1988 Mercury 25 - No Spark

kmeyer54

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So I think I should first admit that I know nothing about outboards... This is my first boat, and no one in my family really has any experience with boat motors. I have a 1988 Mercury 25 (S/N 0B323044) attached to a 1988 Lowe 16' Tunnel Jon. The boat and motor both belonged to my great-grandfather, and my grandparents inherited them when he passed (around 2001). We aren't really sure how long it's been since the boat was used, other than that it had been several years before the old man passed. The propeller is damaged and the hull, although very structurally sound, needs some cosmetic work.

So far, I've replaced the starter solenoid, which fixed an issue with the starter either not turning or not turning fast enough. I also replaced both ignition coils, both wires, and both spark plugs. I purchased a new gas tank, mixed the gas with the proper ratio of outboard oil, and purchased a new fuel line and fittings. At this point, the motor is turning over freely, but not starting. From what my grandfather and I can tell, there is no spark going to the spark plugs. I know the old man had replaced the switch box with an aftermarket part many years ago, and we think the aftermarket unit was working at the time it was parked, but now we suspect the switch box may be the culprit for the lack of spark. I also purchased a new marine starting battery, and that seems to be functioning just fine.

I'm hoping to get some advice from the more experienced members here as to what parts I should be looking to repair or replace in order to address this issue so that I don't find myself blindly replacing parts and spending much more than necessary. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
kmeyer54
 
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kmeyer54

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flyingscott There is a red switch on the motor that is unlabeled as well as one on the electronic control set. I've tried every combination of up/down for both without success thus far. I'm also not sure which position is on/off for either, which is why I've tried every combination.
 

flyingscott

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Is this a tiller or remote model? Take a pic of the front of the motor and the controller.
 

kmeyer54

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I'm going to try again to post pictures. I've been attempting off and on for a couple weeks as time permitted with no luck.

This is the control box:
mPAc2E8.jpg


This is the best picture I currently have of the controls on the motor:
R4E4Zmb.jpg
 

flyingscott

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Disconnect the kill switch from the cdi box. You will also need to test the ignition switch. After that www.cdielectronics.com has the troubleshooting guide for your ignition. Have you pulled the flywheel to look underneath? What is the compression?
 

kmeyer54

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I have not pulled the flywheel yet - from looking at it, I got the impression that would require some kind of special tool. I did inspect as much as I could without removing it and everything did at least look fairly clean and intact to my untrained eye.

I was finally able to check the compression. Both cylinders are at almost exactly 100 psi on my cheap AutoZone guage. From what I can find online that seems to be a fairly reasonable compression for an older motor.

Next on the agenda is to check the ignition. I may he doing that this afternoon if nothing else comes up.
 

kmeyer54

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Update - several years in the future. After a long hiatus due to a bunch of life changes, I was finally able to build an outboard stand and get the motor off the boat and into my garage. I'm still fighting the no spark issue as well as a flywheel which does not wish to be removed. Puller is on as tight as it will go and PB Blaster/hammer to the center of the puller hasn't done anything so far. Next option appears to be a combination of heat and a bigger hammer for that. Rechecking the compression shows 120 psi in the upper cylinder and 125 psi in the lower cylinder after rechecking, so better than I thought. Guess I checked it wrong in the past somehow. At this point I'm planning to just replace the stator and the trigger. Both are showing low resistance (and none in some cases) based on the chart I found at https://www.outboardignition.com/page39.asp

I'm hoping the CDI unit is still good. If replacing the trigger and stator doesn't fix it I will have to replace it next, I suppose. The kill switch doesn't appear to be the issue as far as I can tell.
 

kmeyer54

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Turns out the flywheel puller just needed a few firm taps with a bigger hammer (4 lbs blacksmith hammer) to pop the flywheel off. No heat needed! Guess I'll need to find another project to use my new heat gun on...

Physically everything looks intact but a little dirty under the flywheel. Still trying to make sure I'm testing the stator and trigger properly before I go out and buy parts, but in all reality I'll probably just replace them both anyway - just to be sure.

The bottom drain plug for the gear oil has been removed a bit aggressively in the past which is making it a bit tricky to remove even with a pretty large flathead, so I'm still working on getting that drained to see if there are signs of water getting in.
 

kmeyer54

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Photo of what I found under the flywheel in case any of you that know way more than me notice something wrong/missing:
image.jpg
 

kmeyer54

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Actual multimeter readings:

Stator Low Side (Blk/Yel to Engine Ground): 1 Ohm
Stator High Side (Blk/Whi to Engine Ground): 136 Ohms
Trigger (Brn/Yel to Brn/Whi): 755 Ohms

Both sides of the stator seem to be completely out of spec. I also noticed upon closer inspection that the stator wire was either melted or cut down to the copper pretty close to the flywheel. The cable management might not have been done right since I believe my great grandfather had replaced the CDI box at some point. Since the trigger looks to be within spec I'm going to leave it alone for now and replace the stator first.
 

kmeyer54

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New stator is in, still no spark. I finally figured out where exactly to disconnect the kill switch - I previously had it confused as being part of the trigger wiring. Disconnecting that also did not help. The ignition coils were replaced when I started on this a few years ago and have never actually been used, plugs and wires are also new, so I think the next step is to replace the switch box unless anyone has any other suggestions
 
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