1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

[rpandassociates]

This all started when i bought a new car and transferred the tag from my aging lincoln to my new car and the lovely city code enforcement tagged my lincoln 31 hrs after taking the tag off it.."that has to be a record" at any rate, so i tried to sell it had ten days to do so or the city would take it. Couldnt sell it so i tried to trade it for a boat no luck car to old to ugly.

I was able to trade it for a tomberlin crossfire 150r new value 2-3k he was selling it for 1500 i was asking 1k for my car. So then i has this little dune buggy live in the city no where to drive it and no trailer to haul it on, sound slike a ticket in the making to me. So i got thinking well before i had the baby i lived on a 40ft silverton and i do miss the water,however we all know what B.O.A.T stands for regardless so i go trading again this time searching for a boat.

So i found this boat ill take some pics soon the ad states its in good condition... :facepalm: and we all know what that means. So i get there the whole interior wiring harness is missing over 80% of the insulation on all wires loooks like there was a melt down the switch box looks 30% melted, RUN dont walk .... Naturally i turn to this guy "good condition you say" at this point im getting pissed drove 30 mins towing this dune buggy for this. So I ask him and you say this runs?
it did when we parked it he replied, hook your battery to it itll fire up.
I look at the wiring again fat chance im shorting my battery out on this thing hot leads ground leads both missing insulation 1/8th inch apart........
so one more time and you swear it runs? Yes he says.
I replied look im going to take your word and if it dont, then you dont get upset when you find it parked through the front of your house.....
He thought i was joking... I wasnt. He said dont worry put a battery on it itll fire up.
I told him you put a battery on this itll fire up allright into a big ball of flame, pointed out the missing insulation and he scratched his head well that wasnt like that.

So i know i know bad trade well not if it runs. And i kinda believed the old man. So lets find out shall we.... ? Im going to need some help on this one for sure im new to outboards all together.

So step 1 going to replace the internal harness cdi electronics has one. First im going to test it before i spend that kinda cash on a harness so i soldered some broken leads and used about 3 rolls of electrical tape to tape up the bare wires.. I know i know thats not insulation.. but it suffices for testing what i need to test.

Okay wrapped everything up took forever to start typical from what i see in you tubes videos of first fire after long time in storage plus i had to manually do choke choke solenoid is no good. And then after reading this forum found out what the little black lever is a fast idle lever , im going to have questions about that. That helped it to start.

So it runs.....
No pee hole water so I shut her down after like 2 mins of not seeing any flow didnt get to play with it much I bought a new impeller water pump kit will be installing it this afternoon.

So on with my questions.

specs known thus far
serial number from the plate that is on the transom/tilt bracket im presuming this is the location of the serial number? if so then my serial # is 43954** now mercury site says it doesnt recognize the serial number however various parts catalogs etc. show it in the range and if so then the motor is a 1976
The boat is a 1984 does that sound correct? The boat is a 1984 montego ebbtide according to the title 16ft seems more like 18ft.

1. is this motor correct for this boat? did it come on the boat? is it typical for a motor to sit 8yrs before going on a boat? 1976/1984 thats one slow boat building factory... i cant find any pics of a 1984 montego with a outboard they all have a I/O but the hull doesnt show any signs of being modified meaning i dont see any patch work for a i/o cover up and who would of added the splash tray etc too much work..... unless i got the serial number for the bracket and not the motor? meaning its not a 76?

2. As noted I got it runniong had to shutdown no water flow. however during that time it was running i tried to back down the fast idle as it was idleing fast like a bat out of hell. as i got it most of the way down almost all the way off fast idle it would die, it fired right back up on the fast idle but as i tried to put the lever all the way down it would die. Probably need to clean the carbs? if so anyone have a good tutorial info for a beginner on this, what to use? i asked the local marina about seafoam they tolld me they dont advise it to use b-12 take everything apart spray it out etc. that seafoam will just deprive the motor of oil mix.

3. need info on oil mix what kind to buy how to mix it etc. i read somewhere 50:1 so thats 1 gallon of oil for every 2 gallons of gas? sound pretty expensive isnt it like 5$ per quart? no way you mix it like that?

4. as noted i am going to replace the water pump. so i removed the lower unit fun fun first one ever. And well im shaking my head the driveshaft is rusted, from about 1/4" above the pump to 8" below the splines, fortunaTELY NO RUST ON SPLINES or sealing surface in pump that appear to be stainless as if this shatft is stinless on half and carbon on the other very odd being a bonehead i tried to knock the impeller up the shaft with a rubber mallet. It got stuck half way up so i tried to beat it back down back up etc it wont budge. So i cut it off with a hacksaw blade by hand very carefully then split the brass hub, got it off currently trying to clean driveshaft up so new impeller will go on.
? is why is it rusty... shouldnt it be stainless steel?
? it seems as if there is some vertical play in the shaft about 1/4" or so it is in neutral but i was beating up and down with the mallet trying to get the impeller off .. whats the chance i damaged something doing so? or is this up down play normal?
? im going to prime and paint the drive shaft from below the spline down to the stainless in hopes of preventing farther corrosion what do you think about that idea? I asked the above marina about the corroded driveshaft they said dont worry about it unless it breaks. Basically insinuating it was normal. I dont know first outboard.... just dont seem logical.

5. trim tilt need help at its extreme points meaning if its all the way down you need to lift a little to get it to come up if its all the way up you need to push a little to get it to go down. Do i need to bleed this or something? i added a wee bit of fluid it seemed a tad low. And if i do need to bleed as its 30+yrs old anyone have any guides to how to ?
also someone please explain the functions of the unit, ive always seen up and down on tilt but never a 3/4 button system? maybe im a idiot but i get up / down what the hell is in/out in water out water? isnt that the same as up down? i dont see a jack plate functionality as in motor up down? sorry thats just plain confusing......

6. soft spot in floor.... whats the cheapest way to fix besides new plywood. fiberglass structural panel? anyone got any long term solutuions for flooring?


7. anyone got a downloadable manual they could share?


at any rate im sure i will have a billon more questions on this and im going to start taking pics/videos of the restoration process if i can. a idiots guide as i have no clue what im doing on a outboard should be funny. Im mechanically able though i use to be a car mechanic and well theres not to much i cant do i work on computers build houses plumbing electrical etc. so i have the skills to do this except the 2 cycle engine is new to me as well as boat structures and finishes fiberglassing and gelcoat etc thats going to be a whole new experience. Should be interesting enough to film..

Thanks in advance for any help and insight you all may have.

 

[mr 88]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

Way too long of a post,keep it short and simple.Drive shafts were steel,don't worry about it. 50-1 ratio is like 2-3 oz of oil to one gallon,many two strokes oil bottles have the ratio guide on the side.Most of your wiring issues can be spliced where there is some good wire left,like where it comes off the coils under the flywheel.Sometimes the weep hole gets clogged up and you can put a long zip tie in there to loosen up the gunk,95% of the water is discharged through the prop so if it was clogged the odds are you did not overheat her,but still throw a new impeller kit in it.The weep hole is a visible tell tale for you when your on the water to verify she is pumping,like I said that hole can get clogged but she is still working,low water pressure gauge is the way to go,the pressure is 4-7 lbs on them.Start with a compression test before you go any further,then one or two questions or problems at a time.

 

[rpandassociates]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

Thanks for the info especially the 50:1 info i was presuming the later. best to check first.

Okay so I replaced water pump as noted other one was oblierated. I sanded then used flitz to remove the corrosion

I then primed it with a rust converting primer

I then sprayed with some stove enamel appliance epoxy

I think itll be corrosion resitant now... let you know when i service it for a impeller again

Pulled the diff fluid no milkshake or visible shavings so i think im good there. once driveshaft dries ill go and reassemble the pump and slide her back in there.

question? should i use neverseize or wheel bearing grease or anything? silicone grease? white lithium? on the spline when i go to reinstall it?

and what type of lower end oil/grease should i buy from a auto part store preferbly. they are way cheaper than west marine.?

 

[mr 88]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

Any grease will do for the prop splines as it pretty much gets washed/worked off in no time anyway.Take your prop off at least once a season to insure it doesn't end up seized on the shaft.I would buy Mercury 90 wt for the gears,stick with the mfg.they put the correct additives in it for your Mercury and then you do not have to worry about your choice.DO NOT go cheap on any item you replace on your engine or your gas-oil consumables for that matter. Treat it the way you would want to be treated and she will bring you back to port on her own,not under tow...If you are concerned about a couple dollars difference in quart of 90 wt. you may be in the wrong sport.

 

[rpandassociates]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

OKay so , repaired wiring harness, replaced pump and impeller, removed corrsoion from driveshaft, flitz it, primered and epoxy stove painted it.
So Fired her up pleanty of cooling flow now...

cpl questions in this video the top carb is leaking from a screw hole on it... is also leaking out of the front of the carb.? whats this signify?

then is this much smoke normal? see video thanks

mercury 1150 115hp 1976 - YouTube

I also in the video am point to top of motor i swear i hear a valve ticking or something..? whats underneath this cover? any info on inspecting what to look for when i remove these covers? im hearing a ticking more so than a knocking you might be able to hear in video when i put cam by that side..

now the leak im quessing its a stuck float? figured i would ask before i go tearing into the carb and before i do so anyone know of a great tutorial or maybe exploded diagrams etc for this motor and especially carb.

i heard my library has some reference material Ive been told the seloc manuals are junk dont want to pay 40 to find out. and yes yes I know BOAT stands for "break out another thousand" but not in this economy...

 

[rpandassociates]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

another cpl questions i cant find a anwser no where for this one.
I have seen in many a forum posts and youtube videos etc. and people show different ways to engage the throttle without engaging the forward gears "accelerate in nuetral" so question being how do i do that with my mercury 1150 115hp 1976 the only button other than that cold start fast idle is the choke button above the key. Ive looked all over the control unit see nothing else. Now i also read that some outboards you can pivot the handle out say 30 degree or so they say about 1/4" from control unit then push forward, naturally my handle doesnt do that. If it does doesnt feel like it. Im not going to force it without asking. But i dont see any of those having that coldstart/fast idle timing? thingy? what is it it helps start motor ive heard it called this and that looks to me it advances the distributor? Like i said newbie to outboards.. bear with me i learn quick.

Tank Testing... any thoughts on this. As ive been reading you can get it running great on the muffs then have it crap out on the river. Well i have no intentions of paddling it to shore nor do i wish to pay sea tow etc. so can i build a tank to test it in? how big would it need to be? i know it would need to simulate waterline boat sits in but how many cubic feet would it take to simulate running conditions naturally a long trough would be necessary. above ground pool? i know crazy right maybe be easier just to get a trolling motor or additional small kicker? what you guys think it would take to push my boat back to ramp in event of motor failure think like a 56lb salwater trolling motor get me back? or would it be better to get say a little 25hp on one of those mount thingys? my boat is a 1984 ebbtide montego about 16-17ft hard finding any info on it all the ones i see are i/o drive this is definately stock for a outboard.

 

[carholme]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

Here is the parts list for your s/n:

MERC 1150 - Mercury, Mercruiser, Force, etc. Parts Lookup

Is this the type of control you have?

http://imageshack.us/a/img266/4852/46194058.png

If so, it does not have the feature you are asking about.

A plastic 45 gallon barrel with the top third cut off will suffice for engine runs.

The service manual you require is p/n 90-75512.

MORE SERVICE MANUALS

Gerry

 

[rpandassociates]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

thanks for the links and the info nice exploded view there looks like these carbs are going to be interesting to get into. Little parts- Big fingers....

yes that my control says merc control on the side Liked I said couldn't find that button anywhere ....

so brings me to my running tank thoughts would running in a barrel allow WOT testing? we got these big square green city garbage cans I think would make a great running barrel, have to dig a hole in the ground half bury it... with its big and square plenty of clearance for prop.

first gotta figure out the carb leak and then why is there so much smoke, someone here suggested it was fogged before storage.i can only hope.... judging by overall condition I doubt anyone took the time to maintain it I know for a fact it sat atleast 5yrs according to the registration sticker. small wonder it started at all. I got lucky.

 

[mr 88]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

No you can't build a test tank and run her wide open,you would need a hydraulic marine dyno for that. If you get her to run with the muffs and she idles okay you will be able to drive back to the dock if you have any high speeds issues.Do not run the rpms up too high,2500 when on muffs is about max unless you want to grenade her.

 

[rpandassociates]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

so long story short i foudn a whole bucket of nice parts for this motor for 60$ including 3 carbs. on these carbs where mine seems to be missing something and gas is leaking out and gas is leaking out top carb issue from above well these parts carbs have a bronze screw slotted head with a whole out the center . mine was missing these so i put them in.. whatever they are my carbs are no longer dripping out the front or the holes these went into... why would someone remove these?

so i run it in a barrell today when i was done i had oil ontop the water and unspent fuel... it doesnt smell olike lower end grease im going to drain that herre shortly make sure no water intrusion. However i removed and cleaned each of the plugs, i dont see no oily indication of water in the cylinder nor on the plugs now heres where the newbie quesiton comes in on my cars my plugs are usually bone dry.. my ignorance of 2 cyle comes into play, are these plugs suppose to be covered with oil and fuel? and if so since there all wet how would i find water as noted i dont see the typical oil sludge like whats in the bucket nor do i see any rust or drops of water.... can someone please provide me with a image of a typical plug should look like thats been ran? auto mechanic not boat mechanic but im learning..

 

[Yesterday]

Re: 1976 mercury 1150 115 hp Q&A help newbie to outboards

I'm convinced the brass fitting is an air-jet. Beware they are probably like fuel jets in that they're sized, and usually there are low and high speed versions. Aside from taking them apart, I hadn't studied Merc carbs so lets see if others will chime in.
2-Strokes burn and expel (some) engine oil. There is always some in the exhaust. Plugs usually shouldn't be but these marine flat-tops behave differently than most other plugs. the parts were from a same # of cylinders 1150 as well? If yes, should be good to go.

Dang, I have a gazillion pics but none of plugs. I'm testing my engine and can snap some later today for ya!