Re: 1988 mariner 200hp tach question
88 V6 stock would have a 16 amp stator on it. 9 and 16 are pretty much interchangeable as they both use the same flywheel magnet setup.
12 and a little Volts on the battery is just the normal unloaded voltage, not charging. There really is very little load on the battery when the engine is running. Just oil alert and instruments. Ignition is all independent of the battery.
If you disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier, and measure resistance between them, it should be low, probably less than 1 ohm, but not shorted. You can also connect an AC voltmeter between the yellow (disconnected) leads and start the engine. It should read about 15V per 1000 rpm of engine speed.
A rectifier will run fine if you maintain your battery. The stock rectifier uses a 15 amp, probably 40 volt small can bridge rectifier, pressed into an aluminum plate and potted in epoxy. Almost guaranteed to fail if anything goes wrong anywhere in the system. Low water in the battery, or a loose connection will usually make them fail on excessive back voltage. I use a 25 - 35 amp, 200 volt or more bridge rectifier available at any electronics supplier and most electronics surplus suppliers. I get em a dozen at a time for about $2.00 each.
You can also wire in one of the 20 amp regulators that come on later mercury engines. They are a design that doesn't waste the excess power as heat, and thus run fairly cool, and are not dependent on the mounting for heat dissipation. They're bigger than a rectifier so you have to find a place to put a small mounting plate for it.
Long story short:
A. Test the AC output of the stator. If it's good (likely) then replace the rectifier, cheap is better in this case, and yer on the water good to go.
B. If it's good you can rig a VR for an upgrade.
C. If it's bad, put on a new stator and either A or B above.
Clean and tighten all your big wire connections.
hope it helps