61 Kiekhaefer 500- no spark

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Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 22, 2017
Messages
34
This motor was last registered in 2007. The following are item I have done to see if it worth buying parts and repairing or just trying to source a new to me power plant.

- Replace fuel lines from tank to motor.
-Check plugs and wires.
- bypass mercury switch as it was damaged.
- bypass 12v onboard battery wiring with jumper cables due to the aweful condition existing were in.

I've got twelve volts from ignition when disconnected from the coil housing. Once connected it drops to 8. When cranking it drops to 4 or 5. I grounded the #3 plug just to see if I had even a weak spark. No joy. I removed the coil housing and dizzy. Once open it smells similar to a burnt circuit board. Can I replace just that part that looks like it has been plasti-dipped or do I need to replace everything inside of it?

The rotor cap and button and all contact points looks dirty from use but none were burnt.

I intend on making my own wiring harness using a car amplifier wiring kit. They're much cheaper and I have plenty of low voltage experience. Will the copper clad aluminum wire suffice for this or must it be true copper braid?

Does anyone have a high resolution print of the ignition system? All I can find is low res and I'm not certain it's even the right diagram because I can't read anything on the prints.
 

merc850

Commander
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
2,026
I wouldn't use aluminum wire it corrodes easily in a marine environment and it should be multi-stranded for flexibility; if this is really a 1961 it uses a magneto and if you have connected 12v to the post on the side you have burned the coil and points and condenser. This is what the magneto looks like - the side post grounds the magneto to stop the motor.
kiekhaefer-magnetosmall.jpg
 

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Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 22, 2017
Messages
34
I only added voltage where it was already present. Serial # 1448504.
Yes that is exactly what I see. In your diagram what I believe is smells burned is the coil. None of the contacts look burned. They just look like they've seen normal wear and tear.
I'll build the new harness out of 4 gauge stranded copper. Ignition wires and cutouts will be in an outdoor rated jacket (for UV resistance) 16 gauge.
the coil and condenser on the following link is what id like to replace these items with. Will these work? And do you have a proper schematic of the entire electrical layout?

http://store.oldmercs.com/mobile/Category.aspx?id=1052
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Wiring diagram - http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/0_1965a/4.pdf

An easy way to test the magneto for spark is to take off the timing belt, touch the side stud on the mag and spin the timing pulley. You'll know if she's sparking. Rotate the flywheel until #1 is at TDC and make sure the timing marks are lined up or make some marks. Also at TDC, the arrow under the timing pulley cover points directly at the flywheel. Make sure the arrow is in the right spot after the timing belt is put back on.

I highly suggest you buy a manual if you plan on keeping the motor. Clymer's or Seloc has more than enough information to keep this old one running.
 
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