Mercury steering tube question

Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
27
I need a new steering tube for my mercury 40 1996 motor. I was wondering if the tubes cover a huge range of motors or I they are specific to that motor. Any ideas what years Nd sizes will fit my motor? I will likely be buying used off eBay and want to find the best price. Also, will a OMC tube work by any chance?
 
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Maxz695

Guest
Re: Mercury steering tube question

Most 20 inch short shaft motors are the same on a merc .Long shaft might be different. I wouldn,t try mixing an OMC. There are several on ebay from time to time. Most come with the yoke as well and are fairly inexpensive. Has the yoke spines worn away? Why are you changing it. If it,s just tuff to turn heat can fix it or dismantle and greese and reasemble it.
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
27
Re: Mercury steering tube question

I has a steering cable seized up pretty bad. So I got the tube to come out and realized if I took it all the way out, the motor would fall backwards off the stand. So I put another tube that I had in one end and started banging with a hammer. This was a terribly stupid mistake. The threaded ends must have flare up in the middle and now they are both wedged in there and I can't get them out! I am currently trying to think of ways to get them out. I think I'm gonna try to get the right size drill bit and try to drill the tubes out after cutting the ends off that are sticking out. Usually the only way I learn is by making these kind of mistakes unfortunately. So when I do finally get these suckers out I will need a new tube.
 
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Maxz695

Guest
Re: Mercury steering tube question

Yes i understand and almost made the same mistake until realizing the tube held the the engine to the swing arm. Pounding it back down and cutting the flared end off sounds like a good idea Has the powerhed been removed to get the steering arm bolts out? I cant see how it could be lifted up until it is seperated from the upper mid section mounts. It might mak the job a bit easier removing the lower as well as not to damage it and take the weight off the midsection and then can be removed from the transome bracket. It,s a bit more work but makes things easier.JMO
 
Joined
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Messages
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Re: Mercury steering tube question

The problem is that the flared ends are in the middle of the bracket so i can't get to them.
 
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Maxz695

Guest
Re: Mercury steering tube question

My bad I thought you where talking about the through pivot arm steering tube but you mean the tilt tube I assume? If you have a die grinder it might use a few wheels but it will eventually get through but be sure all gas is emptied and disconnected from the engine and a wet towel over the engine also helps with the flying spark issue. If you can get the tube far to one side and cut the outter portion off then caox it back the other way far enough to cut enough off the other outter end, there may be enough cut off both ends to let the middle drop out. The problem lies in the steering shaft though. Filing away at the buldged portion also may be a big help to remove most of the corroded area. Just a few thought that might be of help. Turning a hacksaw blade to the side as opposed to straight on should allow you to get in there on some angle and cut away the outter threaded areas. I would remove all cables for power and shifting throttle etc. before attempting the cuts. PB Blaster should be used inside and outside the tilt tube it is great stuff for breaking down rusty metals. If you have the steering cable out it shouldn,t be that hard but the penatrant will help you get that out by constantly moving the cable in and out.
 
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Messages
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Re: Mercury steering tube question

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Re: Mercury steering tube question

7222D6B2-BBD4-4711-8255-D3A802190BAE-4815-00000328EA595EE2.jpg
 

oldman570

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
1,615
Re: Mercury steering tube question

You can use PB Blaster sprayed on the tube with the motor layed on its side, so the penatrant will run down the tube. Then place a bolt of close to the same size of the cable end into the tube and try to turn the tube with a pipe wrench a little at a time while grinding the flared off while doing so. With the motor on the floor, or secured to a work bench, flat there is less chance of damage to the motor from falling and the weight problem should be of no issue. A little heat on the brackets might be needed to getting the tube to moving also. Once the flair is ground off and the tube has been turned, you should be able to pull it out of the bracket, or use a slide hammer to help remove it. JMO
Oldman570
 
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Maxz695

Guest
Re: Mercury steering tube question

BUMP ^ If you can move the shaft back and forth considerably and take as much as possible off both ends you can get a chisel in there and hack away the rest from both sides. If you cant get it all, it will relieve the amount of steel holding it in. Heat (torch will aid in removing the rest using the old cut off rod as a ram. This might be a last resort as opposed to finding a used bracket off ebay. I would remove the greese fitting and get any spray lube you can inside the bracket after cutting the shaft. any lube is better than none with the better part of the shaft removed will also allow you to get lube inside the bracket and help in disapating the corrosion. You may want to try torching it first before ctutting to get the shaft to move back and forth as much as possible before doing any cutting though. sorry Oldman570 we posted together [EDIT] I do like the through tube slot cut with a hacksaw though great idea. If using the cut off piece as a ram grind or file a small taper on the end your inserting into the bracket in case it mushrooms. This can also be a temporary tube left in the bracket holding the engine on until you get yor replacement . Be sure to lube the ram rod though.
 
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Maxz695

Guest
Re: Mercury steering tube question

mostly the outter shaft as a ram rod the inner steering shaft is stuck as well and would also have to be cut off at the bracket. Oldman stated to make a lengthwise cut through the center of the shafts after there cut off at the ends to lessen the binding and make it easier to give way. Also to lift the engine to relieve the weight causing binding as well.
 
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