1973 mercury 115 compression test

richardlee

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
49
I want to run a compression test on my 1973 Mercury 115. I have read several posts. Most say ground plugs to block. Can you just unplug coil to distributor wire instead? Also, posts say throttle at WOT. This would need to be done at engine because of neutral switch? Thanks for any help. If compression checks well, will work on wiring and carb issues. Engine runs strong but hard to start. Often use brake cleaning fluid for initial start.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Leave the key off and put the throttle at WOT (not that it makes any difference) using the throttle only button or warm up lever, then use a jumper on the solenoid to crank the motor.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,148
Remove the prop, if you are going to jumper the solenoid when the motor is in gear. The prop probably wont "bite" your leg, but you never know.

Remove the rear 4 cowling support bolts to get to the #6 cylinder.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,961
To get the lower cowl out of the way requires unbolting the front support, getting it out of the way, and removal of the rear cowl support, and the cover below the cowl
 

richardlee

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
49
GA_boater, thanks for the info. If I understand you correctly, you do not need motor in WOT. Is this correct?
Chris 1956 and Jimmbo thanks for the advice about the lower cowl. Will run this test when the weather warms up.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
WOT is not needed to test compression. Even numbers is what you're looking for and even using neutral only or the warm up lever opens the carbs.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,558
Leave the key off and put the throttle at WOT (not that it makes any difference) using the throttle only button or warm up lever, then use a jumper on the solenoid to crank the motor.
NOTE: LEAVE THE KEY OFF.

This is the best idea I have ever seen. Outstanding, Mr. Moderator!

For Richard's benefit, somewhere back there Merc came up with the 40,000 volt (unloaded) fast rise, capacitor discharge ignition system. It's been awhile since I retired and I forgot the number, but 40kVolts can jump a lot of things that you don't want jumped (arc tracking, voltage breakdown of lower rated components) if you don't have the plugs connected and grounded. Keeping the ignition off prevents the development of the voltage and jumpering the solenoid gets power to the starter.

The solenoid excites by energizing the small terminals where one is grounded to the block usually (battery -) and the other receives 12v from the ignition key in the START position. The exciting current is small so you could get a couple of alligator clips and a piece of 20 AWG or better insulated wire and make a jumper to get 12v from your input ⅜" stud (convenient place to grab it) on the solenoid over to the small terminal of the solenoid that's not grounded.

Obviously plugs are removed to allow spinning up the fastest. Fresh charge on your battery. All the manuals recommend opening the carbs (WOT) to let some air in to compress, fast idle as stated is an easy place to grab that. That way you can be in N so you don't have to worry about the prop turning. The manuals also recommend EVEN numbers, like within 10# some say, 15# others, as a must (as GA also suggested) with my last manual saying "if less than 120, expect problems". If you are flunking the test want to know if you have worn rings, squirt some 30 wt oil in the cylinders (all around) and run the test again. If your numbers jump 20# (for a number) you are pretty far down the curve. Course you need to have an accurate instrument used properly!

On what you squirt in your carbs for attempting to start the engine for whatever reason, not associated with this test, use Sea Foam Aerosol...Walmart and auto parts stores carry it...red label, white pint can, about $7. SF contains naptha, alcohol, and light mineral oil which your 2 stroker needs for internal lube that a lot of other products don't contain and it will start and squirts will keep it running when used for testing....like when you are troubleshooting a dead engine and want to know if you chase spark or gas.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,289
Reed valves and carburetors have bothing to do with compression in the cylinder.---------When piston is at the bottom of the stroke the ports are WIDE OPEN.-----Compression does not start till exhaust ports are blocked by piston going to TDC.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,961
In theory having the carbs open allows the crankcase to inhale better thus transferring a denser charge thru the intake ports and helping in higher compression numbers. It is also true the exhaust ports are still open after the intake ports close, so any increase in air could still bleed down. It does no harm to open the carbs on a compression test
 

richardlee

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
49
Thanks for all the great advice. I am fairly new to outboards but am learning a lot. This motor is mounted on a 18 ft Starcraft Supersport. My net cost for boat, motor, and trailer was $50. I bought a second motor that I sold. I have pics somewhere on the Starcraft forum. If I have time, I might post them here. The boat was totally dismantled and I have put the whole thing together--new floors, transom, etc. now concentrating on engine. Like I said earlier it runs strong. The brake cleaner was advice from a mechanic at a local boat shop. I have used SF as well. Put some in gas and it sure smoked for a while. I am using the choke button. Need to check to see if the solenoid is working.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,558

There is "tell" of it being used by Ollie Evinrude back in the day. My recollection is not whether or not he had it invented, just that he used it. Part of the reasoning was the oil but the rest was cleaning up carbon in engines that ran up there in the Northern climates and did a lot of trolling. I hadn't heard of it nor used it prior to joining this forum but in looking at the replies from "big guns" and others on the site seemed like the thing to investigate. The term "Decarb" I think was invented here and googling the word is the easiest way to see what it is and what it does. Otherwise check the subject in the archives herein. Haven't been without it since in all my engines, marine, farm, and highway.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,961
The Engine Cleaner that OMC used to market in the 60s till about the late 70s was leap years better than Seafoam or any of the current decarb sprays.
 

merc850

Commander
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
2,026
Mercury sells Power Tune which is an engine/parts cleaner that will start an outboard and works as a penetrating oil too.
 

richardlee

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
49
Another question about compression testing. Warm engine or cold engine. I always tested cars cold. Some suggest warm on outboards. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,289
Does not matter cold or warm.---Throttle position does not matter on that Mercury 2 stroke either.
 
Top