Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

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Wallybobb

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Sep 5, 2004
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I have a 1994 175 HP that is running fine but just yesterday started the intermittent beep. My question is, when I take the blue lead going to the oil float and connect it to chassis, the beep stops, when disconnected it beeps. Additionally, the oil float works but connects the blue lead to chassis when the float is down. That seems backwards?? Engine appears to be getting plenty of oil.
 

ronmold

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Yes, ethe float connects when the oil is low. Did you burp the air out of the engine resevoir?
 

Wallybobb

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Yes, though accidently. I left the cap slightly loose after checking and got oil on everywhere. It continued to beep. I'm still confused as to why I could get the beeping to stop by taking the blue lead to chassis. That just seems backwards.
 

WillyBWright

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

That's because that's not how that switch works. There should be two blue wires. When the float is low, the magnetic switch connects those. That lets the circuitry in the warning module know to sound an alarm. It's not a grounding situation. Neither of the two blue wires connect to ground. Hopefully you haven't harmed the module.
 

ronmold

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Do you get the "turn the key on" beep from the oil module still? If not it will need replacement.
 

Wallybobb

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Yes I do. I am going to assure myself I don't have the situation reversed. I'm almost positive I could get the beep to stop by taking the lead going to the float and connecting it to chassis but I want to be sure. I will also confirm the beep when I turn key on.<br /><br />Thanks for your answers.<br /><br />Bill B.
 

Wallybobb

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

WillyBWright, Actually my float has a blue and a black wire with the black connected to chassis. This is why I tested it on the water by connecting the blue to chassis manually. That is what has me so confused. When blue was connected manually to chassis, the alarm stopped. When removed, it started again. This is opposite from the way the float works.
 

wilde1j

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Has it occured to you that there may be a REAL problem with the oiling system, rather than an alarm malfunction? Are you aware that the oil alarm system doesn't only look at tank level, but also pump shaft rotation? You need a shop manual to properly diagnose and I would recommend adding oil to the gas tank until you're absolutely sure you know what's going on. The crankshaft oil pump drive gear is failure prone on these motors.
 

Wallybobb

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Yes WildeOne I am worried about that. Would the alarm stop when blue from the alarm module was connected to chassis if this the pump shaft was not rotating? That is where I am getting hung up. I do agree that I should premix till I figure it out.
 

gashead1974

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Bill, I have had the same problem which was fixed yesterday. Try the following, if you un bolt the oil pump you will see a slotted section, rest your finger gently on the head and get some one to start it up (just for a couple of seconds) you should feel the head spinning. If it spins then that is a plus. If it doesent then you have a big job on your hands (thats the time to pr-mix). If you take the cap of and hold the flaot up then start it does it stop the bleeping? If so than its a faulty cap, you can buy just the cap if required. Finally if its neither of them, then it may be the module, thats the black box further back from the oil pump. The only reason I know that is because I am just had to spend a few 100quid replacing mine!!
 

wilde1j

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

The Merc OEM shop manual gives detailed troubleshooting info for finding the source of oil alarms. A very simple, quick check of the oiling system may be done by removing the oil pump discharge line, putting a suitable container to catch the oil and starting the engine. At ~ 1500 RPM, you should collect about 20 cc's of oil in 3 minutes running time if the pump and drive system is OK.<br /><br />I would suggest getting the manual.
 

Wallybobb

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Thanks guys. I'll gt a manual. Does anyone know where to look for the alarm module and other parts?
 

jbasser

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Sep 27, 2004
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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Bill,<br /><br />I just went through what you are going through. In my case the beeping was caused by a disconnected ground wire on the back of the motor. However, I went through a lot of diagnosis of the sensors, and pump before I found it. The wire was still in the connector sleeve so I didn't notice it at first. To answer your questions about the cap sensor, you can use a multi testor to check it out. Diconnect the blue wire and black wire, switch the tester to the conntinuity check position (your testor manual will show you how) and connect the negative lead to the black wire and the postive lead to the blue wire. The testor needle should go all the way over to the right with the float down and fall back to the left when the float is up. If it does that then the cap sensor is okay. If not you need a new cap assembly. The float should always be up in the engine reservoir to indicate to the warning system that there is full oil in the reservoir. Make sure the float is good, as well, and not saturated with oil which would keep it in the down position even with oil in the reservoir. You could also check the motion sensor which should be located just behind the oil pump. Your owners manual should have a section that decribes how to trouble shoot problems with a low oil warning. It also tells you how to bleed the oil injection system if you need too. You can go to the web site http://www.mercruiserparts.com to find parts, and diagrams of all engine components. They have online copies of the microfiche that service shops use to locate and identify parts for a wide range of outboards.<br />Hope this helps.
 

Wallybobb

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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Originally posted by JBear:<br /> Bill,<br /><br />I just went through what you are going through. In my case the beeping was caused by a disconnected ground wire on the back of the motor. However, I went through a lot of diagnosis of the sensors, and pump before I found it. The wire was still in the connector sleeve so I didn't notice it at first. To answer your questions about the cap sensor, you can use a multi testor to check it out. Diconnect the blue wire and black wire, switch the tester to the conntinuity check position (your testor manual will show you how) and connect the negative lead to the black wire and the postive lead to the blue wire. The testor needle should go all the way over to the right with the float down and fall back to the left when the float is up. If it does that then the cap sensor is okay. If not you need a new cap assembly. The float should always be up in the engine reservoir to indicate to the warning system that there is full oil in the reservoir. Make sure the float is good, as well, and not saturated with oil which would keep it in the down position even with oil in the reservoir. You could also check the motion sensor which should be located just behind the oil pump. Your owners manual should have a section that decribes how to trouble shoot problems with a low oil warning. It also tells you how to bleed the oil injection system if you need too. You can go to the web site http://www.mercruiserparts.com to find parts, and diagrams of all engine components. They have online copies of the microfiche that service shops use to locate and identify parts for a wide range of outboards.<br />Hope this helps.
 

warbird

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Jan 11, 2009
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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

Yes I do. I am going to assure myself I don't have the situation reversed. I'm almost positive I could get the beep to stop by taking the lead going to the float and connecting it to chassis but I want to be sure. I will also confirm the beep when I turn key on.<br /><br />Thanks for your answers.<br /><br />Bill B.

check main oil tank in boat not on engine , make sure cap is on tight, ive had that happen with my 175 mariner when adding oil, ill get a low oil alarm, if not on tight
 

jhoelting

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Apr 22, 2009
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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

This is happening to me right now and I want to tell all of you how helpful you have been. Thank you all for taking your time. I still haven't gotten mine figured out yet, though.

I had the shaft out of the motor that spins the oil pump and was looking for plastic shavings and didn't see any. 2nd, I took the oil line off below the pump and oil comes out but not at a very fast rate(surprised at first, but logic took over). As well it probobly shouldn't, because the motor was at idle and doesn't burn much fuel/oil. Is there a way to test the fuel after it has been mixed to see if it is 50:1?

My boat is still blowing out blue smoke is that any indicator that the oil system is functioning? And functioning properly?
 

Maizecraze

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Apr 27, 2009
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Re: Oil Warning System 175 HP Mercury Outboard

I have a 2001 200 EFI mercury and I am having the exact same problem. It is very frustrating. Im getting 4 beep alarm every two minutes with the ignition on and the motor not running. Every thing was great end of last year, took it out of storage, and out on my first Tournament after about 7 hrs of fishing was heading back to the ramp when the alram started going off....
 

TheMan_90241

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Mar 15, 2008
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Resurrecting an old thread again. Just went through all the steps described above and have decided to disable the oil injection system and run premix. I have read everything about installing a block-off kit. I was thinking about leaving everything intact more or less. Does anyone see a problem with this alternative solution?:

1- Remove the oil pump. Remove driven shaft and magnet piece. Reattach the oil pump (thus physically disconnecting the pump from any moving parts)
2. Remove any two stroke oil from the system by draining the oil tank and any oil lines on the motor and emptying the larger oil tanks in the boat.
3. Disable the low oil alarm module by disconnecting the ground wire near the module.

If I understand the system correctly, this should render the oil injection system useless but will keep the system whole for any future owner of the boat. With the exception of the driven shaft and magnet of course.

What do you think? Thank you for your time and all opinions are welcome.

Terry
 

Diplomasta

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Joined
Feb 27, 2021
Messages
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Resurrecting an old thread again. Just went through all the steps described above and have decided to disable the oil injection system and run premix. I have read everything about installing a block-off kit. I was thinking about leaving everything intact more or less. Does anyone see a problem with this alternative solution?:

1- Remove the oil pump. Remove driven shaft and magnet piece. Reattach the oil pump (thus physically disconnecting the pump from any moving parts)
2. Remove any two stroke oil from the system by draining the oil tank and any oil lines on the motor and emptying the larger oil tanks in the boat.
3. Disable the low oil alarm module by disconnecting the ground wire near the module.

If I understand the system correctly, this should render the oil injection system useless but will keep the system whole for any future owner of the boat. With the exception of the driven shaft and magnet of course.

What do you think? Thank you for your time and all opinions are welcome.

Terry
I'm trying to suss out this oil system too. In my case it's a sport jet, which means the motion sensor is tied into the Cold start/tks system. The oil system was already removed when I bought it. I need to know how the TKS computer utilizes this pulse information. Does it count RPMs or does it simply look for motion/1 or 0? Has anyone ever heard of a signal generator that can be installed to replicate this signal? I can't remove TKS computer because sport jet powerhead is always under load and primes fuel until 106Ā°. As is, I have to disconnect primer solenoid before going full throttle or else engine will stall (flooding I think). It works perfectly to cold start the engine but seems to freak out above 3k or so. Also, after disconnecting it, it hits 5k then settles to 4200 sustained at full throttle.
šŸ˜« Frickin mercury.
 
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