1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Porto

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Hello, I put my Mark 55 on hold for now so I can get my other "new" Merc going, a 1962 700 70 hp (ser# 1506933). It sparks and turns over fine but I needed to know the gas to oil ratio before I fired it up. Also, I see there is an exhaust slot in the motor leg, will water stream out there when the motor is running? Or is there any way of knowing that the cooling system is working properly on this motor? I plan on replacing the impeller but I'm waiting for the manual before I tackle this project. Thank you....
 

gwmark78

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Aug 31, 2004
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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Laddies, I thought with the newer mix oils that 50 to 1 was ok in the older mercs given the fact that the internals were designed much as the current motors of today. I know there has been alot of discussion on this here and in other forums.
 

Clams Canino

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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

That's assuming you're using 1962 (straight 30wt auto) oil in it. :D <br /><br />If you are using a modern TCW-3 outboard oil the std 50-1 ratio is fine. I ran my '62 800 on Pennzoil Synthetic Blend (9.99 Gal, Wal-Mart) for 3 seasons.<br /><br />1 quart for 10 gallons is 40-1, it can handle that fine.<br /><br />-W
 

Laddies

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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Here goes the oil thing again, Mercury Marine always said that it had nothing to do with oil but that it was engine construstion, if you had a black engine (64 and after) it was 50 to 1 and before that all engines were 24 to 1 so I guess they were wrong, I certainly don't want to argue about it I think Mercury is much more qualified ot make recommendation on oil than I am---Bob
 

Porto

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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

I had this same discussion on the other message board about my 1961 Johnson. I ended up running it @ 24:1 just to be safe. Although it does boost the cost of boating......<br /><br />What do you guys think about my other question, should I see water coming out somewhere to let me know I'm cooling okay, the manual and impeller can't get here fast enough.....
 

Laddies

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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Its been a while since I work on a 700 but the way I remember them there is no telltall other than water at the exhaust bypass. I guess you should also know that the engine could run leaner than 25 to 1 on oil, I simply would not recommend it to someone else. We tinker with oil ratios and additives on engines all the time but if we cook it it's our problem --Bob
 

Porto

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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Thanks guys, I'll run 24:1 for now. As far as cooling goes, I'll keep a close watch on the temp until I get my parts.
 

emckelvy

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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Over 20 years ago I ran the living tar out of all manner of early 60's Merc outboards including MK58, M1000, M700. In particular a M700E Dockbuster I had on a 13-1/2" Sea King runabout. We slalom ski'd like mad and ran it real hard. <br /><br />All those motors saw TCW-(XX) (whatever it was back then, I don't recall) oil, mixed 50:1 and never any oil-related failures.<br /><br />I would have no qualms about running any mid-to-late 50's-or-newer Merc inline 4 or 6 on a quality TCW-rated oil mixed 50:1.<br /><br />All of these motors are 'fully jeweled' and the quality of the rings, bearings, rods, pistons, and crankshafts on those 50's motors is no less than those of later models. In fact many of the same bearings were used in those later models.<br /><br />For that matter, I ran my old MK 20 stock powerhead with Quickie lower on a 9.5 flat-bottom knee-knocker and it liked 50:1 just fine, too! Even stock it was faster than my brother's 17' Apollo runabout with another old M1000 that I had rebuilt for him.<br /><br />If it makes you feel better, mix it a tad heavy at 40:1, but IMHO 24:1 on these motors is just overkill. Note that this argument doesn't apply to any of the older JohnRudes etc that have babbitt bearings on the rods and/or crank main bearings, you MUST mix a heavy oil ratio or it'll wipe the bearings.<br /><br />Regarding cooling on your 700, if it's getting adequate water at idle the outer exhaust manifold cover will be cool to the touch or just slightly warm. It'll get a tad warmer than that underway but should never get hot. You should have quite a spray coming from the exhaust relief when underway also.<br /><br />HTH.............ed
 

zebraman1978

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Apr 8, 2010
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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

i have a 61 merc 700 gear shift and know nothing about it except the guy had it down in a barrel of H2O and started it without any trouble when i bought it(with the boat). i filled up the tank about 2 weeks later and couldn't get it started at the doc. fairly disappointed, fortunately it was a slow reservoir, no one to laugh :).

he said it could probably use some fresh fuel at the time, so i am wondering if i could have stirred up any water or other contaminants in the tank when i filled it and that's my problem?? anyway, im going to try some known good fuel tonight to see what happens. if you have a suggestion otherwise, im all ears.

i was originally going to ask about the exhaust and where it is at so i can look for the water spray? the guy i got it from also said it had a new water pump and timing belt. not sure if that is true but it was a steal even if the boat had no motor so im not too worried about it. it'll make a great resto project i hope to post come winter.

one last thing...is there supposed to be some kind of filter behind the cover on the front?

thanks for any guidance and patience helping a new boater(and new forum member).
 

Wingedwheel

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1,071
Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

You can put your hand in front of the exhaust port and see if it spits water out on your hand. If there's no through-prop exhaust the water usually does come out with the exhaust at the port
 

zebraman1978

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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

thanks for the info. still curious about the filter? seems to me there should be something cleaning the air going in.
 

emckelvy

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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Outboards do not require an air filter since they operate in an environment with little or no dust (the water tends to dampen any dust that's hanging around in the lake or bay!).

Water will discharge from the exhaust relief ports at the upper backside, under the cowling. The water telltale comes from a passage at the bottom of the block, thru the lower cowling on the Port rear side, up underneath. Most times it's plugged up and you won't get anything out.

A 700 FGS has thru-the-prop exhaust and so if you're running it on a flusher, you'll get warm-ish water running out the center of the prop, along with exhaust. On a flusher you'll have no backpressure so not a lot of water will exit the exhaust reliefs. In the water, at idle or slow speeds there's enough backpressure to force exhaust/water out the reliefs. You should get a good flow of water from the reliefs underway, as well.

If you have any doubt about water flow thru the motor, just feel the exhaust manifold cover. It should never ever be hot. Usually even after a hard run it'll just be lukewarm if that. At idle it'll probably be stone cold.

Exhaust beats right on this area, so if there's no water flowing it'll get hot very fast. If it's been running for many minutes and is still cool, you can rest assured that you've got plenty of water flowing thru the motor.

On your fuel issue, if you're still having troubles you might need to check the wire mesh filter screens, one at the top of each carb. The filter cover is held on with one bolt in the top center and you'll need to pull all three as they'll come up in one big Lump. The screens are underneath and you can blow them out with air or carb cleaner spray.

If you think you might have gotten a load of bad gas or water-contaminated, you can flush the carbs with fresh fuel by removing the main jet plug on each carb, then pumping fresh fuel thru the carbs and out the front. You'll see a brass hex-headed plug (7/16" wrench) at the bottom front of each carb. There's a thin red gasket behind each plug so be sure to keep track of them. Snug down the plugs after you flush gas thru the carbs. You can use some shop rags or paper towels to capture the effluent coming out of the carbs as you flush.

The starting drill on these old Mercs is, they like lotsa fuel! Pump the primer bulb up hard and then a couple squeezes for good measure. Run the fast idle lever up a ways then depress and hold the choke button, crank over with choke until she fires up. Release the choke and if the motor wants to die, hold choke button down for a second or so then release. Repeat until the motor is warm enough to idle without choke. Very likely you'll need to tweak-in the idle speed and mixture once you get out in the water. If the idle mix is adjusted too lean it'll be hard to start.

BTW, you realize you resurrected a 5-yr-old thread!!!!?? Probably better to start a new one but there it is!

And to reiterate the old info, your motor will run great on a good TCW-3 oil mixed at 50:1. Wal-Mart has good deals on TCW-3 oil, usually they stock the Penzoil synthetic blend and that's good stuff for a decent price.

Here's some info on oils straight from Mercury:

Mercury Bulletin Number 80-6:

"A. USE OF FORMULA 50-D OIL IN OLDER MERCURY OUTBOARDS

Formula 50-D oil can be recommended (at a 50:1 mixture) for use in earlier Mercury outboards regardless of year of manufacture.

Formula 50-D also can be used in other brand outboards (at a 50:1 mixture), provided that the manufacturer recommends use of a 50:1 oil mixture."

The above was copied verbatim from a Merc Service Bulletins Microfiche.

Since this bulletin was issued over 20 years ago, I'd expect that Mercury's latest oil formulations (and any good TCW3 oil for that matter) would be far superior to the Formula 50-D oil.

This of course doesn't apply to racing motors which do require more oil in the fuel for proper lubrication under extreme operation.

HTH & enjoy your classic Merc............ed

p.s. here's some reading material you'll likely find useful:

http://www.maxrules.com/fixoldmercindex.html
 

zebraman1978

Cadet
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Holy Toledo! what a wealth of knowledge. i cant thank you enough. sorry about the ressurection. i saw quite a few posts where a moderator moved the thread so i was unsure about starting a new one.

i am wondering about the flusher option. i picked one up at walmart with the pennzoil you mentioned. i thought it would work but it says for motors with side water intake. i dont see where the water goes in but it doesnt look like its on the side. how would i use a flusher? and while we're at it, where should i open the new thread?

thanks emckelvy
 

emckelvy

Commander
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
2,506
Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

Hey, no sweat, that's what we come here for!

Well, it sounds like you've got the older version with water intakes in the trim tab. Later models used the side intakes which work with the flushing 'muffs'. Check the leading surface of the trim tab and I bet you see a series of holes. The trim tab is hollow and leads to a tube which connects to the supply side of the water pump.

Unless you can make some kind of attachment to fit over the intake holes in the trim tab, it would be kinda hard to flush. Tempo (aftermarket company) used to sell an adapter that clamped over the 'trim tab' intake of the old JohnRude Big Twins (30, 35, 40 HP, etc), and one similar in style to that would be what you need. I don't know if one was ever made specifically for the big Mercs.

I've attached a pic of the Tempo flusher for Big Twins for info. Also some different style Merc flushing attachments.

You may have noticed a larger flatheaded screw on the Port side of the lower unit up top, this is for a screw-in type of flusher. But you can't run the motor on that one or it'll burn up the impeller. It's only meant to flush water thru the motor when not running. So that wouldn't be much help to you if you want to hear 'er run before heading out for a day of boating.

Maybe best to get a plastic water barrel and slip it under the motor, fill it up so the water level is at least halfway up the exhaust tower (aka center section) and run it that way. I do that when I'm doing a bit of tuning, if you have the right sized barrel you can idle in gear with the hose running and get a pretty good initial idle speed/mixture adjustment. Don't throttle up at all, though, or you're in for a quick shower!

Regarding creating a new post, at the left of the page-count bar which you'll see above all the threads on the page, you should also see a "Create New Post" button. Hit this and your "thread hijacking" days will be long gone!

If for some reason you're not seeing this button, check the "Posting Rules" listing at the bottom left of the page and make sure you see "You may post new threads". If you don't, check the "FAQ", if that's not helping, you could always send a message to the Forum Administrator by using the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right of the page.

Cheers..........ed
 

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redneckboater2

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Jul 16, 2012
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Re: 1962 Mercury 700 70hp question(s)

I am looking for parts for my 1962 mercury 700 outboard, wondering if anyone had any suggestions and pro/cons of this motor this my first experience with outboard motors,
 
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