Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

[wayne869]

I have an old Merc 1000 that you time with a special tool instead of a timing light. I am looking for some info on how to do this with a Dial indicator, I can find bits and pieces but not a full proceedure. I am waiting for a manual but wanted to get started. This is what I am thinging:

Find TDC with the dial indicater positioned in #1
Counter clockwise back the crank to .222
Set the total time screw "Points to just close" by using a ohm meter. (One lead on the points wire, one gronded) ?

Then to check for 1st minor thottle set #1 at (How many thousanths?) to equal 3 to 4 degrees BTDC and make sure points just closed

I already cleaned the points, replaced the condensors, and set dwell with a degree wheel. And the full throttle stops were all checked out ok.

Can anyone help figure out what the dial indication reading should be at 3 or 4 degress BTDC?
And will this proceedure work or is there a better way to do it?

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Noone have any ideas?

 

[kwik_uk]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

If you want I could try and take some photo's of my original Merc workshop manual when I get home later tonight?

I think there is about 3 pages. What is your exact model and year? Is it the '68-'69 Mercury 1000?

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

That would be great. I think it is a 68 Merc 1000. I would be interested in the pages on setting the Points dwell and setting the timing. Also timing the distributor if there is anything in there. I don't know if you can put the distributor in wrong after you remove it to set the points.

 

[merc850]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

The Merc 1000 was made from 1962-1965 with breaker points and the pickup plate adjustment is at .015". All settings are done thru the Nr. 3 plug hole using the Nr. 1 set of points (white lead) The dwell is 90* usually set with a degree plate that ensures correct phasing of the points. Read these instructions for best results

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Great thank you, do you have page 93?

 

[merc850]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Yep!

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Thanks for the pages. I have followed the manual to a T and still have a uneven firing engine. I have set my points as follows.
Downloaded degree wheel, printed and pasted to cardboard to get rigid
"I just picked red wire as I didn't find anywhere that said what set to use first"
First set closed for 90* so closed from 0 - 270 working in reverse on my degree wheel
second set closed untill 210*
I checked this many times and continued in the same direction at all times.

Not sure what I am doing wrong but it just don't run correctly.

It was running ok but decided to clean the points and replace the condensors to get a little steadier idle and performance. Now wish I hadn't..

When I checked my total time I used a dial indicator in the number 3 hole and put it @ .222 BTDC check my total time as book says and it was far off about an inch before stop so I didn't change it as I know it can't be that far off as it run prety well before I decided to break it.

 

[merc850]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

It sounds like you might have the Nr.1 points connected to the Nr.2 coil or you have set the Nr.1 points at the Nr.2 setting, either way the timing will be off.

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

So when I set the points what points are n1 and n2? What set do I use to set 90* dwell first? On the coils where does n1 coil plug into the cap on the side or middle?

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Do you have the page in the manual that tells how to set the dwell? Thanks alot for the help!

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Ok I took the distributor off yet again and re verified. I started with the white wire:
0 -270 points closed "Touching together"
270 - 240 Points open
240 - 150 Closed
150 - 120 Open
120 - 30 Closed
30 - 0 Open

Red Wire
210 - 180 open
180 - 90 Closed
90 - 60 Open
60 - 330 closed
330-300 Open
300 - 210 closed

This tells me they are dead correct but I still have a uneven firing engine, I tried to switch the white wire to the other coil and it would not even fire. What should I look at next? I did replace the condensors with some automative condensors could this be the problem? I also had to clean the points a lot but they still had a lot of pad left. The contact good "No flickering" when I test them by turning the distributor by hand. I also installed new coils from NAPA but they were looked up for that motor. The front coil number 2 is attached to the side terminal of the cap.

 

[Bigbearslayer]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

I don want to get too far off topic here, but I am in the same situation as you and I cand figure out how to get the rotor off to even get to the points. How do you do it.

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

There is a special tool to do it but I used 2 larger screw drivers and a piece of 1X1 board. Take the 1X1 board put it against the distributor body use the 2 screw drivers between the rotor one on each side very close to the center not to break the rotor and pry it off. It is just help on by an o-ring but mine was tight also. Make sure there is someone or something soft for it to fall on, they are expensive if you can find them.

 

[merc850]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Here's the first page of the procedure, are you using the plate in Fig. 2? This is basically two 12v auto ignition systems working together, have you checked the ballast resistors - they should be both similar values - the O-ring in the camshaft should be a tight fit and there should be a small nylon bushing inside the rotor at the top.When you finally assemble the rotor to camshaft put a few drops of Loctite on it to prevent rotor dropping. Also check the camshaft for side-play, the points hold the bearing down against a spring washer underneath it.

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

On the figure 2 of the diagram do you know witch set of points are #1? Someone has replaced my wires with red and white I just want to make sure I use the right set and hook the right set to the right coil

 

[merc850]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Whichever set closes when the pointer is at the "1st set points close" is the set for the Nr.1 coil, according to the image it should be the set closest to the wiring exit hole.

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Ok I still am not firing on all cylinders.. Here is what I have done to date just to give history to what I have:
1) Replaced total cable from switch in controls to the engine. I made a new engine harness because both harnesses were bad. I know this is correct because I have a schematic and followed it as I tested what I took off to verify it.
2) Replaced the Point with New and set the Dwell "first set" to 90* and second set to break 60* after
3) Replaced wires and new screw terminators bought from NAPA
4) Replaced distributor bearings
5) Replaced plugs "set gap to .025
6) Replaced both coils
7) Set total time at .222
8) Made sure first set of points were connected to Nr 1 Coil

I have between 110 - 119 Compression on all cylinders
It fires consistantly on #4 and #6
Intermitently on #3 and #5
#1 and #2 don't seem to change at all if you disconnect them
All cylinders are getting fire because the ones that don't fire are wet with fuel.

These are a few things I have found, the 2 resisters on the side of the moto say 12v on the side of them, when I test them they have 12v on both sides is this correct? I though they should cut the voltage to 9V?
The rotor button don't have a bushing in the top of it so it does rock a little.
The condensors are new but for a chevy truck does this matter?

I am really dubfounded because this should be a simple engine Compression + Fuel + Fire at the right time should = a running engine.....

 

[wayne869]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

It looks like someone really messed with this engine. When I put #1 at TDC my flywheel and distrib pully's don't lign up so that makes me think someone took the flywheel apart by the small bolts and put it back together out of time. Should my flywheel match the distributor pully with #1 at TDC or is this supposed to be off #3 also?

This engine is really confusing me, if the fact is the two marks are supposed to align at #1 TDC where should my rotor be pointing? at #1 with distributor at idle stop? and the second rotor terminal set to fire #4 next?

 

[merc850]

Re: Old Merc 1000 Timing and Link-Sync

Set the Nr. 1 cylinder to TDC then take the flywheel apart and turn it so that you can match the timing mark to the arrow on the dist. pulley then follow the timing procedure on Pg.93. The 9v should be measured at the coil with switch on.