critical) Probably faulted when I disconnected it trouble shooting.
Never saw a cam sensor fault so I assume that part wasn't bad after all. No diagnostic codes have ever been set. The history faults are now reset.
Now that I explained in detail all anyone can possibly do I'll tell you what the scanner is showing that seems peculiar. No codes or faults show unless I disconnect a sensor while running. I have 50 psi fuel pressure to the rail so I think I'm good there. When in the live scan mode the spark advance reading jumps as best I can read from a -2.0 to what looks like 10 degrees.....This doesn't look right to me.. You'd think that would be pretty steady. Also the reading for Power Limit and Available Power start off at 100% and slowly reduce to 10% after a minute of idle time. Wonder if the ECM needs reflashed? Any help out there?...Thanks
I been troubleshooting this engine for a few weeks and have been unsuccessful to this point so I thought it would be good forum reference material so I registered here to possibly get professional Mercury insight. I'd like to solve this puzzle rather than take it to the shop as I'm sure I'm missing something simple. Hopefully someone has been down this road and has good input.
So here's where I'm at.
I took the boat out for it's first event of this season about four weeks ago and experienced some sputtering. I laid the boat motor up for the winter with Sta-bil marine stabilizer in the fuel system. I've done that for 4 years with no other previous problems. The motor has never had any problems to this point. The sputter would clear for a short period and the experience it again. I thought fuel problem right away and pulled the filters and blew out the fuel in the system. This boat (Boston Whaler 170 Montauk) has two 6 gallon portable fuel tanks that were filled with fresh gas and I used some in the zero turn lawn mower with no problems. Still had the sporadic sputter after flushing fuel. I managed to run the engine at one point to about 3,000 rpms and all seemed to become smooth but after returning to idle it stalled. I began to think injector problems. I believe the Gaurdian Protection feature became active as I had no power much above idle to return to the ramp.
I knew a man last year that since retired at an outboard marine shop that downloaded the Mercury Troubleshoot and Repair Manual on a CD for me. I got the CD out and set out to see what I could do. All I had to troubleshoot at this point was a multi meter for ohms testing. The manual gives pretty good ohm specifics so I set out ohming all the possible sensors. I ohmed the cam position sensor and got an open value on two of the readings described. I ordered the cam position sensor and a week later installed it. I double checked the ohms of the new sensor as compared to the old and once again verified the old part faulty by ohm value. I had an opportunity to put the boat in 2 weeks ago and still only had reduced power as if the Gaurdian was active. I brought the boat home and ordered Rhina Technologies TechMate scanner.
The engine has 144.9 hours of operation with most of the time below 1,000 rpm as I crab and run a trout line. I read the following in the Fault History Screen:
145 hrs Fault #210 Neutral Overspeed (non-critical) I did while starting for a moment....no problem there.
102.5 hrs. #207 Lift Pump Timer (non -critical) Boat ran fine for next 142.5 hrs..... ok there ...
8.6 hrs. #236 Stop CKT active (non -critical) Probably hit the lanyard off way back when..ok there...
141.1 hrs. #206 Block Overheat (non- critical) Happens sometimes when flushing after use. ok for now..
140.8hrs #209 Driver Power Low (non-critical) This I wonder about..
I didn't have the battery in the boat and tried to jump thru with jumper cables to start with truck for a moment. I did this just to start the motor in early spring (cold but above freezing) for a quick turn over and warm up. The started sounded as it does with dead battery and I had to put the battery in the boat to finally start it. It started and seemed to run ok...dunno for sure it wasn't under load in the water.
144.9 hrs. #242 Fuel Vent Valve (non-critical) Probably faulted when I disconnected it trouble shooting.
Never saw a cam sensor fault so I assume that part wasn't bad after all. No diagnostic codes have ever been set. The history faults are now reset.
Now that I explained in detail all anyone can possibly do I'll tell you what the scanner is showing that seems peculiar. No codes or faults show unless I disconnect a sensor while running. I have 50 psi fuel pressure to the rail so I think I'm good there. When in the live scan mode the spark advance reading jumps as best I can read from a -2.0 to what looks like 10 degrees.....This doesn't look right to me.. You'd think that would be pretty steady. Also the reading for Power Limit and Available Power start off at 100% and slowly reduce to 10% after a minute of idle time. Wonder if the ECM needs reflashed? Any help out there?...Thanks
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