Rotorfixer
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 193
I was like many of you (I can tell by all of the questions floating around on these forums), wanting to install a smartcraft system in my boat, but found there is little accurate info out there....
If you have any questions, please post it on this forum, not by PM
I took the leap, taught myself a lot and would like to share with you guys how to do it. I can help you with part numbers, harnesses, connectors etc. Here is the rough overview of my install in my 2008 PolarKraft Kodiak 178 FS with a 150hp optimax.
First was the completely unknown connector in the engine, this was easly found once I knew that there had to be a terminator resistor on it, so you look for a connector that ends (near the front righthand side) that has a yellow cap that reads "terminator" keep it, you will need it. Here is an image of the area with the two smart craft harnesses connected (blue network cable, and Fuel, oil, and paddle wheel harness)
(pointing to main harness)
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16417&stc=1&d=1218393232
(pointing to fuel, oil, paddle wheel harness)
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16418&stc=1&d=1218393260
I could not find any info on the fuel oil and paddlewheel harness and thought it was going to connect to the junction box, but it came with a different connector, so I found one in the engine same size, and with the same wire colors. If you do not buy or connect this harness, you will not have paddle wheel input (troll control, or slow speed speedo) or remote oil (or water or waste) tank level, or more importantly fuel level. one lead of this harness is fuel 1, it needs to tie in to the fuel tank sending unit, and you need to be sure the unit is also grounded, or it won't work. you may also have to upgrade to a digital sender (@ 50$) like wema (others are listed on the merc website) mine had one and works fine.
I see guys on the net have cut the harness on the cables to get them through tight spots, and then splice them back together, I would strongly advise you DO NOT DO THIS. this is a very voltage and resistance sensitive system, so I spent a few hours trying to google the disassembly of these connectors, found nothing, spent a few more and figured it out for myself.
I will create a new post "how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector" to deal with this as lots of pictures will help
remove the cable ends if necessary and run the cables, avoiding anywhere that might chafe and wear through the cable. There are several ways to make the system, one system monitor, tach only, tach and speedo, I can help you find the right p/n's for what you are trying to accomplish. This is a list of parts I used to build my system, took lots of reasearch as my dealer, like most, wasn't very knowledgable.
I thought I wanted a junction box at the back of the boat because I thought the fuel oil paddle wheel harness connected to it, now that I know it doesn't, I am not sure what use it might be, but is there for when I figure that out, suppose I could put a system monitor back there for when I am working on the engine...
one thing to know is that there needs to be two resistors in the system (at each end of the "CAN BUS TRUNK")... if you have two junction boxes, you will need to have a resistor in each of them, if you have one junction box (up front for tach and speedo kit) you can buy a cable that has one resistor built in at the engine side (p/n 879981TX, X= the length ie. 879981T20 would be a 20ft cable) and then one termination resistor in the box up front. If you are only doing a system monitor, you can have no junction boxes and buy a cable that has a resistor built in to each end (p/n 879982TX, X= length). You will also need to plug all open connectors (on junction boxes) with weather caps, the amount that come in the kits should suffice.
79-879899K07 Grey face, black bezel tach and speedo kit, comes with tach and speedo harness, air temp sensor, one junction box, and I think one or two weather caps
879968T6 6' harness, I used it to go from the engine to rear junction box
879968T15 15' harness to go from rear junction box to front junction box
859318T1 Termination resistors
878492K16 6 way junction box with 3 weather caps
859743T03 Oil, fuel and paddle wheel harness
859223B1 Paddle wheel sensor
here is a pick of the rear junction box area (note the yellow "cap" you see is a terminator resistor, just under that is a purple weather cap)
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16414&stc=1&d=1218392977
here is the front one (under the dash), went with a 6 way box incase I wanted to add more later. ( you can see the one yellow terminator resistor, two purple weather caps, the top two left hand are the tack and speedo connectors, and the lower right is the harness to the back junction box. you can also see the "system link" cable dangling to the left (two pin connector) for use to connect future link gauges.
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16415&stc=1&d=1218393064
and here are the gauges!
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16416&stc=1&d=1218393126
If you have any questions, please post it on this forum, not by PM
I took the leap, taught myself a lot and would like to share with you guys how to do it. I can help you with part numbers, harnesses, connectors etc. Here is the rough overview of my install in my 2008 PolarKraft Kodiak 178 FS with a 150hp optimax.
First was the completely unknown connector in the engine, this was easly found once I knew that there had to be a terminator resistor on it, so you look for a connector that ends (near the front righthand side) that has a yellow cap that reads "terminator" keep it, you will need it. Here is an image of the area with the two smart craft harnesses connected (blue network cable, and Fuel, oil, and paddle wheel harness)
(pointing to main harness)
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16417&stc=1&d=1218393232
(pointing to fuel, oil, paddle wheel harness)
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16418&stc=1&d=1218393260
I could not find any info on the fuel oil and paddlewheel harness and thought it was going to connect to the junction box, but it came with a different connector, so I found one in the engine same size, and with the same wire colors. If you do not buy or connect this harness, you will not have paddle wheel input (troll control, or slow speed speedo) or remote oil (or water or waste) tank level, or more importantly fuel level. one lead of this harness is fuel 1, it needs to tie in to the fuel tank sending unit, and you need to be sure the unit is also grounded, or it won't work. you may also have to upgrade to a digital sender (@ 50$) like wema (others are listed on the merc website) mine had one and works fine.
I see guys on the net have cut the harness on the cables to get them through tight spots, and then splice them back together, I would strongly advise you DO NOT DO THIS. this is a very voltage and resistance sensitive system, so I spent a few hours trying to google the disassembly of these connectors, found nothing, spent a few more and figured it out for myself.
I will create a new post "how to disassemble a smartcraft cable connector" to deal with this as lots of pictures will help
remove the cable ends if necessary and run the cables, avoiding anywhere that might chafe and wear through the cable. There are several ways to make the system, one system monitor, tach only, tach and speedo, I can help you find the right p/n's for what you are trying to accomplish. This is a list of parts I used to build my system, took lots of reasearch as my dealer, like most, wasn't very knowledgable.
I thought I wanted a junction box at the back of the boat because I thought the fuel oil paddle wheel harness connected to it, now that I know it doesn't, I am not sure what use it might be, but is there for when I figure that out, suppose I could put a system monitor back there for when I am working on the engine...
one thing to know is that there needs to be two resistors in the system (at each end of the "CAN BUS TRUNK")... if you have two junction boxes, you will need to have a resistor in each of them, if you have one junction box (up front for tach and speedo kit) you can buy a cable that has one resistor built in at the engine side (p/n 879981TX, X= the length ie. 879981T20 would be a 20ft cable) and then one termination resistor in the box up front. If you are only doing a system monitor, you can have no junction boxes and buy a cable that has a resistor built in to each end (p/n 879982TX, X= length). You will also need to plug all open connectors (on junction boxes) with weather caps, the amount that come in the kits should suffice.
79-879899K07 Grey face, black bezel tach and speedo kit, comes with tach and speedo harness, air temp sensor, one junction box, and I think one or two weather caps
879968T6 6' harness, I used it to go from the engine to rear junction box
879968T15 15' harness to go from rear junction box to front junction box
859318T1 Termination resistors
878492K16 6 way junction box with 3 weather caps
859743T03 Oil, fuel and paddle wheel harness
859223B1 Paddle wheel sensor
here is a pick of the rear junction box area (note the yellow "cap" you see is a terminator resistor, just under that is a purple weather cap)
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16414&stc=1&d=1218392977
here is the front one (under the dash), went with a 6 way box incase I wanted to add more later. ( you can see the one yellow terminator resistor, two purple weather caps, the top two left hand are the tack and speedo connectors, and the lower right is the harness to the back junction box. you can also see the "system link" cable dangling to the left (two pin connector) for use to connect future link gauges.
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16415&stc=1&d=1218393064
and here are the gauges!
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16416&stc=1&d=1218393126
Attachments
Last edited: