Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

[fyrfytr33]

So here is the problem, You just adjusted your throttle an shift cables and as you close the hold down clamp, SNAP, it breaks. Thirty years old and brittle where do you find a new one or fix the one you have.
This is my saga and fix. First off a quick fix so I can continue with a link and sync procedure. Tried to drive the cold rolled pin out and broke the clamp where it connects to the motor. Well it's out of the way now, left the pin in to hold the cable tie from slipping up and off the clamp holder. Found a junk engine at the boat shop, clamp also broken. Quick fix, used a plastic wedge (cut to fit the width of the lower slot) and a cable tie. See attached pics. Note this should only be a temporary fix. If the cable tie broke while approaching any danger you could lose throttle control and/or the possibility of losing the ability to shift gears.





I came up with a more permanent fix see next post.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

So I came up with a more permanent fix.
I picked up a piece of square 3/4" aluminum tube (.125" side wall) about a foot long, 2 bucks at a local metal fabricator. Took a few measurements and laid out some cut lines. I don't want to give the exact numbers because I'm not sure they are all the same, but it was 3"-4".



Then started with a hack saw cutting the piece as you can see.





As you can see I have cut it shorter so it is easier to work with, about 1" longer than I needed 4"-5". I guessed at the angle, but it was around 30*.

See next post for more.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

I had to narrow the lower end to fit into the slot at the bottom, about 1/2"-5/8".



Next I bent the piece as you can see. This is necessary so the slides are long enough to reach the hole where the pin was originally. If you found a piece of tubing that was 3/4" by 1" you may get by without bending the new bracket. Again I think I bent mine to around 30*, I just made it fit.



By this time I had taken the cold rolled pin out so I could use the hole for a cotter pin. With the cables in place I test fit the piece and marked where I would drill the hole for a cotter pin. I also marked and cut the excess off the top and rounded the corners so it would look better and not interfere with anything else in the motor. Note - I had to bend the sides out slightly so it would fit over the mounting bracket.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

So after smoothing all edges I test fit the bracket.



I guess I could of quit here but I want as good or better than original. So I painted the bracket and glued a thin piece of rubber to the side that contacts the cable barrels. Picked up an old inner tube for the rubber and used contact cement to attach it.



So here is the finished piece.







I hope this is helpful to anyone with a similar problem. As I said I wanted as good or better than new. Looks good, comes off easy, and is made to last. The paint should also ward off corrosion. Thank you for providing this forum.

 

[emilime75]

Re: Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

Nice job. Do you by chance have any links to good tutorials on adjusting throttle and shift cables on Mercury's? I have a 77 1150 and need to do this. I have never done it before.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

I may not be the one to ask. I have been fighting mine all spring, not the cables but the link and sync process. Still not right. I'll look around this site and send a link if you don't mind.
My Seloc manual states to remove the cables and adjust the barrel until the cable end just slips over the pin of the shift linkage, install retaining clip and tighten nut. When the control is in neutral and the shift lever in the motor is in neutral there should be a "very slight" preload towards reverse position on the shift cable (bottom cable, should move first when throttle is moved.) Move the shifter to forward the prop should not rotate counter clockwise. Back to neutral and the prop should rotate freely either direction. Move the shifter to reverse and the prop should not turn more than 120* either direction. Back to neutral and the prop should turn freely. Readjust if needed.
Throttle cable, (make sure the start lever is all the way back in the down position) move throttle until the distributor just makes light contact with the idle stop screw. Adjust the barrel until it just slips over the screw, slip the cable end over the screw on the throttle arm and install washer and nut. Reclamp the cable. Move the shifter to forward until the idle stop moves away from the stop, place a piece of paper in between the stop and screw and return the throttle to neutral the paper should be tight if not readjust until you get it right. If the paper slips out without friction it is too loose. Move to full throttle and check to make sure the throttle plates in the carbs are fully open but not jammed against the stops.

Hope this helps.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

My Dad taught me:

Necesity is the mother of invention.






And of course, poverty is the father.

Great thread
John

 

[Moody Blue]

Re: Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

Very nice job.

 

[fyrfytr33]

Re: Broken cable clamp, easy fix. (older Mercury's)

Thank you. I hope others can use this rather than giving in and doing a quick unsafe fix or worse buying a new motor.

fyrfytr33