1985 Mercury 75 - Fine on land, dying at idle in water

EchoNovember

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As the title says, I have a 1985 Mercury 75. When I bought it was hard starting in the water, and would die at idle, even after running for a long time. It would do this in the water and on muffs. The carb bowls were leaking at the gaskets, so I ordered a gasket kit and in the mean time sprayed Seafoam into the carb throats and fired up the engine. I gave occasional sprays to make sure there was plenty in there, then shut it off and let it sit. Took the spark plugs out and sprayed what was probably a more than generous amount of Seafoam directly into the cylinders, put new plugs in (stripping out one and having to put in a helicoil to repair it) and let it sit. I fired it up after a day or two, and after the smokescreen faded the engine ran like it was new, on muffs.

Gasket kit arrived, so I took off the carbs, didn't touch any adjustment screws, sprayed out the carbs with carb/choke cleaner (forgot to spray out the chokes), put the new gaskets on without any sealant, just bare gaskets, and put it all back together. Pumped the bulb for what seemed like forever to refill the carb bowls, and tried to start it. It didn't want to run... It was late at night, so I gave up for the day. The next day sprayed a small amount of Seafoam down the throats, and went to start it. It fired up in a second. No kidding, one second. Fired up straight away, no fuss, ran like the day it left the factory floor. Full of pride, I couldn't wait to get it on the water.

Took it out to a lake a couple days ago all excited to have a smooth running engine, anxious to show off mah skillz. The water hates pride. My engine did not want to start. When it did, it died quickly at idle. I had to put it in neutral and turn up the throttle to get it started and keep it running. When I dropped it back down a little, not even down to idle. it died. It kept dying. It died the moment I rammed it into reverse trying to get away from the launch. It died when I did anything, until I had the throttle up in neutral and quickly brought it back to idle, then shoved it forward to get moving, then it ran fine. I could cruise all day, it had no issue once I was moving. As soon as I dropped it back to idle, it died.

I'm no expert on outboards, which is why I am on here asking for help, but (of course there was going to be a "but") it seems like the water pressure is preventing the exhaust from escaping properly, causing the engine to strain and quit at idle. Yet exhaust is coming out of the exhaust pressure relief ports, so that kind of pokes a hole in that one.

The only things I can think of at this point are:

Idle adjustment screw needs to be tweaked
The dirt cheap 2-stroke oil the PO gave me isn't burning properly, causing power issues
Something is clogged with the exhaust and exhaust pressure is too high, killing the engine

I have a family camping and fishing trip coming up in ten days, so I am under a time crunch to get this fixed. Any help is greatly appreciated.


16' 1985 Starcraft SS 160
91 Octane Ethanol-free (yes, actually ethanol free) non-oxy premium gas
Cheap Walmart 2 stroke oil, TC-W3, 50:1
Seafoam in gas, dosed per can instructions to avoid thinning the oil
New Champion spark plugs
Dielectric grease on the spark plug boots
Anti-seize on the spark plug threads
Spark plugs torqued to 20lbs per service manual
Fuel pump filter screen removed and cleaned, then put back in
No fuel leaks anywhere
Spark on all cylinders
Compression not checked
Carbs clean and looking new, no corrosion, trace varnish in bowls
Remote controls, cables, have not adjusted
Newer battery, fully charged
Old steel gas cans, but no sign of rust or corrosion that I've seen
Newer Attwood fuel line and bulb.

I think that is about everything I can think of.
 

Chinewalker

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Spraying Sea Foam into the carb does nothing but clean the carb throat. If you want to clean the carbs properly, they MUST come off. Generous amounts of compressed air, carb cleaner and occasionally manual crud removal are necessary.
 

EchoNovember

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Spraying Sea Foam into the carb does nothing but clean the carb throat. If you want to clean the carbs properly, they MUST come off. Generous amounts of compressed air, carb cleaner and occasionally manual crud removal are necessary.

"Gasket kit arrived, so I took off the carbs, didn't touch any adjustment screws, sprayed out the carbs with carb/choke cleaner (forgot to spray out the chokes), put the new gaskets on without any sealant, just bare gaskets, and put it all back together."

I took the carbs off and apart, and cleaned them out. They were already pretty clean, like someone had cleaned them in the last 5 or so years. Minimal varnish, more like a minor discoloration of part of the bowl. I sprayed them off thoroughly with carb cleaner, letting some soak in the bowls. Specifying that I sprayed Seafoam down the throats was to indicate I essentially fogged the whole engine with it, not just the cylinders.
 

alldodge

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Not an OB guy but I think your carbs are flooding the motor. Probably the needle seat and valve is not sealing off.

Opinion: seafoam is snake oil and see no since in putting Naphtha and machine oil in a motor
 

EchoNovember

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Except it runs fine on land, no sign of a flooded motor, and the needle seats were clean, and the rubber still soft and pliable. When in the water with the pressure on the exhaust, it dies.

Seafoam is awesome. I used it in my motorcycle and after two tanks it was running better and had better mileage.
 

racerone

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It barks and roars on land , but it is not running fine at all.-You can not tell if it is running on 3 of 4 cylinders.-----Check compression first !
 

EchoNovember

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Yeah, I will need to get the tool for that. Once I get up to speed, she runs smooth and fine. But it does almost sound like she's skipping.
 

roscoe

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Dirty carb, low compression, idle mixture not set right, or maybe the idle speed is just too low.

Compression first, or you are just wasting time.
 

EchoNovember

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Any recommendations on a cheap compression tester?

Also, any suggestions for removing the bottom cowl? Otherwise I don't think I can get it into cylinder 4 as the space is kind of small. I would need a right angle connector.
 

EchoNovember

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No Title

Wouldn't let me delete the pictures of the livewell for another post, so here is a picture of my boat and motor. Lol.
 

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alldodge

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You can barrow one at Autozone, oreilly or other. Buy one at HF
 

EchoNovember

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Okay, I have a compression tester on the way. In the mean time, let's assume compression is good. What else could be the cause?

Clogged exhaust? There are exhaust bypass ports for the exhaust to escape when there is too much back pressure from the water. However, exhaust is coming out at idle in the water, when it idles...

Not warming the engine up long enough before running? I had a motorcycle like this, I had to choke it until it warmed up enough. However, I thought my outboard had an automatic choke, and when I try to choke it again with the switch, it peters out and dies.

Craptacular two stroke oil? The PO gave me a bottle of Wal-Mart bottom shelf TC-W3 oil I used for two fresh tanks of fuel. Could cheap crappy oil cause this?

Low idle? I don't have a tachometer, but want to install one. How do I check idle is in the proper range?

Running lean? How do I check to make sure I'm not running too lean? Should I just rebuild the fuel pump? The kit is about $30, iirc, so it's not going to break the bank.

Again, this is all assuming compression is fine while I wait for the tester to arrive. I won't be doing anything but theorizing until it gets here.
 

MH Hawker

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you may have several problems, its often a process of sorting it out

thats known as back pressure and yes it may be the problem and why its necessary to adjust that in the lake or river you set the idle up till it runs then adjust the mixture, OB like it rich for easy starting, lean makes them a beast to start

walmart oil works just fine i have ran it for 20 plus years
 
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EchoNovember

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you may have several problems, its often a process of sorting it out

thats known as back pressure and yes it may be the problem and why its necessary to adjust that in the lake or river you set the idle up till it runs then adjust the mixture, OB like it rich for easy starting, lean makes them a beast to start

walmart oil works just fine i have ran it for 20 plus years

So if compression is good, then my tools and I need to take a trip to the lake and get wet.

By Wal-mart oil I mean this is literally the cheapest possible stuff he could find, which means it just barely meets the criteria to be TC-W3 or whatever else certifies it as usable.
 

MH Hawker

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TC-W3 is the standard all 2 smoke oils have to meet, i run my boat 1 or 2 times a week and use 5 to 8 gallons a year so 12.50 a gallon is easier on my wallet than 20 a gallon, and while its not a sure thing the walmart oil looks and smells the same as mercury oil at 30 at gallon, i would bet that who ever makes it, runs it by the 1000 s of gallons and packages it in many many different bottles
 

EchoNovember

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TC-W3 is the standard all 2 smoke oils have to meet, i run my boat 1 or 2 times a week and use 5 to 8 gallons a year so 12.50 a gallon is easier on my wallet than 20 a gallon, and while its not a sure thing the walmart oil looks and smells the same as mercury oil at 30 at gallon, i would bet that who ever makes it, runs it by the 1000 s of gallons and packages it in many many different bottles

I was looking at switching to Pennzoil Synthetic XLF two-stroke TC-W3 oil. Many, many good reviews and comments all over about it and the lower to non-existent smoke output.

Well, at least I can be comfortable that the oil likely did not cause the problem.
 

alldodge

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Not trying to turn this into an oil thread :facepalm: but Walmart doesn't make oil and all oil will have an API certification label. The label means it meets the minimum requirements for the given oil type. No APT label, don't buy. with label, it should be fine
 
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